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WTB Colt Commander hammer

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    JimBobKelley

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    Does anyone have a blued Colt Commander hammer they want to part with? I have looked into ordering one and they are all back ordered until at least the middle of October.

    It must be Colt. I want the pistol to keep the pistol all Colt made parts. I have a 1950 Colt LW Commander and the hammer is dropping to half cock when the slide is released. The mainspring, seer and disconnect have all been replaced and the hammer looks very worn on the contact points. This is the last thing I can think of. I'd rather not take it to Ed Vandenberg just yet and have the wait on it to be returned.
    Hurley's Gold
     

    SR9TEX

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    Ahh sorry about that, if I come across what your looking for I will give you a shout again.
     

    Acera

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    The 'High Caliber' Gun show is in Pasadena this coming weekend, you might check it out. They usually have some parts guys there. Also there are other gunsmiths that might be able to fix that problem.
     

    JimBobKelley

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    The 'High Caliber' Gun show is in Pasadena this coming weekend, you might check it out. They usually have some parts guys there. Also there are other gunsmiths that might be able to fix that problem.

    That's a bit of a drive but I may just do that. Ed is one of the only smiths I know that is worth a hoot. I am unaware of others. I think all I really need is a diagnosis and from there I hope it's just a parts replacement issue instead of a problem that actually requires a smith. I have measured all the points on the hammer where it makes contact and they are not within specs from the info I have found.

    I wish I lived closer to some of you that have a "more gooder" knowledge of the 1911. I know what I am looking at but lack the experience most of you have.
     

    Army 1911

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    You might just need more tension on the left leaf of the sear spring. That is the one that tensions the sear. Also the center could affect it. Ideal is even weight on those to leaves. Try that first.
     

    Army 1911

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    You might just need more tension on the left leaf of the sear spring. That is the one that tensions the sear. Also the center could affect it. Ideal is even weight on those to leaves. Try that first. Replacing sears and hammers can require refitting or replacing the thumb safety.
     

    JimBobKelley

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    You might just need more tension on the left leaf of the sear spring. That is the one that tensions the sear. Also the center could affect it. Ideal is even weight on those to leaves. Try that first.

    I did try that on the original and nothing. I put in the one from my govt model that I know works and same result. I replaced the sear, disconnect and sear spring with the ones from my govt model and nothing. I then replaced all of the before mentioned with new parts. Everything functions fine but hammer still falling to half cock. I also put these new parts into my govt model and they all worked great. After all of this I did some more research and found the measurements/tolerances of the contact points on the hammer which I believe are .20 if my memory is correct and mine measured .178 I think. This tells me it's the hammer, which may need to be fitted to my pistol. I would take this to a smith but I really don't want to pay for just a parts swap. I'm not wanting a trigger job or anything I just want it to function properly. I think this pistol may have been to "bubba's gun shop" for a trigger job and this is why I am having issues. I just realized I never did put the original parts in my govt to test them out.

    I think I am going to post this in the handgun thread and get responses there before I get called on it. thanks for the suggestions Army, I greatly appreciate them.
     
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    Acera

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    That's a bit of a drive but I may just do that. Ed is one of the only smiths I know that is worth a hoot. I am unaware of others. I think all I really need is a diagnosis and from there I hope it's just a parts replacement issue instead of a problem that actually requires a smith. I have measured all the points on the hammer where it makes contact and they are not within specs from the info I have found.

    I wish I lived closer to some of you that have a "more gooder" knowledge of the 1911. I know what I am looking at but lack the experience most of you have.

    Well John Dixon is usually there with a small booth fixing 1911s and he is every bit as good as Ed, better in most regards as those are the only guns he works on. Might get it fixed by him right there as you walk the show. If not, call him as he lives across the street from the show and might fix it while you are in the area. It's about the same distance from Spring to the show or Ed's shop, and you might only have to make the drive once this way.
     

    JimBobKelley

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    Well John Dixon is usually there with a small booth fixing 1911s and he is every bit as good as Ed, better in most regards as those are the only guns he works on. Might get it fixed by him right there as you walk the show. If not, call him as he lives across the street from the show and might fix it while you are in the area. It's about the same distance from Spring to the show or Ed's shop, and you might only have to make the drive once this way.

    Thank you very much for that. It looks like my weekend plans need to be adjusted.
     

    Shorts

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    If you haven't already check/post on 1911forum.com too. Many 'smiths sell the removed stock parts to purge their parts boxes after a number of custom builds. Unfortunately I don't have a spare, just the one currently on mine so I can't help you there. But I will keep my eyes peeled and I'll either grab it or let you know where to find it.
     

    JimBobKelley

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    If you haven't already check/post on 1911forum.com too. Many 'smiths sell the removed stock parts to purge their parts boxes after a number of custom builds. Unfortunately I don't have a spare, just the one currently on mine so I can't help you there. But I will keep my eyes peeled and I'll either grab it or let you know where to find it.

    Thank you very much Shorts. I just got home and took some pictures of the hammer where it makes contact with the sear. You will notice the lack of "teeth" on the bottom edge. It looks as if they were worn/filed off. I am very confident this is what is causing my issue.
     

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    Shorts

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    Wowee, the sear engagement (full cock) notch is really rounded off.

    I am looking at my Kuhnhausen manual now and it states minimum service height is .025". The competition hammers are as low as .018", and even .016". "This shallow engagement can be dangerous in general and service duty use".

    That the normal average for full cock engagement averages .030". But range anywhere from .025"-.035".


    You're a wise man to be getting that hammer replaced.
     

    JimBobKelley

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    Wowee, the sear engagement (full cock) notch is really rounded off.

    I am looking at my Kuhnhausen manual now and it states minimum service height is .025". The competition hammers are as low as .018", and even .016". "This shallow engagement can be dangerous in general and service duty use".

    That the normal average for full cock engagement averages .030". But range anywhere from .025"-.035".


    You're a wise man to be getting that hammer replaced.

    Thanks for the education on measurements. I knew I would stick my foot in my mouth when I tried to remember the measurements I researched. I didn't even measure the correct notch. Now I know better. If I can only find that same hammer.
     

    40Arpent

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    JBK, i have one that came out of a Colt Officers ACP that i had Briley Mfg customize for me. It has very little use, with one small blemish in the matte bluing. If you want it, PM me your address and it's yours.
     

    JimBobKelley

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    JBK, i have one that came out of a Colt Officers ACP that i had Briley Mfg customize for me. It has very little use, with one small blemish in the matte bluing. If you want it, PM me your address and it's yours.

    PM in bound.
     
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