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  • 2ManyGuns

    Revolver's, get one, shoot the snot out of it!
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    I know there was a thread where I had posted some pictures of the mobile shop work "station" I built for my table saw, router and miter saw, but I could not find it. So I'm posting some updates here. This is still very raw, and built from ALL upcycled lumber. I have purchased screws, tite bond iii glue, a pocket hole jig and some other items. The cabinets are not perfect, but the wood was free! You can also see the still unfinished sharpening station I built and posted in that other thread. To many things going on and not enough time.

    Shop 1.jpg


    The above is a suspended (1/2 " all thread) shelf/cabinet with sliding doors, this is in the rough stages and built to carry a very heavy load
    for storing tools and supplies. It is roughly 8' L X 21" D X 15 1/2" H interior dimension. The "shelves" are plywood resting in rabbets, glued and screwed.
    The faceplate is made from 2X4 with 3/8" parallel routed dadoes to act as tracks for the 3, 1/4" plywood sliding doors. The 2 x4's were badly twisted,
    I straightened and glued and screwed into place. The screws will get filled and everything will get painted. Then I will move tools into the cabinet.

    Shop 2.jpg


    This smaller cabinet is similar, except it is made from 3/4" plywood scraps I had. I recessed it so I would have room for my new Ridgid sliding compound miter saw.

    Shop 3.jpg


    The new sliding compound miter saw it can make up to 70 degree cuts!!! This was on sale at Home Depot, the saw was $439 plus tax with free shipping and free saw base, normally $229! The saw was dead nuts on out of the box. I had been planning on buying another brand that was about $400 more, but having been more than satisfied with the Ridgid table saw I decided to go for it. The only problems were with the base, it was out of spec and one tube was out of round. Nothing that could not be fixed, the out of round tube was straightened with some channel locks and a file to deburr things a bit. As well as a pipe clamp to move the tubes about a 16th on an inch, nothing major, just some extra time. I have already leveled the extensions perfectly. This should make some projects much faster.
    Target Sports
     

    2ManyGuns

    Revolver's, get one, shoot the snot out of it!
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    Jan 31, 2010
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    Today was spent making a piece of shop furniture. Once again made from recycled/upcycled materials. This is a mobile assembly/storage table. The top is hinged so I can store items inside.

    shop furniture 1.jpg
    shop furniture 2.jpg


    The top is made from pine tongue and groove that I harvested from a house being torn down a number of years ago. I ripped the tongue and groove and glued it up to make a top. This was meant to be rustic looking.
     

    Greenzilla80

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    I'm nearing the end of a garage overhaul myself and am at the final stage of building a work bench/area. Did you just run 1x4's under that top and glue/screw it all together? Does it seem sturdy enough to beat on with a hammer? I was thinking about doing something similar with 2x4's pressed together like a cutting board.
     

    2ManyGuns

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    This is not made for heavy pounding on with a hammer, but light assembly and storage. In the near future I plan to build a more durable top for a table. I have a large number of oak flooring slats recovered from the same house that I got the pine tongue and groove. My intentions are to rip this down, and glue it up into a heavy, sturdy top. I really have no need for something this heavy, but I want to make something like this. No complicated joinery in this build, butt joints, pocket holes and Titebond III. I did build the frame for heavy use, just not the current top.

    @ Axe55, thanks. Just a quick photo and a rush job. Much of the wood had twists and this made working with it difficult. I wound up only being 1/16 out of square. I had to use many pipe and "F" clamps to square this up. I do not have a jointer, I didn't even bother with ripping most of the cladding.
     

    Axxe55

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    Lost in East Texas Elhart Texas
    This is not made for heavy pounding on with a hammer, but light assembly and storage. In the near future I plan to build a more durable top for a table. I have a large number of oak flooring slats recovered from the same house that I got the pine tongue and groove. My intentions are to rip this down, and glue it up into a heavy, sturdy top. I really have no need for something this heavy, but I want to make something like this. No complicated joinery in this build, butt joints, pocket holes and Titebond III. I did build the frame for heavy use, just not the current top.

    @ Axe55, thanks. Just a quick photo and a rush job. Much of the wood had twists and this made working with it difficult. I wound up only being 1/16 out of square. I had to use many pipe and "F" clamps to square this up. I do not have a jointer, I didn't even bother with ripping most of the cladding.
    Job well done IMO. I like it!
     

    2ManyGuns

    Revolver's, get one, shoot the snot out of it!
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    Thanks, I am very much a novice. This, much like painting( I detest painting!!) has been crucial to teaching me patience. Most of my life I was very impetuous. I do not mind having to find solutions to problems, it is satisfying. Besides, I am continuously learning new techniques to accomplish projects. It is also gratifying to create something from what others consider trash material.
     

    etmo

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    My intentions are to rip this down, and glue it up into a heavy, sturdy top.

    This is a great idea. IMO, heavy, sturdy tops are underrated. Because they're so massive, they absorb vibration (which includes sound), so the work you put in to pounding gets transferred into the work, not into moving the bench around, and not into making loud noises.

    I finished my woodworking workbench not too long ago. Got some red maple from a friend near Shreveport and used it to build the bench. The vise chop is quartersawn pecan from Bastrop, and the drawbore pegs are riven quartersawn live oak, also from Bastrop. All these trees were felled by storms, and the wood was saved from the landfill by woodworkers.

    workbenchWithVise.jpg


    The top is 4.25" thick, 26" wide, and 90 inches long. The boards are face joined, so that the edges (which are the quartersawn surface of the board) become the work surface. That results in excellent stability and durability. This bench will be serving woodworkers for centuries.
    The top alone weighs 312 pounds.

    Next up is to build a cabinet under the bench with drawers to hold my most-used tools!
     

    2ManyGuns

    Revolver's, get one, shoot the snot out of it!
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    That is an awesome bench! My budget is very small and reserved mainly for acquiring new tools and consumables like glue, nails and screws. This is why I upcycle so much material. A thickness planer is something I wish to get in the near future.
     

    Greenzilla80

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    This is a great idea. IMO, heavy, sturdy tops are underrated. Because they're so massive, they absorb vibration (which includes sound), so the work you put in to pounding gets transferred into the work, not into moving the bench around, and not into making loud noises.

    I finished my woodworking workbench not too long ago. Got some red maple from a friend near Shreveport and used it to build the bench. The vise chop is quartersawn pecan from Bastrop, and the drawbore pegs are riven quartersawn live oak, also from Bastrop. All these trees were felled by storms, and the wood was saved from the landfill by woodworkers.

    View attachment 338581

    The top is 4.25" thick, 26" wide, and 90 inches long. The boards are face joined, so that the edges (which are the quartersawn surface of the board) become the work surface. That results in excellent stability and durability. This bench will be serving woodworkers for centuries.
    The top alone weighs 312 pounds.

    Next up is to build a cabinet under the bench with drawers to hold my most-used tools!
    That's awesome!
     

    etmo

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    Jan 25, 2020
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    Cedar Creek, Tx
    That is an awesome bench! My budget is very small and reserved mainly for acquiring new tools and consumables like glue, nails and screws. This is why I upcycle so much material. A thickness planer is something I wish to get in the near future.

    Yes, you're smart to try and get the wood where you can.

    if I'd bought the lumber for my bench....the price for that much wood from a lumber yard would be 1500? 2k? It's enough money that you'd be thinking "Maybe I'd rather take a vacation with this money...or buy a new Dillon reloading press...or..."

    A fun investment is something like a chainsaw mill. You probably already have a chainsaw and as you can see, the mill is very inexpensive. Then you just need to find trees that are coming down, and trees are always coming down for various reasons. If you're lucky you can mill the tree right where it fell, otherwise handling the log is an issue that needs to be addressed, but you'll have unlimited, free wood forever, and you'll be doing the world a favor -- keeping fallen trees out of the landfill and producing useful lumber (which you can also sell, but that's another can of worms!).
     

    2ManyGuns

    Revolver's, get one, shoot the snot out of it!
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    Most trees in my area are not really trees by definition, but scrub. Live oaks have a tendency to be "twisted", but if the really large ones were to die, I can see getting material from them due to sheer size of the trunks. You can find all kinds of stuff on construction sites, just ask first. Since I work in construction, I am finding material on an ongoing basis. A few weeks back I found 2 pcs of 1 X 6 X 16 Cedar in the trash pile, some places were damaged, and it will need some sanding, but it will make some great material for planter boxes or bird houses. The same with cedar fence offcuts.
     

    2ManyGuns

    Revolver's, get one, shoot the snot out of it!
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    Jan 31, 2010
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    I'm nearing the end of a garage overhaul myself and am at the final stage of building a work bench/area. Did you just run 1x4's under that top and glue/screw it all together? Does it seem sturdy enough to beat on with a hammer? I was thinking about doing something similar with 2x4's pressed together like a cutting board.

    Sorry, I missed where you asked how it was assembled. I ripped a piece of 2 X 4 in half, drilled some pocket holes by eyeballing it. I assembled the top, upside down, glued the first three lengths together and clamped. As it was drying, I placed the 2 X 4 pieces 3 1/2 inches from each end and let it set for an hour or so. Since I had to "splice" some short pieces in, so now I added a 1 X 4 where this joint would be, then glued, clamped and screwed the pieces, let set and continued this procedure, until I had the needed width.
     
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