Bore sight?

[thequintessentialman]

What are you guys using for a bore sight? I tried one of the cartrige type and they have some inherent flaws (at least this one did). Figure I can dial it in fairly close, then fine tune at the range... the cartrige type I got was so poorley machined, the extractor pushed it to one side. It was so bad I thought the barrel was bent.

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[Sam7sf]

If a bolt action rifle at a 100 yard range I just put it in a sled, remove the bolt, look down the bore at a spot on the target, lock everything down and dial it in with maybe 6 rounds.

 

[thequintessentialman]

If a bolt action rifle at a 100 yard range I just put it in a sled, remove the bolt, look down the bore at a spot on the target, lock everything down and dial it in with maybe 6 rounds.

Have several rifles and pistols it could see use on. Only one in the lot is a bolt action. Main concern at the moment is a 30-30 lever...

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[Sam7sf]

Have several rifles and pistols it could see use on. Only one in the lot is a bolt action. Main concern at the moment is a 30-30 lever...

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Lasers are really hard to see. Like my little peepee.

I’d say use a sled and start at 50 yards.

 

[robertc1024]

Or 25 yards. I usually start there and within 2-3 rounds, have it close enough to go to 100.

 

[paknheat]

I still like to use my old collimator style bore slighter.

It’s calibrated for 25 yards though.


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[alternative]

I have used the Firefield indoors in a dark area to get the sights adjusted to paper and fine tune at the range. Have plenty of batteries for these little devils. Worked for me.

 

[zackmars]

If a bolt action rifle at a 100 yard range I just put it in a sled, remove the bolt, look down the bore at a spot on the target, lock everything down and dial it in with maybe 6 rounds.

This. Can also be done on AR's, marlins or Henrys.

 

[Lonesome Dove]

I sight in at 25 -30 yards with a 3/4" round red target sticker on my fence. With the gun in a gun vise with bolt removed. On paper and never more then 3 shots to get 2" high @ 100 yards. Fine tuning if needed per ammo is an option.

 

[TXAZ]

Lasers are really hard to see.

I bought good lasers for .30 cal, .9mm and .50.
They work well with a reflective background (such as reflective tape) in any light and are good for getting within 1-2 MOA. I have this setup in my backyard at 50 yards. The finishing touch is at the range.

 

[TxStetson]

I’ve been using this for a few years now, and it works well. Mageticly attaches to the end of the barrel and projects a green laser. Of course, it was much cheaper a few years ago.

Amazon product ASIN B007WQJCWC

 

[Gordo]

Lasers are really hard to see.

Not at night...
My neighbor's front door is 47 yards from mine, so I set up 9 feet inside my door, and aim at their door knob.
I use an El-Cheapo bore mount laser, and it never lets me down, always inside a 10" circle at 50, at the range.
A couple of shots, and I'm ready to move out to 100.
They come with many bore collets, and I've used on .223, .308, 7.62x39, and .45 acp.

 

[Lead Belly]

Not at night...
My neighbor's front door is 47 yards from mine, so I set up 9 feet inside my door, and aim at their door knob.
I use an El-Cheapo bore mount laser, and it never lets me down, always inside a 10" circle at 50, at the range.
A couple of shots, and I'm ready to move out to 100.

I like external style, too. My neighbor gets nervous when I target his front door, so I use my garage door. Give the laser a spin in the bore to ensure concentric, then split the difference of 2 spots- few inches. Hardest part is having the 3 watch batteries.

 

[CharlieWH2O]

I use the external style above. I use this target at home at 25 meters. Usually right on when I get to the range.

http://www.bobdbob.com/~deneb/doc/targets/m16a2-25m-zero.pdf

 

[CavCop]

In the Military we used the ones you put down a barrel and would rotate to get a center dot.

They worked great, but there were set cards/data, and a rope/distance to zero a number of weapon systems and different optics, some offset.

The hight of your sight plays a huge part, and it works best with a buddy or a brace.

 

[popper]

All bore sighting must be done from a very sturdy rest-biggest problem. Remove the lever and bolt. Look through barrel at a distant target. Zero scope. Reassemble and go to range. Again very sturdy rest. Shoot one. Don't move rifle. Move reticle over to the hole. Shoot again and fine tune if needed. Start @ 50 and move to 100 if you want. Cheap and easy.

 

[zackmars]

All bore sighting must be done from a very sturdy rest-biggest problem. Remove the lever and bolt. Look through barrel at a distant target. Zero scope. Reassemble and go to range. Again very sturdy rest. Shoot one. Don't move rifle. Move reticle over to the hole. Shoot again and fine tune if needed. Start @ 50 and move to 100 if you want. Cheap and easy.

You really dont need a "sturdy" rest. A simple sandbag or wood block is more than adequate

Just constantly check between the barrel and optic and you should have zero trouble getting on at 50, even 100 yards

 

[cycleguy2300]

What are you guys using for a bore sight? I tried one of the cartrige type and they have some inherent flaws (at least this one did). Figure I can dial it in fairly close, then fine tune at the range... the cartrige type I got was so poorley machined, the extractor pushed it to one side. It was so bad I thought the barrel was bent.

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I drop a laser in my rail,
zero the laser to my crosshairs,
swap scopes and
Zero to the laser then confirm with a quick group

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[Grumps21]

I used a cartridge type on my PC and it worked just fine. Those batteries are boogers though. Crappy design to not have an off switch which necessitated removing batteries, but it was cheap and it worked

 

[Moonpie]

I still use one of the old school collimeter types with the different caliber mandrels.
It’s good for getting you on paper before the first shot.
Then live fire to dial in.