What do yall use to sharpen your knives?

[KAK]

I have a smiths kit that sucks. It is a giant POS. I think it would be easier to get some multi-textured sharpening stones and do it free hand.

 

[MR Redneck]

Smiths makes a 3 stone setup that is really good. It's triangle shaped and comes with a little holder.
I have seen them at Acadamy for a decent price. Use it and you'll get good with it.

 

[robin303]

I have had this for a couple of years and got it at Target. Chef's Choice Diamond Hone Multi-Stage 110 Review

 

[Mexican_Hippie]

Fallkniven DC4

 

[cseale86]

Smiths makes a 3 stone setup that is really good. It's triangle shaped and comes with a little holder.
I have seen them at Acadamy for a decent price. Use it and you'll get good with it.

+1 i think i gave $15 for mine last year it works well and the fine stone will get a good razor sharp edge

 

[Texasjack]

The problem may not be with your sharpening tool, but with the knife (or the user).

Some steels are very hard to sharpen once they get dull. S30V is a great example. It will hold an edge for a long time, but is miserable to resharpen if you let it get dull. The vanadium carbides on the surface are extremely hard and won't let the steel get worn away by the abrasives. A lot of patience is required.

If you're not trying to sharpen exotic steel, then you might look at technique. How are you maintaining the same angle as you sharpen? Are you stropping off the wire edge? Do you clean off the knife before moving to a finer stone? How dull do you let the knife get before you sharpen it?

I've got a setup with two ceramic rods that takes care of most of my sharpening. If the blade is really dull or has a chip or something, I may touch it up on the belt grinder and then use progressively finer sandpapers (with oil) on a flat, hard surface (like the bandsaw) to work up a good edge. When you finish, a wire edge forms on the blade. It makes it feel sharp, but quickly folds over when you try to cut something. It can be removed by stropping it on a piece of leather or using a buffer. (I should say CAREFULLY using a buffer. Buffers are the most dangerous shop tools for knifemakers. If it catches the blade, it can fling it with amazing force - and always in a bad direction.)

 

[Fisherman777]

The problem may not be with your sharpening tool, but with the knife (or the user).

Some steels are very hard to sharpen once they get dull. S30V is a great example. It will hold an edge for a long time, but is miserable to resharpen if you let it get dull. The vanadium carbides on the surface are extremely hard and won't let the steel get worn away by the abrasives. A lot of patience is required.

If you're not trying to sharpen exotic steel, then you might look at technique. How are you maintaining the same angle as you sharpen? Are you stropping off the wire edge? Do you clean off the knife before moving to a finer stone? How dull do you let the knife get before you sharpen it?

I've got a setup with two ceramic rods that takes care of most of my sharpening. If the blade is really dull or has a chip or something, I may touch it up on the belt grinder and then use progressively finer sandpapers (with oil) on a flat, hard surface (like the bandsaw) to work up a good edge. When you finish, a wire edge forms on the blade. It makes it feel sharp, but quickly folds over when you try to cut something. It can be removed by stropping it on a piece of leather or using a buffer. (I should say CAREFULLY using a buffer. Buffers are the most dangerous shop tools for knifemakers. If it catches the blade, it can fling it with amazing force - and always in a bad direction.)

This is true. One day I dug out all of my knives and decided to sharpen them. I was doing well until I got to the Buck fixed blade. That is some hard steel! It took some time but I finally got it done. It'll shave now. I use a Lansky system.

 

[308nato]

I use a Lansky kit I got at Acadamy ,it has 4 different stones and a guide post for different cutting angles.
Then I have an Arkansas stone for the finishing touch.

 

[Texastransplant]

A very fine well worn wetstone and spit. Guess it's the way my Dad taught me years ago cheap and easy.

 

[kerryp]

I've used everything from old arkansas stones to diamond stones, most recently it was a Smiths two stone kit and it was mehhh, I just got this :: Spyderco Product Details :: in a couple of days ago and have been playing with it. So far I like it and it is very flexible and sharpens a lot of different things. I'm still getting used to it and the angles they use, but the edge they put on is very good so far. Here is a video on youtube that is an exerpt from the DVD they send with it.

YouTube - spyderco sharpmaker?30' or 40'

 

[WavesOfFury]

+1 For the Spyderco Sharpmaker. I just got one and let's just say there's barely any hair on my arms anymore... Haha. Got mine on Amazon for $50 as opposed to Spyderco's MSRP of $90.

 

[San Antone RR]

The SpyderCo is what I have been using for several years. I like it and keep a good edge on all of my blades.

 

[murfdog]

My vote goes to the Spyderco as well easy as 123.

Murfdog

 

[guy lemmond]

i use about everything in the way of whetstones.
i use a crock type that is about an inch in diameter for most kitchen knives.
it cleans up with comet.
for soft knives i use a two grit carborundum.
for finer steel i use a soft arkansas.
a water rock is about the least abrasive but a hard arkansas is hard to beat.
those round two grit rocks are for double bit axes.

 

[guy lemmond]

for shipfitter's chisels, a bench arkansas oil rock is best.

 

[Poink88]

If you have no problem with Harbor Freight products, these will work great.

3 Piece 2'' x 6'' Diamond Hone Blocks

Hard to beat for less than $15.00 and there are tons of 20% off coupons out there too so it can be $12.00 plus tax. I use water and a dab of dish washing liquid for easy cleanup and avoid build up.

 

[Poink88]

Arkansas oil stone, carborundum, whetstone, etc. are all good while new but they all tend to wear off and form a valley which will make sharpening difficult. The ceramic and diamond impregnated metal sharpeners are the way to go IMHO.

 

[Mexican_Hippie]

Arkansas oil stone, carborundum, whetstone, etc. are all good while new but they all tend to wear off and form a valley which will make sharpening difficult. The ceramic and diamond impregnated metal sharpeners are the way to go IMHO.

...like a Fallkniven DC3 or DC4, one side is ceramic and the other is diamond impregnated steel

Besides, if you learn to sharpen on them its easy to touch up knives "in the field".

 

[jtriron]

Yes for the Spyderco system
I have used for several years and my knifes are Sharp
But you do need to clean the stones with an abrasive cleaner such as Comet.

My vote goes to the Spyderco as well easy as 123.

Murfdog

 

[navajo]

Three grades of Arkansas stone. Soft, hard and black hard. Soft I use only for really dull and abused blades. Once learned its a life long talent.