DK Firearms

Bad roads and tires, are AT tires more comfortable?

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  • TxStetson

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    So far I like em. Bit on the big side for this little truck. Took my mpg down from 30 on adv to 26-27. But I took it to the mud and right when I started to slide the rear diff kicked in and those tires grabbed well.
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    Duratracs are the tires I run on my truck, and my last 3 work trucks. They definitely need to be rotated regularly or they'll wear unevenly and ride rough, and they start to sing loudly after about 50,000 miles but by that point it's time to look for more anyway.
     

    TxStetson

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    Duratracs are popular on Jeeps, but BFG KO2s continue to be the most highly rated and used tire on Wranglers...
    I ran KO2's for years but when I started working in the oilfield, all those miles on gravel and caliche roads really tears them up. Bounced around for several years trying to find the right tire with a good balance of traction on and off road and longevity. Tried the Duratracs when they started making them in 10 ply and have stayed with them ever since.
     

    Dougw1515

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    They offer a locker on 2wd models?
    That’s pretty unusual in the industry...


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    The 2 wheel electronic locker was an option for the 2014 F250 gas 2/w drive. At least the one I was considering had it. Ended up going Fx4 diesel which also has that 2 wheel lock option. Engaged it coming up a boat ramp once. Forgot it was engaged drove through the park at Coleto Creek. Everytime I made a turn I though my trailer wheels were coming off - made a hell of a racket. They're programmed to disengage above 20 mph. My 2019 F150 has that option as well.
     

    Dougw1515

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    I have a customer with a 2015 F250. It has 78k miles on it. He still has the original tires on it and they look like new. He rotates every 4k miles. I rotate between 12k & 15k.
     

    Axxe55

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    Tire rotations will add many more useful miles to your tires. Years ago, my recommendation was every other oil change was a good time to rotate the tires. Which was about 6K to 7K in mileage. Now many vehicles tell you when to change the oil! One new Dodge Ram I bought, I put almost 10K on it before it told me the oil needed to be changed! I had already changed it twice by then.

    Tires have changed. Driving habits and uses of vehicles have changed. Too many variables to factor in, but I think a tire rotation at about 5k to 7K would work just fine.
     

    Dougw1515

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    My 6.7 Power Stroke wanted the oil changed every 7k miles. the 3.5 EcoBoost hit 9k miles and I changed it. I had heard the 3.5 EB was hitting 10k before it requested a diaper change. Back in the 60's I would change oil every 3500.
     

    Axxe55

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    My 6.7 Power Stroke wanted the oil changed every 7k miles. the 3.5 EcoBoost hit 9k miles and I changed it. I had heard the 3.5 EB was hitting 10k before it requested a diaper change. Back in the 60's I would change oil every 3500.

    Oil and engine technology has changed drastically over the last thirty years or so. Engines are manufactured with much tighter tolerances and better materials and are way more efficient at getting better fuel mileage and horsepower than the older engines.

    Oil has come a long way from our grandfather's oil he used! Synthetic oils, and better additives to make it work better.

    These are my thoughts. What is acceptable for a proper oil change interval? Depends. Too many variable to factor in. But, you will never hurt an engine changing the oil more than needed. You might be changing still useful oil and spend a little more in buying oil and filters, but the engine isn't going to be harmed in any way. Now less oil changes done than needed, will have at some point, adverse affects on the engine. That's a fact. How much damage? Couldn't say or know that.
     

    F350-6

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    The latest trends are for larger wheels, which means shorter, stiffer sidewalls on the tires. You can't find info on the sidewall strenght or flex because it varies by tire size on the same tire.

    Let's say you have a truck that came from the factory with 20" wheels and 34" tires. You can buy the same 34" tires and put them on 18" wheels and the ride will improve tremendously because you now have a larger sidewall with more flex in it.

    Springs and shocks can help compensate also, but putting sidewall back on your tires is the easiest first step. I didn't put 1k miles on my 2016 before I started searching for smaller wheels. ( a one ton truck at 70 psi on 20" wheels will just about bounce you out of the lane on some roads). Air pressure makes a difference too, but you can only go so low with that.
     

    Axxe55

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    The latest trends are for larger wheels, which means shorter, stiffer sidewalls on the tires. You can't find info on the sidewall strenght or flex because it varies by tire size on the same tire.

    Let's say you have a truck that came from the factory with 20" wheels and 34" tires. You can buy the same 34" tires and put them on 18" wheels and the ride will improve tremendously because you now have a larger sidewall with more flex in it.

    Springs and shocks can help compensate also, but putting sidewall back on your tires is the easiest first step. I didn't put 1k miles on my 2016 before I started searching for smaller wheels. ( a one ton truck at 70 psi on 20" wheels will just about bounce you out of the lane on some roads). Air pressure makes a difference too, but you can only go so low with that.

    Sad to say, and it's not just the younger generations either doing it, but many people will sacrifice ride quality and function of vehicle for the sake of looks and appearance. And tires and rims being one of the main culprits in the area.
     

    pronstar

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    The latest trends are for larger wheels, which means shorter, stiffer sidewalls on the tires. You can't find info on the sidewall strenght or flex because it varies by tire size on the same tire.

    Let's say you have a truck that came from the factory with 20" wheels and 34" tires. You can buy the same 34" tires and put them on 18" wheels and the ride will improve tremendously because you now have a larger sidewall with more flex in it.

    Springs and shocks can help compensate also, but putting sidewall back on your tires is the easiest first step. I didn't put 1k miles on my 2016 before I started searching for smaller wheels. ( a one ton truck at 70 psi on 20" wheels will just about bounce you out of the lane on some roads). Air pressure makes a difference too, but you can only go so low with that.

    Especially on trucks, which have stiffer suspensions for carrying capacity, tires are responsible for small bump compliance.

    If small bumps were left to the suspension, you’ll either have a too-stiff ride, or the suspension will have to be so soft that it would be unmanageable.

    The second part of the equation is tire pressure. Truck maker recos for pressure are to ensure max load capacity...unless you drive at max load all the time, air down and enjoy a better ride.

    Load inflation tables are the industry guide to pressures. The 285-65-18 MT E-rated tires on my 1500 Silverado give me over 900 lbs of carrying capacity per axle at 35 psi...no reason at all to run anywhere near 80 psi max per the sidewall.

    Here are my Nitto MT’s with 40k on them. Rotate and rebalance every 5k miles, always at 35 psi. Even wear from tire to tire, and across the tread. I’ll put them up on Craigslist shortly, mud performance is starting to fade a bit.

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    Axxe55

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    Pronstar and F350 are hitting the nail on the head with their information about tires.

    Tires are part of the suspension system. They are a very complex part of that system as well. Changing types, or sizes, or air pressure, or other variables changes how the suspension reacts to changing road conditions.

    Typically, tires on truck and trailers that are designed to haul heavy loads, have stiffer sidewalls, and usually with thicker or more sidewall plies in those tires. Those tires usually are aired to a much higher PSI and will have a very rough ride even on smoother terrain. These types of tires are usually very poor performers in the mud and rocks.
     

    F350-6

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    .....
    The second part of the equation is tire pressure. .....

    Yes, but as I mentioned, tire pressure will only get you so far, and some folks with trucks need the additional capacity that the higher air pressure brings.


    And LOL.

    Air pressure comments coming from the guy with King shocks with remote reservoirs. Those fancy shocks help a little too ya know.

    By the way. You're missing a valve stem cap.:)
     

    pronstar

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    Yes, but as I mentioned, tire pressure will only get you so far, and some folks with trucks need the additional capacity that the higher air pressure brings.



    And LOL.

    Air pressure comments coming from the guy with King shocks with remote reservoirs. Those fancy shocks help a little too ya know.

    By the way. You're missing a valve stem cap.:)

    Oh I’ve been on the “smooth ride” bandwagon for a while LOL.

    This little half-ton on E-rated tires rides like crap with too much air pressure. But I’ll air up if I’ve got a heavy load...and I’ll air right back down when done.

    My Ram 2500 rode like absolute garbage from the dealership, 80psi in factory tires. That was when I began my quest...

    I got lucky and met a guy named Sage Carli just as he was starting his business. Today, Carli Suspension is highly regarded for Ram and Ford solid-axle vehicles.

    www.carlisuspension.com

    He used my truck to help develop valving for their 2-inch Commuter Kings. (Not enough shock valving for a heavy truck).

    But even with all of the shock technology in the world, for trucks you still need the tires to provide small bump compliance. My Ram rode like a Caddy...but it also rode like crap if I didn’t air down (42psi front and 38 psi rear on Toyo 35”.).

    I towed a 42 foot toy hauler, and also used the truck off-road when we got to our destination, so I was mucking with tire psi quite a bit. I’d run 18 psi the desert/hard pack/sand.

    I regret selling that truck


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    cajunautoxer

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    When my Pilot's factory tires were toast. I went with Continental tires and I must say the ride smoothed out a ton over factory tires. I'm sure Wally World's cheapest tire has a ride and noise level that sucks
     
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