Walk in Vault Installer in Dallas Area...

[TexasRedneck]

Personally, I'd run. Talked w/'em when I was building this house 6 years ago. Got everything but straight and consistent answers from the guy - different response it seemed every time I spoke w/him. I finally gave up and got my deposit refunded - even that took several weeks and multiple phone calls.

But don't just take my word for it:

[url]http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/archive/index.php/t-51174.html[/URL]

[url]http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/archive/index.php/t-42509.html[/URL]

[url]http://www.ripoffreport.com/Gun-Shops/Sportsman-Steel-Safe/sportsman-steel-safes-kevin-ha-amc8d.htm[/URL]

[url]http://www.ripoffreport.com/Guns-Ranges/Sportsman-Steel-Safe/sportsman-steel-safe-company-b957b.htm[/URL]

[url]http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2669250[/URL]

YMMV....but be careful.

 

[F350-6]

I'm kind of late on this thread, but if it were me, I'd be looking into a safe room rated for tornadoes. They're typically tied into the foundation better and built to withstand flying debris after your house is gone. I'm guessing these types of rooms will be easier to find, and will probably suffice for what you want. You'll just need to either change the door or add the appropriate locking mechanism. Slight modification may be required if you're wanting to withstand a certain caliber, but I'm guessing the door will be the biggest issue.

As for finding the perfect material, I've got access to tools that can cut through anything you can imagine, including a chainsaw that can cut through solid concrete. The questions is what are the odds the bad guys will have the proper tools with them to cut into your room.

You can find some very inexpensive humidity monitors to keep an eye on things while you decide on a dehumidifier. Other things to keep in mind, electric plugs in the room, landline phone service in case the cell phones don't work inside (including after a storm where cell service is down), bottled water / snacks just in case, and possibly some way to see outside the room if you find the need to lock yourself in there.

 

[kerryp]

I can tell you that the fiberglass BR wall board is NOT easy to just cut with a recipro saw. It would take a good long time to get through the sheetrock and the wall board.

With that being said, it is mainly used for BR requirements and if you are only building a safe, you probably don't need it. If you intend to use it as a safe room then its a good idea, but make sure you look at the ratings because there are different levels. In the projects I specify, we rarely go over Level III. Also, it is not cheap.

Ratings: http://www.protectivestructures.com/UL752specification.htm

For penetration resistance, we use expanded metal that is screwed to the studs, with sheetrock over the top of that. Example: http://www.mcnichols.com/products/expanded/flattened/

Fire resistance would depend on what you are wanting, but you could do double layer sheetrock for 2-4 hour resistance depending on the thickness of the sheetrock. That would be all walls and ceiling. Also ,ake sure you don't use the new Chinese drywall that is on the market, it is causing major issues. Here is good info on sheetrock:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drywall

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firewall_(construction)

What type of floor do you have? If its concrete, you are good to go, if its wood floor on pilings, etc, that is another consideration of how you will make that fire resistant. It wouldn't do much good to go fire resistant on all walls and ceiling and have the fire come up through the floor.