No, I’m not kidding. The topic being discussed was disposing of the old license plates (tags); not how they dispose of the trade-in vehicles.You're kidding, right? Remember this little story about that small time dealership called Autonation?
No, I’m not kidding. The topic being discussed was disposing of the old license plates (tags); not how they dispose of the trade-in vehicles.You're kidding, right? Remember this little story about that small time dealership called Autonation?
I received the letter from USAA yesterday. Their instructions were that they transmit the data for the states listed below. Texas was one of those states. It says to obtain a paper title ... If your vehicle is titled in one of the states below (Texas) and our lien is recorded electronically they have contacted the states titling agency to remove the lien from the title. If you need a paper title, please visit yourr state's titling agency's website for information on obtaining a paper title. Guess we will see whether they send me a release of lien or a paper title they are required to send within 15 days.USAA will release their lien (claim) on the car title and you’ll receive the free and clear original title. It’s mainly a transaction between the car loan lending institution (USAA Bank?) and USAA Insurance company. The paperwork is done mainly to get your name officially recorded as the designated “loss payee” (instead of the car loan institution).
Ahh... so that reads a little different than the way they used to operate (in the days before they “electronically” recorded a title lien). Being sent a paper copy of your title (which was the ‘original’ title) used to be an automatic occurrence. You didn’t have to do anything with the state. You just mainly had to insure the bank (car loan institution) notified the insurance company that your loan had been paid off. It may still be that way OR the state has discovered a way to make money by charging for a copy of the cleared title(?). Let us know if you receive your title without proactively having to do anything further (with the state).If you need a paper title, please visit yourr state's titling agency's website for information on obtaining a paper title.
Ahh... a good point!Be sure to remove the registration sticker on your old vehicle when you take off the plates.
From the DPS WEBSITE:
Private Party Sales
If you purchase a car from a private seller, you'll need to receive certain documents from the seller to complete the titling and registration process yourself.
Here's what you'll need from the seller:
The Texas DMV recommends visiting your local county tax office with the seller to transfer ownership. The DMV can help you to determine if the title is being transferred correctly, and if the title is salvaged or has any other similar legal issues.
- The vehicle's title*, signed by you and the seller and including the:
- Odometer disclosure.
- Sale date.
- Purchase price.
- An Application for Texas Title and Registration (Form 130-U).
- This is required to be provided by the seller and must be signed by both parties before the sale is complete.
- Supporting documents such as lien paperwork or a power of attorney may need accompany the title application (if applicable).
- An emissions certificate, if applicable.
- Emissions testing is only required for certain counties and model years. Visit our page on Texas vehicle inspections for more.
- A current Vehicle Inspection Report (VIR).
- Needed for all vehicles currently registered in Texas.
Thank you.
* NOTE: If the seller doesn't have a title or it is in unusable condition, they should apply for a new title PRIOR TO THE SALE by completing an Application for a Certified Copy of Title (Form VTR-34).
If you lose the title after the sale and the original seller cannot be contacted, you may apply for a title by providing the Texas DMV with:
- A bill of sale.
AND- A Bonded Title Application or Tax Collector Hearing Statement of Fact (Form VTR-130-SOF).
Texas Vehicle Registration Paperwork
Once you have the applicable paperwork listed above from your seller, bring your documents to your local TX DMV office along with the following:
For full details on titling and registering your new car in Texas, visit our following guides:
- Lease or lienholder paperwork, if applicable.
- Payment for the fees due, including:
- Registration fee: $51.75.
- Title fee: Varies according to county.
- An Application for Texas Certificate of Title (Form 130-U).
- Needed for vehicles with a lien and previously registered out-of-state.
This^^^First, you get proof of insurance.
Second, you get inspection.
Third, take proof of insurance, inspection and title to vehicle registration office. They'll ask how much you paid and take their taxes, title and license fees and give you a window sticker and some metal plates.
Your clear title will arrive in the mail a week or so later.
I'm looking at a truck that has a blue title. (Blue title means clear title in TX, correct?). Seller disclosed a collision that resulted in an insurance total loss, and seller re-acquired the truck from the insurance company, and repaired the damage.
Is it possible in TX for a vehicle to have a clean blue title in TX after an insurance total loss? I think in most states that would result in a "salvage" or "rebuilt" title, not a clean/clear title.
I've gotten a carfax and it shows no negative info other than the insurance total loss.
What can be worse info from carfax than a total loss?
LOL, good question... I'm willing to buy a truck that was wrecked and determined to be a "total loss" by an insurance company. The price is appropriate, and I have good mechanic buddies. I'm just trying to make sure no other scam is afoot such as fake or fraudulent title. Therefor, my question, can a total loss vehicle have a clear "blue" title?
The bigger concern is whether an insurer will insure a branded title or total loss vehicle..
Good luck! That would turn me away. Too many horror stories from people that bought previously totaled vehicles.LOL, good question... I'm willing to buy a truck that was wrecked and determined to be a "total loss" by an insurance company. The price is appropriate, and I have good mechanic buddies. I'm just trying to make sure no other scam is afoot such as fake or fraudulent title. Therefor, my question, can a total loss vehicle have a clear "blue" title?