Silencer Guide?

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  • Shotgun Jeremy

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    Is there a guide out there for silencer shopping? I'm trying to figure out what I'm looking at when I see all these different shapes and tricks. Here's a few questions in case any of y'all wanna just answer them yourselves:

    What's the difference between a long and a short one?
    Are there different materials used in making cans? If so-what's the difference performance-wise?
    Is a multi-cal can going to work as good as a caliber specific can?
    Are there any performance differences between screw on cans and clip on cans?
    What do they mean by "aligning" the muzzle device?
     

    azkcr

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    Dec 24, 2013
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    Long vs short is just maneuverability and weight changer. Longer the can, better sound suppression (to a point)

    Stainless steel, aluminum, titanium, and inconel are used. Lots of explaining for different materials used for different applications.

    Multi cal can will do fine. 308 can will suppress a 223 within ~5db of a 233 specific can.

    Main difference between QD vs threaded is that by using a muzzle brake QD mount, it acts as a first "blast baffle" that takes the blast and is cheaper than the $900 can and can be replaced. Also ease of swapping platforms.Another reason I am partial to my QD mounts is that the ratchet design helps keep the can from unscrewing. I've read a lot of ppl having their threaded can loosen a little. That will eventually cause a baffle strike.

    Not aligning the muzzle device. You need to be worried about the threads on the barrel being concentric to the bore. The purists will tell you to take the barrel and have the threads redone.

    Your best bet is googling all these questions and spending a bit of time reading in depth on each.

    I STRONGLY SUGGEST YOU DO NOT PURCHASE A SUPPRESSOR.
    I did and now I am waiting on 2 form4s and in the process of two form2s.
    It's expensive.
     

    1slow01Z71

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    Jun 24, 2012
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    Kyle
    Long vs short is just maneuverability and weight changer. Longer the can, better sound suppression (to a point)

    Stainless steel, aluminum, titanium, and inconel are used. Lots of explaining for different materials used for different applications.

    Multi cal can will do fine. 308 can will suppress a 223 within ~5db of a 233 specific can.

    Main difference between QD vs threaded is that by using a muzzle brake QD mount, it acts as a first "blast baffle" that takes the blast and is cheaper than the $900 can and can be replaced. Also ease of swapping platforms.Another reason I am partial to my QD mounts is that the ratchet design helps keep the can from unscrewing. I've read a lot of ppl having their threaded can loosen a little. That will eventually cause a baffle strike.

    Not aligning the muzzle device. You need to be worried about the threads on the barrel being concentric to the bore. The purists will tell you to take the barrel and have the threads redone.

    Your best bet is googling all these questions and spending a bit of time reading in depth on each.

    I STRONGLY SUGGEST YOU DO NOT PURCHASE A SUPPRESSOR.
    I did and now I am waiting on 2 form4s and in the process of two form2s.
    It's expensive.
    Ill expand a little bit on this.

    If volume stays constant the longer can will be more quiet.

    Shooting sub caliber is no big deal usually but it depends on the material the can is made out of. If its a titanium can you dont want to put it on an AR and do mag dumps. Slow fire would be fine but check with the manufacturer when in doubt. Also shooting sub caliber doesnt always mean it will be louder, most times yes. And by louder usually youre talking a decibel or two which isnt really intelligible with the hear. In the case of the specwar the 7.62 is actually a db quieter than the 5.56 when shooting 223 so there are exceptions to the rule.

    Now is the best time ever to buy a QD can now that the SWR ASR and Silencerco MAAD system is out. Either one will serve you very well. Ill have my 7.62 specwar in hand shortly if you want to check it out. Since youre here in central texas swing by silencershop to look at the choices in person.

    As far as threading goes, having a square shoulder is just as important as having concentric threads. For this reason for my precision bolt gun work I prefer to get mt threads cut by a local smith I trust rather than buy a factory threaded barrel. I just dont trust factory threads after reading multiple threads on baffle strikes and poor accuracy. It doesnt take much ammo and heartache to make up the cost of getting the barrel threaded.

    If youve got an idea of when you want to buy, what youre going to suppress and how much you want to spend I believe we can help you narrow your choices. As said above its addicting, I started out with two cans and am now into the double digits on my schedule A. Theyre a ton of fun as are SBRs.
     

    Shotgun Jeremy

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    I REALLY like the honeybadger 300 BLK design and want to do that as my first build. How hard is it to permanately attach a can to a short barrel so I only need one tax stamp? What is required to make it be considered a permenant attachment?

    Sent from my SGH-S959G using Tapatalk 2
     

    1slow01Z71

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    Jun 24, 2012
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    Kyle
    Itll have to be welded or pinned just like a regular muzzle device. Id highly recommend just paying the stamp on the lower. A technical honeybadger even with a can permanently atrached wpuld still be an SBR unless you used one of the really long cans(9") which kind of defeats the purpose at that point. The stock for the honeybadger costs 400 by itself so keep in mind youre going to have a lot of money tied up in one. Plus what happens if you need to send in the can for servicing?
     

    Renegade

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    Mar 5, 2008
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    Texas
    I REALLY like the honeybadger 300 BLK design and want to do that as my first build. How hard is it to permanately attach a can to a short barrel so I only need one tax stamp? What is required to make it be considered a permenant attachment?

    Sent from my SGH-S959G using Tapatalk 2

    It needs to be silver soldered or welded or pin welded. For $200 it is not worth it. You would only want to go this route if SBR is not legal in your state of residence. That is not an issue in Texas.
     

    Shotgun Jeremy

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    So it'd be easier just to make a SBR with the over hanging quad rail, and...screw the silencer on? Is there a more solid option? I don't think a snap on would work, and I've been reading from more sources saying the screw ons tend to loosen up easily. Will red thread lock fix this?

    Sent from my SGH-S959G using Tapatalk 2
     

    Renegade

    SuperOwner
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    1   0   0
    Mar 5, 2008
    10,806
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    Texas
    So it'd be easier just to make a SBR with the over hanging quad rail, and...screw the silencer on? Is there a more solid option? I don't think a snap on would work, and I've been reading from more sources saying the screw ons tend to loosen up easily. Will red thread lock fix this?

    Sent from my SGH-S959G using Tapatalk 2

    I would build it like an MP5SD - the silencer just screws on. An O-ring on the shoulder locks gasses and provides enough pressure to prevent unscrewing.
     

    Shotgun Jeremy

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    I'm gonna have to go see if I can find a tear down of the mp5sd to see what you're talking about. I think I know, but I wanna be sure. I've always liked the looks of that gun to. I guess the honeybadger is kinda like an american version of that. Lol


    Sent from my SGH-S959G using Tapatalk 2
     
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