Was told I used too much frog lube paste.

[easy rider]

Never have any problems with synthetic grease (Mobile One), and then only thinly. FL sounds like more work, less shooting.

 

[BRD@66]

Never have any problems with synthetic grease (Mobile One), and then only thinly. FL sounds like more work, less shooting.

^ this

 

[Bozz10mm]

Never have any problems with synthetic grease (Mobile One), and then only thinly. FL sounds like more work, less shooting.

A bit more work, but not less shooting.

 

[easy rider]

A bit more work, but not less shooting.

I started without you .... LOL.

 

[TheDan]

It doesn't really matter what you use; you only what a little smear of it on there.

 

[Dash Riprock]

I've never had any problems using FL. I use a heat gun to warm up the parts almost too hot to handle, then apply the paste with a small brush. Acid brushes work well. Let it cool down and wipe off the excess with a rag. It will turn rancid tho if you leave it on too thick and store the weapon for a couple of months. No experience with how it performs in the cold. I'm not a hunter and if it gets below 50°, I don't go to the range.

I did that process to one of my AR's a couple or three years ago when Frog Lube was all the rage. It was pain in the rear. I noticed after a few months that the FL had kind of gummed up all over the gun and charging felt a bit sticky. It dissipated once I shot a few rounds and things heated up but I didn't like that gooey feeling all over everything. Maybe I used too much, I don't know. I ended up cleaning it all off with M Pro7 and going back to Slip2000.

 

[Bozz10mm]

Yeah, too much.

 

[rman]

I'll never use it again.

Somehow my XDs striker froze up and it wouldn't even dent a primer.

I use G96 as my CLP now. Hoppes down the bore if it's really dirty, and slide glide on all my rails.

Sent from my SIG Sauer

 

[TheDan]

I'll never use it again.
Somehow my XDs striker froze up and it wouldn't even dent a primer.

Ideally you don't want any kind of lube on your firing pin. They can all get sticky or trap dust and dirt that will bind it.

I use G96 as my CLP now. Hoppes down the bore if it's really dirty, and slide glide on all my rails.

I love how G96 smells! What the hell do they put in it?

 

[rman]

Ideally you don't want any kind of lube on your firing pin. They can all get sticky or trap dust and dirt that will bind it.

I love how G96 smells! What the hell do they put in it?

Wrigley's or something ha

Sent from my SIG Sauer

 

[easy rider]

Ideally you don't want any kind of lube on your firing pin. They can all get sticky or trap dust and dirt that will bind it.

I love how G96 smells! What the hell do they put in it?

Don't let the tide pod eaters near it, you'll be buying more.

 

[avvidclif]

I use LSA. Still have some that followed me home in '72.

 

[acorneau]

"I'm trying to use this pipe wrench as a screwdriver and it's not working very well. Must be the pipe wrench's fault."

Bunch of Nobel Prize winners around here.

 

[easy rider]

"I'm trying to use this pipe wrench as a screwdriver and it's not working very well. Must be the pipe wrench's fault."

Bunch of Nobel Prize winners around here.

Pipe wrench? Everyone knows a crowbar works better.

 

[robertc1024]

Ideally you don't want any kind of lube on your firing pin. They can all get sticky or trap dust and dirt that will bind it.
/QUOTE]
But it be interesting with a full auto SKS - for a bit.

 

[Low_Speed]

FL works well if you apply it using the instructions that come with it. I use the paste on the barrel and the liquid on everything else.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Younggun]

"I'm trying to use this pipe wrench as a screwdriver and it's not working very well. Must be the pipe wrench's fault."

Bunch of Nobel Prize winners around here.

More like trying to use the all new better than ever pipe wrench and the pipe won't turn because I didn't apply the exact specified torque to said wrench thereby causing the threads to seize, when I could have just used a regular pipe wrench and not had any issues regardless of torque applied.

 

[vmax]

More like trying to use the all new better than ever pipe wrench and the pipe won't turn because I didn't apply the exact specified torque to said wrench thereby causing the threads to seize, when I could have just used a regular pipe wrench and not had any issues regardless of torque applied.

sounds like you needed a metric pipe wrench
use the right tool for the job!

 

[Jigo23]

Take this advice for what it’s worth from a retired Spec Ops guy, take the Frog Lube, run to the garbage can and deposit it there, never to use it again. For the best general purpose, all-weather, all-temperature CLP on a duty/carry weapon just use one of the synthetic CLP products available now, my personal preference is EEZOX. Does a great job cleaning, lubricating, and protecting from rust. It dries to the touch thereby not attracting sand, dirt, dust, powder residue yet still provides a nice smooth slick layer for the action. If you just like the more wet look, even just the ol’ tried and true combat-tested Break-Free CLP works great on any firearm. After cleaning though, wipe all parts completely down, there should only be a very very thin layer left on any parts. Use canned air to blow out excess CLP residue from hard to reach places. Again though, the EEZOX will form a DRY layer of protection, repelling particles that will otherwise stick to places you don’t want it sticking to for a smooth reliable action. In fact, once you’ve applied a few layers of EEZOX, after short range trips you can very easily just do a quick wipe down of the gun with a plain dry rag and it’ll be good to go. My only deviation is with my 1911’s. A THIN layer of grease or just RemOil along the grooves of the slide & frame doesn’t hurt to help ensure smooth cycling. Lots of high speed metal on metal action there, though EEZOX or CLP hasn’t failed there either. Just something about 1911’s tho that seem to warrant a slight touch of oil or grease

 

[Pops1955]

I use only FL. The CLP and the paste. Clean with the CLP. Lube the metal on metal with VERY THIN (almost not there) paste. My experience in all shooting conditions has been 100% fail free. Cold or hot, dirty or not, windy or calm. My after range residu level has fallen to nearly zero the longer I use it. I do not heat treat. Who has time?