What have you done to your vehicle lately?

[1911'S 4 Me]

Put on new registration sticker.

 

[Brains]

Same issue on my Jeep. Inspection had two "not ready codes". Driving 10 miles cleared one. Could never find exactly HOW to clear the other but it mentioned from a cold start, drive 5 miles between 30-45mph. Yes, how will I do that with stop signs on residential streets? I tried and never cleared it then read where you can still pass an inspection with 1 not ready code (two on some older models). I passed due to that caveat and I should check to see if the one code cleared since it's been 3 months.

I'll never disconnect my battery within a month of getting an inspection.

If you're curious on what they are and how they work, read on. If not, skip this post

There are 7 "readiness" monitors (on gasoline vehicles) that in a perfect world would always be in the "PASS" state. These monitors run on various schedules, and require certain sets of operating conditions for the test to run to completion. The reason you're allowed one in a "NOT READY" state is because the EVAP performance monitor is notoriously difficult to hit in any normal drive cycle.

The 7 monitors are:

• Catalyst performance
• Heated Catalyst
• Evaporative (EVAP) Emission System
• Secondary Air System (if equipped)
• Oxygen Sensor
• Oxygen Sensor Heater
• EGR (older vehicles) / Variable Valve Timing system (newer vehicles)

Some of these will pass quickly after turning the key, but have been deemed important enough to have a dedicated monitor that will fail you on an inspection. The O2 sensor heater test is basically immediate - if it draws current, it's deemed to be working. Others your vehicle may not even have, like a secondary air injection system, which means those tests are always in the PASS state. Some other tests require a certain drive cycle (or multiples of drive cycles), like cold starting the vehicle, idle for some period, accelerate at some specified rate, cruise at some speed for some duration, then coast for some duration, then idle again.

The reason there are separate monitors vs. just relying on a code being set, is that trouble codes by design are diagnostic and can be cleared to see if they return. Trouble codes are the result of the computer's continuous tests - they run all the time. These OBD monitors run non-continuously, each waiting for a certain set of conditions. Clearing the codes naturally resets all of these monitors to not ready, because there's no way to know which ones may still be valid and which won't. The active trouble codes, monitor conditions and results are held in memory, and are not stored to permanent flash. So just like clearing codes with a scan tool, removing power from the ECM resets everything and you start from scratch.

 

[Lonesome Dove]

Well I thought I was going to post the first start up of my 65 after a very long sitting apon jack stands but I can't seem post a video. Oh well after watching it it's kinda imbarrasing anyway. But it did start so I'm

 

[Sam7sf]

Hit a pot hole while the ford driver behind me was scared of it. Chevy luv alignment.

 

[The Dude]

Latest work was a simple oil change on my Ram. Ordered a Fumoto drain valve thats going on the next change.

 

[southtexaspilot]

Rigged up a new canopy latching system. Old one used a buckle to hold the latching arm closed. Couldn’t be closed when parked. Bugs, water, and whatever else could get in the cockpit when parked. Now she can be locked with an allen key. New latch is a cam design and much more of a positive locking mechanism.

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[Lonesome Dove]

Installing some new new brake components as I get them.

 

[Lost Spurs]

I fixed the transmission leak on the suburban.

To recap, I had a coolant leak on the side tank of the radiator on the drivers side. It leaked for several months. I finally purchased a radiator from Rock Auto. I opted for the 1-1/4 inch core. Install was fairly easy with basic hand tools. No lift required. Topped off the coolant with a fresh 50/50 mix of GM coolant. After driving it home I noticed a trans fluid leak from the cooler on the passenger side.

Last night I tore back into it. What ended up leaking was the fitting for the trans cooler lines into the radiator. It seems this particular unit is set up for both the flare style line and the clip in one's. The clip in fitting needed to be tightened into the radiator as it was shipped loose.

Easy 10 min fix to tighten and clean. Trans fluid looked to still be at a good level.

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[Darqhelmet]

Had all four cats stolen off of it in the work parking lot. Which no one saw, the cameras didn’t see and I can go **** myself because it’s going to be months for the replacement parts to get in.

 

[TheDan]

Installing some new new brake components as I get them.

I like how the shock tower brace makes a nice tool tray.

 

[OutlawStar]

Looking in various market places for an old fixer upper for a novice wrencher like myself is just so frustrating. Prices are still wildly overinflated or I just have a horrible misconception about used car prices. How a rolling chassis "project car" can still somehow be $10,000, and a running and driving example be $17,000 is just insane to me. A 200,000 mile 20 year old car is also $9,000. I just want something kinda cool, kinda fun, something to occupy a weekend slowly repairing stuff, and everywhere I look its a tens of thousands of dollars venture. Seems like I missed the days of a $2000 beater/barn find to polish and be proud of.

 

[Vaquero]

I'll keep my eyes peeled.

 

[TheDan]

Looking in various market places for an old fixer upper for a novice wrencher like myself is just so frustrating. Prices are still wildly overinflated or I just have a horrible misconception about used car prices. How a rolling chassis "project car" can still somehow be $10,000, and a running and driving example be $17,000 is just insane to me. A 200,000 mile 20 year old car is also $9,000. I just want something kinda cool, kinda fun, something to occupy a weekend slowly repairing stuff, and everywhere I look its a tens of thousands of dollars venture. Seems like I missed the days of a $2000 beater/barn find to polish and be proud of.

give it a few months...

 

[Lost Spurs]

Aaaaaannnnnnddddd the suburban gave up the ghost. I finally got the radiator and the bonus trans fluid leak fixed. Packed the family up this morning to head to Surfside Beach. I noticed that is sounded like it was starting to knock about 45 min from the beach.

We ended up making it fine using denial as a form of mechanical bandaid. When it was time to leave we went for it. Now I am sitting at some filling station on the west side of Houston. Been here since 5pm. (9pm at time of post).

We hail from B/CS. I was able to call a buddy to come down and pick up my wife, my two youngest and my oldest. They are now back at home. My wife grabbed the wagon and is half way back to get me and my second oldest.

The Indian fellers here at the filling g station said the truck will be fine here until tomorrow. I'll find a truck and trailer in the morning and come get the suburban.


I can honestly say, there was no sign of severe mechanical failure being on the menu. Small things, sure. Not like this though.

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[Eastexasrick]

Not a lot of barns anymore. And even less with a decent builder in it. I got a 73 F250 highboy in a barn find, well a pasture, in 2001. LOTS of rust but a good frame and running gear. Unfortunately, that was about 21 years ago, 70s trucks were a dime a dozen. I still see a few buildable out in East Texas but with the internet its kinda easy for the owner to get an over inflated idea of the value. Most cars from the 80s and 90s up don't hold up well and have horrible electronics. Early 2000 trucks or jeeps are fertile possibilities.

Check Facebook Market place regularly, if you can cruse the rural areas around you, and be patient, it's out there.

 

[Brains]

Damn, Spurs... that stinks. What year is the 'burb?

 

[Lost Spurs]

Damn, Spurs... that stinks. What year is the 'burb?

2012. I got it for a song and have put a grip of miles on it. I am going to yank it appart and decide what direction to go. It started and ran as needed to load and off load. Sounds like a rod but I am unfamiliar with the 5.3 failure points. It still runs smooth, just sounds like you are banging the block with a hammer.

Young me says 6.0 (or whatever the next size up). Might as well do cheap long tubes. Old me says check the 5.3 reman prices. Cheap me says rebuild kit with an RV cam or whatever.

I got it home this afternoon. 21 hours from dead to at the shop. My tow rig was the victim so I had to rent a 15ft uhaul and car trailer. The truck fit fine (like 2 inches left) but was probably a trite over weight on the trailer.

The kids had a blast on the recovery. 15 gallons of fuel and $260 for the rental with insurance and miles (158 round trip)

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[Brains]

You can wipe out the rod bearings pretty fast if it ran low on oil, or was otherwise oil starved. Rod bearing clearance is super tight, spec is like .0006" to .0025 I think? Been there done that way back when, I was 1.5 qt. low and spun a bearing doing a rip down I-10. If that's the case, the mains usually live, and if you're so inclined you can usually do a ghetto refresh and just swap the rotating assembly with a take-out set. Being an internally balanced rotating assy. makes it pretty much just swapping parts. Maybe scuff the cylinder walls. Chance you could get the parts cheap or free, call up a few LS shops and see what is sitting around collecting dust.

Truck looks really clean, definitely worth putting it back on the road. If you want more power, check out Trick Turbo up in Wichita Falls. Ricky will defintely get you set up.

Boys look like they love a good adventure. Good memories, kids always remember these little trips.

 

[Eastexasrick]

mgYou can wipe out the rod bearings pretty fast if it ran low on oil, or was otherwise oil starved. Rod bearing clearance is super tight, spec is like .0006" to .0025 I think? Been there done that way back when, I was 1.5 qt. low and spun a bearing doing a rip down I-10. If that's the case, the mains usually live, and if you're so inclined you can usually do a ghetto refresh and just swap the rotating assembly with a take-out set. Being an internally balanced rotating assy. makes it pretty much just swapping parts. Maybe scuff the cylinder walls. Chance you could get the parts cheap or free, call up a few LS shops and see what is sitting around collecting dust.

Truck looks really clean, definitely worth putting it back on the road. If you want more power, check out Trick Turbo up in Wichita Falls. Ricky will defintely get you set up.

Boys look like they love a good adventure. Good memories, kids always remember these little trips.

For sure. I remember like it was yesterday, 1965, Mom tossed a rod in the 58 Plymouth. We were in BFE California. Walked15 miles to an outpost called Camp Connell. I got to play pin ball for about 5 hours while we waited for a wrecker from Angles Camp to tow us to the nearest town with a place to stay.

 

[Lonesome Dove]

Looking in various market places for an old fixer upper for a novice wrencher like myself is just so frustrating. Prices are still wildly overinflated or I just have a horrible misconception about used car prices. How a rolling chassis "project car" can still somehow be $10,000, and a running and driving example be $17,000 is just insane to me. A 200,000 mile 20 year old car is also $9,000. I just want something kinda cool, kinda fun, something to occupy a weekend slowly repairing stuff, and everywhere I look its a tens of thousands of dollars venture. Seems like I missed the days of a $2000 beater/barn find to polish and be proud of.

Get a drone and search the surrounding areas off the beaten path. Seriously!
Classics have doubled and then some in the past 5 years.