Dillon XL650 - Review and First Rounds

[Texas1911]

I purchased a Dillon XL650 directly from Dillon and finally hammered out some rounds on it, so I figured I would do a review of the unit.

Dillon XL650

Initial Setup & Parts

The Dillon is pretty straight forward, simply follow the instructions (which are good) and put everything together. You'll need a few things like wrenches (standard), allens (come with the unit), and a ratchet (very handy). An adjustable crescent wrench would be handy if you don't own some of the bigger 7/8"+ sockets or wrenches.

Sorting out the dies on the first go-around is probably the most time consuming aspect of the entire process. Dillon has a basic how-to on their instruction packet, but I would recommend looking at a few videos on YouTube. Fortunately I have already been through this process, and saved some time in doing so. What I was not used to was the busy interface you get with a turret press. Having to spin a piece of brass around, remove index buttons, etc. and removing dies you forgot to tighten down ... all in all you'll make some bonehead mistakes, but no harm done. It's alot busier than your basic RCBS single stage.

Loading Rounds

The biggest pain in the ass on the Dillon setup is priming. I swear I could hand prime the cases faster than it takes to load the damn tube setup. Evidently I am a retard when it comes to operating this part of the machine.

Besides the priming, the auto-indexing and smooth operation just makes hammering out ammo easy! I was using Titegroup and the powder throws were all within 0.1 grains with the vast majority of them being the 4.2 grains I was looking for.

I realize what people say about the progressives being too busy for a first time reloader, but I still maintain that this is hogwash. It IS busy, but you control the entire operation. Set a list in your head similar to this:

1) Primer In #2(Push Forward)
2) Load Case into #1
3) Check For Powder Charge in #4
4) Seat Bullet onto Bell in #4
5) Charge / Seat / Crimp (Pull Op Rod Down)

I have the 3rd die setup as the powder check station, but currently I am running it off. So you could omit #3 if you absolutely trust the powder check.

Basically if you can slow down, pay attention, and work methodically you can jump on a progressive and smoke out some rounds. If you can't do this ... expect alot of squibs, overcharges, and other mishaps.

Progressive over Single Stage

If you have a handgun ... get a progressive. The single stage is a dinosaur compared to this ammo factory. I can't wait until I get this baby rocking full tilt tomorrow.

If you load precision rifle, this press is not for you. I HIGHLY recommend the RCBS Rockchucker with good dies and a detailed process.

If you have the wanton desire to put the chrome lining in your AR15 down range ... get a progressive. Lubricating the brass is about the only real difference besides some longer die setup (shouldered cases). If you have military brass and really want to hammer out rounds, look into the Dillon 1050. It has a swaging setup on it and can be configured with an automatic case trimmer.

Caliber Switching

The first time you do this you'll be wanting another 650 setup for the other primer size. It's pretty straightforward, but depends on the switch.

Going from .45 ACP to 9mm you can expect to...

- Remove the .45 Shell Plate
- Remove the .45 Die Head
- Remove the Priming System
- Change the Priming Wheel
- Change the Primer Tube Feeder
- Change the Primer Pusher
- Reinstall Priming System
- Install 9mm Shell Plate
- Install 9mm Die Head
- Install 9mm Locater Pins

After you do it once, it shouldn't take more than 10 - 15 minutes to do this.

Extras

Casefeeder ... if it works, then it is worthwhile. The 650 is really configured for the casefeeder, so inputing cases by hand is a bit of a hassle. I don't have the $300 for the setup at the moment so it'll be on pause.

Strong Mount ... I have one for the press to raise it up. It also gives it a wider birth which gives a wee-bit more stability. Frankly, if you nail the sucker down on the bench, it's not going to make a huge difference.

Die Heads / Caliber Conversions ... GET A SEPARATE DIE HEAD FOR EACH CALIBER! This is the beauty of the Dillon system. You'll only have to setup the dies once so long as your load remains the same for the various calibers.

Powder Bars / Throwers ... GET A SEPARATE SETUP FOR MAJOR CALIBERS. I have one for 9mm and one for .45, this keeps the charge weights the same and makes for faster changing between calibers.

 

[randmplumbingllc]

Have had mine for several years. LOVE IT !

Buy the extra primer tubes. Dillon sells 4 packs pretty cheap.

Casefeeder works great. You wont realize how good this press is until you have one.

Roller handle, bullet tray, and strong mount would be nice, when $ allows.

Get a spare parts kit. Even with the no bs warranty, parts wear out. Unless you don't mind watching your press sit idle for a week. You break a part, replace it from your repair kit, and call Dillon for a replacement.

You are gonna love the press. Make sure you clean and oil it once in a while.

 

[barhob]

I have the 500B. i loaded 1,980 rounds of 45 ACP in less than seven hours over two afternoons. I loaded in sets of 300 rounds using three primer tubes. Used my air compressor to keep the primer slide bar clean of primer residue every 50 rounds or so. I was not racing the clock. I just methodically loaded with no interruptions and I was lucky not to have but a couple of easy to correct mistakes. (I need to have a case feeder.)
I know the 650 will beat this.

 

[Texas1911]

I'm having some brass quality issues ... I spent 15 minutes sorting and discarding screw ups. Primers going in sideways, getting smushed, etc.

I got about 50 rounds loaded in 15 minutes. Not exactly ground breaking speed, but it works.

 

[TexMex247]

Maybe one day I'll pony up for a Dillon. For now my QC and consistency means more to me than hammering out rounds. The thought of a smashed primer scares me. I have also heard that primer tubes are known to explode violently when dropped or mis-handled. As usual, every progressive goes right from expanding to charging and seating without chamfering case mouths, that always results in more shaved bullets or torn brass. I guess you have to take the bad with the good there. What is your total investment for all your Dillon related stuff ?

 

[Texas1911]

Maybe one day I'll pony up for a Dillon. For now my QC and consistency means more to me than hammering out rounds. The thought of a smashed primer scares me. I have also heard that primer tubes are known to explode violently when dropped or mis-handled. As usual, every progressive goes right from expanding to charging and seating without chamfering case mouths, that always results in more shaved bullets or torn brass. I guess you have to take the bad with the good there. What is your total investment for all your Dillon related stuff ?

You don't have to champfer case mouths on pistols, that's why the powder die bells the mouth. It's nearly impossible to shave a bullet with a good bell.

I probably got $1000 or more into it.

 

[Texas1911]

I'm on my second box of bullets and the primer trash is piling up. MORE BRASS, MORE BRASS!

 

[Dcav]

What kinda speed are you up to now? How many rounds in 15 min (without rushing)

 

[Texas1911]

What kinda speed are you up to now? How many rounds in 15 min (without rushing)

I loaded 250 in 2 hours.

Without the casefeeder, you can't really go any faster. You'd need a second person loading primers.

 

[texas1willy2]

Is it to nosey to ask what kind of cash you have in the set up?

 

[randmplumbingllc]

I'm having some brass quality issues ... I spent 15 minutes sorting and discarding screw ups. Primers going in sideways, getting smushed, etc.

I got about 50 rounds loaded in 15 minutes. Not exactly ground breaking speed, but it works.

Try to make sure that you don't short stroke the machine. That will usually cure the sideways problem, unless it is only in certain headstamps.

Make sure you use enough pressure on the upstroke, to completely seat the primers.

It is all about "feel". Once you have been using the 650 for a while, it will be easy to tell if there is a problem, just by feel.

You are getting there. I can do about a hundred in approx. 10 minutes. Not too bad, but I am not in any real hurry. I rather be a little slower and have good quality control.

 

[Texas1911]

The primer issue was due largely to some of the brass being crimped NATO brass. Some of them I could ease the primer in, others just fubared it. All the S&B, Win, FC, etc. standard brass I had went smoothly.

 

[Texas1911]

Is it to nosey to ask what kind of cash you have in the set up?

XL650 in .45 ACP - $545
9mm Caliber Change - $76
Extra Toolhead - $25
Extra Powder Measure - $74
Dillon 9mm Carbide Dies - $62
Dillon Powder Check - $66
Dillon Strong Mount - $46
RCBS Electronic Scale - $100
RCBS Primer Tray - $6
Cabela's Vibratory Case Cleaner - $65
------------------------------------
Total: $1065

I got a 20% discount on the Dillon parts, and bought a few things on sale at Cabela's. So I probably have closer to $800 in it.

 

[jfrey]

All Dillon loaders are great machines. I knock out about 200/hr on my SDB at a liesurely pace. Two things to watch for. You already found the NATO brass and some brands of "green" ammo come with small primer pockets. Get one of those in there and things can mess up fast. Some ammo sellers sweep up the floor, shake off the dirt, and bag 'em up. You'll get some of those small primered cases once in a while.
Otherwise, get your 650 set up and enjoy loading. Most any problems will show up in the first 1000 rounds or so, and most are easily fixed. Anything you can't figure out, call Dillon. Their CS is the best.

 

[texas1willy2]

Is there a major advantage with the 650 vs. 550?

 

[Texas42]

Is there a major advantage with the 650 vs. 550?

The 550 is manually indexing, while the 650 auto indexes.

The 550 only has 4 stations, while the 650 has 5.

I own the 550b and love it. . . .but I think I should have just ante'd up the extra money and gotten a 650. The caliber conversion kits are more expensive . . . but it is a more high volume machine. In the long run, I think I might try and get one.

As to nato brass. . . .its good quality brass, but the primer pockets are too much of a pain to even bother. . . I don't even save that brass any more.

 

[Texas1911]

Shot 250 of my reloads this weekend, and one of them was a squib. It had enough energy to cycle the action, but not enough to push the bullet past a centimeter of bore. It was a more than unfortunate stoppage. I put in my extra barrel and Travis hammered it out so I could finish the Hoffner's Tactical Pistol class.

Just a reminder to setup my powder check.

+1 to Federal primers. They ran like a champ with my underpowered striker spring.

 

[AusTex]

a few things to check: push the handle forward as if to prime and crank down on the powder dispenser saftey bar thing to compress the spring(it needs to be good and tight) another trick is to get some very fine grit sand paper and sand the powder drop dispenser/bell unit for pistol rounds this helps it not stick on the down stroke causing the powder to pop out. On the part that slides the shell into the round shell holder after being dropped I used a thin piece of foam with sticky on the back(like what you put on the bottom of speakers to prevent them from sliding on glass or w/e) to ensure that the shell gets pushed firm into the shell holder as I was having problems with shells getting jammed on the first re-size station.

My method is this to not screw up..
adjust dies starting with sizer, then use a non sized brass to do powder drop weight, use a factory loaded round to get close on the seater crimp die.
Then load primers and do about 6 or 7 pumps of the handle, then load up your brass, size, prime, powder dump, then seat- measure with calipers and repeat till you get seat/crimp perfect(on rifle next step is to set crimp die).
then do your whole batch and keep tje rounds used for die setup to the side and run them through the seater one more time. Once I got good at the process I can get setup rather quickly and pump out 100 rounds in 15 mins.

I also went ahead and got a headspace gauge for my pistol rounds and I go through every round when I am done and visually inspect the primer and make sure it falls in and drops back out of the gauge. Since I have been doing this I have had one jam.

Also lets load some .45 ? ??! ?1?

 

[Texas1911]

I'd have to switch the entire machine over to do .45 ... not quite looking to do that until I load all this 9mm.

 

[cconn]

Congratz on the 650. I have had mine for 6 or 7 years. One thing to make switching calibers faster is to buy a second priming system. I have one set up for small and one for large. I also bought several extra powder dispensers and just change them out when I want to use a different powder. They are labeled as to which powder and what charge they throw. I used mine for a couple of years without the casefeeded. Having to stop after every 20 rounds and refill the feed tube got old. Finally broke down and bought the casefeeder and have had no problems with it. Some people don't like the Dillon powder checker. But I have always used it and think it works great. Only ever had one squib and that was while I was setting it up the first time and did not have the powder checker installed.

The 650 was the first press I ever bought, so I disagree with those who say a progressive is too complicated to learn on. You can take your time and run it like a single stage until you have a good idea what each station is doing.