8mm Turkish Mauser build

[CanTex]

Finally completed and test fired.
UMMMMM UMMMM UMMMMM GOOD.
Started with a Turk Mauser picked up on TGT. Came with a plastic aftermarket stock and was in rough condition. Removed the stock, sights, removed 4"of barrel, Drilled n Tapped scope base, Jeweled Bolt, Fixed broken cocking handle n added piece of antler donated by a good friend. Duracoat in black, New Stock from Boyds, As no base plate, created new plate and made an internal mag to fit stock. Setup with new trigger guard, added Center Point 4x16 illuminated scope and Caldwell bi pod.

Range results are at 75 yards using military ball. Still doing a little tweaking but overall, an excellent addition to my collection.

 

[brocknchrist]

Good job... Nice work...

Live, Laugh, Love. If that doesn't work, Load, Aim and Fire. (repeat as necessary)

seek justice, love mercy, walk humbly with your God...

 

[jbcalhoun]

CanTex, very nice.

Care to elaborate on your method of jeweling bolts?

Thanks
Brad

 

[CanTex]

Hey Brad, it was quite simple. Years back I was taught to jewel metal by using a dowel with polishing paste. However that would not work on the bolt due to the curves. So, I used a Dremel bristle brush along with jewelers rouge. I just chucked the bristle brush (the cup shaped one not the wheel type) into my drill press and to keep the bristles from spreading out while I pushed down on the metal I wrapped the bristles with electrical tape to keep them from spreading.

I would suggest practice on a piece of pipe or small cylindrical metal rod to get the hang of it.

 

[jbcalhoun]

Hey Brad, it was quite simple. I just chucked the bristle brush (the cup shaped one not the wheel type) into my drill press and to keep the bristles from spreading out while I pushed down on the metal I wrapped the bristles with electrical tape to keep them from spreading.

I would suggest practice on a piece of pipe or small cylindrical metal rod to get the hang of it.

CanTex, thanks for the explanation. I have heard of using the bristle brush but wondered how you kept the bristles from spreading out. Your simple explanation of the electrical tape answered that question.

Thanks again and a very nice build!

Brad

 

[Charley]

Nice looking rifle. Interesting looking bolt handle, care to elaborate on it?

 

[CanTex]

Charley, the bolt handle had been cut (poorly) and a aftermarket turned bolt handle installed. The threads were sloppy, and the "nut" was a piece of threaded aluminum cylinder that did not lock up the bolt handle to the bolt. The threaded part did not fit flush to the "top" of the handle and the nut had been tightened using a tool that obviously was not designed for the job and was mashed up badly.

My original plan was to use the existing parts and add a little JB weld to lock it up tight. So, I shortened the threaded part to give me some extra room to work, Filed a slot into the aluminum "nut" and ground a slot in the middle of a screwdriver bit to allow me to tighten it up around the shaft. Added the JB weld and it looked fine, except for the JB weld part. As there was room, I took a piece of antler, did a little filing to make it a plug that would cover the nut and JB welded it into place, filed it flush and it looked great. Lasted for about 100 rounds then the bolt handle started to twist a little (like it did before). This is how you see it in the pictures.

I know a guy who knows a guy that has a welder, so I sent it off to work with the guy and about a week later it came back with some welding done to properly affix the bolt and handle permanent. I did a little filing, did a touch-up with some dura coat and it is now looking, and more importantly working fine.

Also, since the pictures I was able to find another Mauser in poorly condition and salvaged the base plate so I was able to remove the wooden one that I had made. It did work fine but I had concerns about feeding issues as my ability to fit a "mag well" for the rounds to ride in was a bit less than what I considered a 100 percent reliable fix. I used some sheet metal and affixed it to the wood to create the mag well but my ability to form metal objects is limited to a vice, pliers, some various dowel rods and a basic automotive body dent repair kit.

NOW I am looking for the next project. ANYONE know of some abused neglected rifles or pistols that could be donated or sold at seriously reduced prices to feed a guys addiction? I am down to the last of two revolver project for my grandkids and will be going through withdrawal before the year ends.

 

[Charley]

Project guns are where you find them. Not much help, I know, but I'm always on the lookout myself. Pawnshops after hunting season (Feburary/March) can be a time and place to pick up decent buys on butchered milsurps. Saw a couple of really trashed/bubbaed rifles at a pawnshop about 2 weeks ago. An 1895 Spanish in 7x57, and M1916 (still a '95 action) rearsenaled to 7.62 CETME. Price was $279 each. All I could do to keep from bursting out laughing.

 

[CanTex]

LOL. My last builds were a couple old .22 revolvers that needed parts as well as a good cleaning at $10 each. The 8mm that cost about 50 in trade value, a single shot 20 ga that was a gift as it had the barrel cut to just under 18" and the stock cut making overall length a bit short of legal ( it now is legal length in all areas ). Though I am not adverse to spending a bit of money on decent things, project guns by their nature should not cost more than what the gun is worth were it in pristine condition.... and should in fact come in about 1/4 of the similar piece in good condition.

I saw a couple old 10/22s that the guy indicated were pitted, damaged stocks (dinged scratched etc) and the asking was $200 each..... sad to say he came close to his asking when they sold.