Synthetic motor oil?

[M. Sage]

It DOES use an additive package ... it just uses an elongating chain to provide the multi-viscosity. It still has moly, zinc, etc. additives to act as wear additives. Long term lab testing shows that they are expended in the oil over time.

I know they use anti-wear additives (and additives to keep your gaskets and seals soft longer, and detergents...), but I was referring to viscosity modifiers to make it multigrade.

I think their long changes is due to their service plans giving away oil changes, well... to some degree. The oil itself will go that long, with regular filter changes. The key is the filter change interval.

Yeah, to a large degree it is that. That and most Euro customers just hate taking their car in for repair. What's supposed to be 15K turns into 20+ in a hurry...

I wonder if the fact that my car holds 9 quarts of oil has anything to do with it, lol....

Increased capacity is mostly for the increased cooling that it imparts, hence the air cooled engine carrying 10 quarts - they're actually oil-cooled. More oil = cooler oil. It will help affect the lifespan of the oil to a degree, but the overstressed nature of most modern Euro engines will offset that small side benefit.

 

[ZX9RCAM]

Increased capacity is mostly for the increased cooling that it imparts, hence the air cooled engine carrying 10 quarts - they're actually oil-cooled. More oil = cooler oil. It will help affect the lifespan of the oil to a degree, but the overstressed nature of most modern Euro engines will offset that small side benefit.

Agreed, although my car is water cooled.....and I do change my oil way before 15,000 miles, I could never allow my car to go that long between changes.

 

[M. Sage]

Even on water-cooled cars, the oil still helps keep the engine temperature under control. For example, lot of cars nowadays have little nozzles to shoot oil on the bottoms of the pistons to keep them cooler.

The more we stress engines by demanding more power out of less displacement using less fuel and giving off lower emissions, the more the thermal load on the engine is going to increase... The harder your cooling and lubrication are going to have to work to keep engines from breaking too soon.

 

[Big country]

I used AMSOIL at first in my 04 Ram Hemi but it got too expensive. They boasted a "25,000 mile" interval between oil change but I could not bring myself to do that.
My former 05 Durango Hemi and my current Hemi all run Wix filters and Mobil 1 full synthetic.
Wal-mart always has 5 qts of Mobil 1 synthetic for 22 or 23 dollars. That, plus a $5 Wix filter and I can change my oil to full synthetic for about $35.

That is hard to beat, plus I get the satisfaction of knowing that I did it right. I have a hand full of Jiffy Lube and Wal MArt oil change nightmare stories from firsthand experience.

I'm right there with you one of them is from when I had just turned 18 and got a job at stiffy lube the girl that I replaced had just double gasket-ed a .... I don't remember what kind of car but it popped! If you know where the Stiffy lube is in Cedar Park off of 183 then you will understand this next part. After the guy that owned the car left, he returned on foot about five minutes later. He had made it to whataburger before the engine blew! He was not happy. The girl was asked if she had the money in her pocket to replace the engine, she said no she went home to get the rest of her uniforms.

 

[robocop10mm]

I use Mobil 1 5W30 in both my vehicles. I change the filter at 3K and the crankcase/filter at 6K. I have used the Valvoline synthetic but it got more expensive than Mobil 1. I have not complaints with either.

I would rather have a sharp stick in the eye than use Pennzoil.

 

[accumack]

I have used mobil 1 for years. I have a 1995 S10 pickup that I've run the crap out of ( heavy loads rough driving) 10k between oil changes 208,000 miles going strong. I'm about to change the timing chain as it seems people have problems with them at about 200k.
I don't believe it would run this long with other oils.

 

[wayneside]

mobil 1 is good...i use that or amsoil.

 

[Kincaid]

Opinions on oil can run a thread a mile long! I've used Rotella T in 4 motorcycles, an Expedition, my 89 Porsche 911, and my wife's old Subaru wagon and have been very pleased. Inexpensive and from my reading just as good as the big dogs - which I would say Mobil 1, Amsoil and Castrol.
Don't know if we can get it down here though - anyone see Rotella T around? Made by Shell, and at one time was the Porsche fill from the factory.

 

[M. Sage]

I think that Rotella T is a commercial-grade oil used by a lot of equipment and heavy trucks, things like that, but I can't remember for sure. Should be good stuff and I haven't heard anything bad about it.

 

[Shorts]

Rotella T is well trusted in lots of circles. We use it in the Cummins. Will probable even run it in my bike.

 

[Kincaid]

Yes - but who sells it?? Haven't seen it in Sam's, WalMart or any of the O'Reilly's, etc.

 

[Shorts]

Yes - but who sells it?? Haven't seen it in Sam's, WalMart or any of the O'Reilly's, etc.

Those places should carry it. Check AutoZone

 

[Big country]

Auto Zone does have it. I've seen it at Walmart to I think.

 

[Texas1911]

I think that Rotella T is a commercial-grade oil used by a lot of equipment and heavy trucks, things like that, but I can't remember for sure. Should be good stuff and I haven't heard anything bad about it.

Shell makes good products in general.

 

[Shriker]

I own a fleet service company and we are a Shell dealer. I have used ALL types of lubricants in my 43 years. Many years of being around racing both bikes and cars...owned many cars bikes etc. We service thousands of vehicles ranging from lawnmowers and other single cylinder engines on up to very large gas and diesel engines in tractors, cranes etc.

Today, most of the mainstream manufacturers of oils are all pretty good products. Synthetic is definitely better than standard "dino" oils , but MUCH more expensive. OEM filters are NOT always superior....they are often very good choices but there are aftermarket brands that are good as well.

UNQUESTIONABLY, for most people in most typical passenger vehicles, THE most important factor with regard to engine/drivetrain lubricants is that they are regularly changed along with the filter. This is MUCH more important than what type of lubricant (within reason...a mainstream national branded OEM replacement lubricant) is actually used.

Sure, try to pick a good lubricant and a very good filter and change it REGULARLY.....the more often the better. FIT YOUR BUDGET. FIT YOUR NEED AS WELL....if you are in a high performance or some other very demanding area for your vehicle you may need a better performing lubricant .

Shell Rotella T is typically used in diesel engines but can be used in anything (have a friend or two that use it in their very high performance race engines initially because of some of the zinc and other additives ). It is a very good product , we sell quite a bit of it......it is also available at Walmart.

Hope this helps....

 

[shellshook]

Found this oil shootout test that included most discussed here....I think the most value would be the lack of wear (lubrication), but each to their own.

[URL]http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml[/URL]

 

[Texas1911]

Found this oil shootout test that included most discussed here....I think the most value would be the lack of wear (lubrication), but each to their own.

http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml[url]http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml[/URL]

I run Amsoil, but I find that test to be rather biased as the site sells Amsoil.

 

[Burt Gummer]

I run Amsoil, but I find that test to be rather biased as the site sells Amsoil.

I like Amsoil and I have used it in my Hemis many times but the cost is a pain.

 

[dee]

I used Mobil 1 in my Cobra and liked it alot. In my Dodge I use Castrol never had a problem with either.

 

[M. Sage]

I own a fleet service company and we are a Shell dealer. I have used ALL types of lubricants in my 43 years. Many years of being around racing both bikes and cars...owned many cars bikes etc. We service thousands of vehicles ranging from lawnmowers and other single cylinder engines on up to very large gas and diesel engines in tractors, cranes etc.

Today, most of the mainstream manufacturers of oils are all pretty good products. Synthetic is definitely better than standard "dino" oils , but MUCH more expensive. OEM filters are NOT always superior....they are often very good choices but there are aftermarket brands that are good as well.

UNQUESTIONABLY, for most people in most typical passenger vehicles, THE most important factor with regard to engine/drivetrain lubricants is that they are regularly changed along with the filter. This is MUCH more important than what type of lubricant (within reason...a mainstream national branded OEM replacement lubricant) is actually used.

Sure, try to pick a good lubricant and a very good filter and change it REGULARLY.....the more often the better. FIT YOUR BUDGET. FIT YOUR NEED AS WELL....if you are in a high performance or some other very demanding area for your vehicle you may need a better performing lubricant .

Shell Rotella T is typically used in diesel engines but can be used in anything (have a friend or two that use it in their very high performance race engines initially because of some of the zinc and other additives ). It is a very good product , we sell quite a bit of it......it is also available at Walmart.

Hope this helps....

I just want to add that most of the problems I'm seeing with oil here in TX are sludged-up engines. Good synthetic is a lot more resistant to sludge than any dino every could be. Changing oil more often will help on most engines, but engines like the VW/Audi 1.8T and other over-stressed European car engines will sludge up with dino oil unless you change it weekly...