What have you done to your vehicle lately?

[ZX9RCAM]

You can add it as part of the kit. I bought it through roe tactical in Irving. There are also other accessories that you can get as part of a kit


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That's why I had asked, I figured you needed to buy all the "extras", but wanted to know if anything came with it.

 

[ussoldier1984]

That's why I had asked, I figured you needed to buy all the "extras", but wanted to know if anything came with it.

I can’t remember what all comes with it and what extra I added sorry about that.


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[Ole Cowboy]

Crate engines seem pricey to me. Bound to be cheaper to do a basic rebuild on your block but with some high compression pistons and new cam.

You can save some serious bucks on crates by shopping Chev dealers and do it on a special order, paid for up front. BIG savings. You need to talk to the Parts Mgr, usually the counter guys can do little other than charge MSRP or give you a few bucks off. But a smart Parts mgr will not turn down at paid for up front special order crate and him making $250 on the deal or if he is in ti hi perf stuff he will pass it on to you at a $100 over cost if fully paid for up front.

When I was looking at dropping in a 383 into my '55 Willys to replace a tired 350. Drove my Willys around to several dealers, asked the Parts guy to come look at my rig and what I wanted to do. Scored when Parts Mgr says let me help, $100 over my cost and when you do your write up on you website tell folks where you got the motor.

 

[TheDan]

Busy week...

Most important thing I did was put up a couple more shelves and cleaned the garage. Felt really nice to have a clean garage and be a little more organized so I can move around freely and work.

Got the Abarth inspected and installed a GoPedal on it. It's a little signal processor that changes the curve of the accelerator. Kinda gimicky; not sure if I like it yet or not. The factory system is already pretty well sorted in sport mode.

In typical Italian fashion not everything on the 4C is documented properly. A lot of people in the 4C community didn't believe that you could lift the side of the car from the center to get it on four jack stands, so I made a video demonstrating as such...


After getting the car up I decided to show how I change the oil without having to take the diffuser off.


Replaced the front brake pads on the LR last night. Went pretty uneventfully but I broke the wear sensor. So now both the front and rear wear sensor wires are intentionally shorted so the idiot light doesn't stay on all the time
...and the Rover curse had to throw a curve ball at me. The front calipers are double pistons, and when I was pressing one piston in on the second caliper (first caliper went perfectly) the other piston moved out too far for me to get my clamp on, and of course I couldn't find a fucking clamp big enough. Probably because I "organized" earlier. Had to goto Walmart and by one... I should have just went strait to Walmart instead of spending time looking for my other clamps; took less time than I spent looking

 

[texasnurse]

Sabrina is getting new shoes...


Mounted and balanced ready for reinstall(all with hand tools)

Sent from my iPhone with a general disregard for the masses

 

[Shotgun Jeremy]

I've got a 1999 GMC C6500 Box Truck in the shop. All of the marker lights intermittently cut out and then come back on - only with the engine running. In addition to fuses, this truck runs circuit breakers. Faulty circuit breaker? Nope - tested fine. Faulty fuse? Nope - it looks dang near brand new. Switch going out? Nope - tore it apart, cleaned it up, re-greased it. It's in very good shape. Could it be a fluke caused by the few marker lights with a bulb out (2-bulb marker lights)? Nope - that didn't fix it.

What in the hell is going on??? So I went back to square one - something about that circuit breaker is my tell tell sign, but I'm getting a constant 13.30 volts to it, so things aren't making sense. So I hook up my power probe to my "in" line going to the circuit breaker and I wait for the lights to go out - I wound up waiting about 15 min (damn, it's good to be hourly sometimes) before the lights went out. This time I noticed that right as the lights went out, an increase in whirring came from under the hood, and the voltage increased from 13.30 to 13.60. All that over a faulty alternator! On the plus side - I guess it got the truck in the shop before it was left stranded on the side of the road somewhere.

 

[Brains]

You sure the load of the markers going away isn't the cause of the voltage increase?

 

[Shotgun Jeremy]

Yea, I'm pretty sure that right as the alternator kicks out it's extra .30, it's overloading that circuit breaker causing it to trip. I'm off lunch soon so I'll go verify that soon.

 

[outdare]

Changed the carpet and front seats in our 98 mustang convertible.

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[Shotgun Jeremy]

Looks good, Outdare.

Turns out the ground cable nut came missing off the alternator. Things working good now.

 

[grasshopperglock]

It's awesome when things go smooth.

I'm not that lucky. Sorry Suzuki fork is still leaking. Three seals later. I checked every dimension on the bottom tube except run out. The roundness of the tube. Which I don't think is the problem. Everything is straight. Nothing is bent or scratched.

Pulling the dust wipe down. You can see that the seal is leaking from between the lips and tube. It has two lips and both are letting oil pass. That'd mean the seal is too big and not sealing right. I've ran a piece of plastic up and around the seal to hopefully seat it and remove anything(That I know isn't in there) that's causing it to leak. Nada for $hit. The bottom tube might have been manufactured slightly smaller then planned. Maybe the contractor for Suzuki had a run on of out of spec stuff. Maybe I should measure the tubes from right and left and see if there's a difference...

My last option before I shoot it....is a high dollar OEM seal. Something Suzuki doesn't let be sold across the internet. The Damn dealer with the Damn dealer mark up is the only place to get it.

The aftermarket seals run about $15 for two seals. The factory seals cost three times as much.

This motorcycle needs to quit being broke.

 

[Brains]

By my math, you should have started with the factory seal. Same $ as you've spent on the three aftermarkets, and you'd ostensibly be riding by now.

 

[grasshopperglock]

By my math, you should have started with the factory seal. Same $ as you've spent on the three aftermarkets, and you'd ostensibly be riding by now.

Thank You for pointing that out, Brains. It only cost about $75 Damn dollars so far. What's another $60?

It's extra special that the bike hasn't passed 4000miles. I'm slowly becoming a Suzuki super fan. Best bike ever made. It's like riding a white stallion down a road of gold. Lined with free beer stands and women.

It's all... Like a sore dick, you can't beat it!.

 

[Davetex]

Been working on the NC700x for the last couple of weeks. I think I've finally got it where I want it for now. Here's when I got it home...Bone stock...

 

[Davetex]

Added hand guards, windscreen, handlebar risers, tail bag, LED lights, power ports, 1 12 volt and 2 USB ports, Seat Concepts seat kit, ....

 

[Davetex]

 

[Davetex]

The Seat Concepts seat is a huge improvement over the factory seat. I swear Honda can make a top shelf motorcycle, but their seats are horrible. Also the raised handle bars make long rides much easier.

Road out to Sugarloaf Mountain this morning with no complaints

 

[Davetex]

I didn't take these pictures.....Sugarloaf Mountain

 

[Davetex]

 

[Davetex]

Forgot to add a pic of the Ram Mount....