Picked up a Marlin 60 .22lr

[Skip]

Picked up a new Marlin 60 with cheap-o scope at wally world for my boys (that's the excuse I am using with my wife).

Here's the crappy pics...

Sorry for the fuzzy pics...

 

[dee]

I bought the wife one of those a few years back good gun but will jam up if you let it get real dirty.

 

[cougartex]

Congratulations.

 

[TheDan]

Nice, I like the stainless! A model 60 was my first gun. It's a really nice firearm, but I was always a little envious of the guys with the 10/22s... That tube magazine just isn't as much fun, lol.

 

[cuate]

Everybody in the family will enjoy shooting that Marlin. We have a lever action Marlin .22 thats a tack driver and fly killer. Marlin has always made good firearms.

 

[dbgun]

That's a nice rifle. Congratulations.

 

[Burt Gummer]

I love mine but as stated above, the action gets real "crunchy" after a few thousand rounds and you will need to take it apart and wipe/spray out all of the crud to keep it rolling.

Enjoy the nice rifle.

 

[Lastshot]

Hey the marlin 60 is a nice little .22. I have several marlins including the 60. If you need to know anything about it, PM me... Ive done it all on the 60. They do get dirty fast though. I can tlak you through the cleaning if you need.

 

[Fisherman777]

Got one and it's a fine rifle. You'll enjoy it.

 

[Skip]

Hey the marlin 60 is a nice little .22. I have several marlins including the 60. If you need to know anything about it, PM me... Ive done it all on the 60. They do get dirty fast though. I can tlak you through the cleaning if you need.

Very cool, Thanks for the offer.

 

[Rabies]

Got one for me and one for her. We like the hell out of 'em.

Post up, Lastshot. We all wanna know your clean little secrets.

 

[dee]

Take the stock off and spray the shit out it with brake clean, at least thats what I do. then ad lil oil and good to go.

 

[Lastshot]

Well, the fact that a model 60 MUST be kept pretty dry in the works.. very important.

I remove the reciever screws and take the action and barrel from the stock. I push out the plastic pin in the rear and remove the trigger group. I ususally use simple green on the trigger group spray it let sit, brish with toothbrush(not yours), wash out with warm water and apply a reallyreally light coating of rem oil. The bolt rod and screw are then removed and clean thoguhraly with #9. (am I the only one that likes that smell?)...

NOW cool things to do... chuck up the guidrod in a drill, and polish with 400 grit and 0000 steel wool. Polish the bolt to a mirror finish with 400-600 grit wet or dry then metal polish or rubbing compound (jus cus it looks good that way). I also polish the interior of the reciever, just for good measure. ALL metal to metal surfaces get a polish. I do this on the trigger group too, but most people dont want to touch that. I can help If any of you are brave. I have reduced my trigger pull to about 3 lbs with no creep or grittyness. I have tricks for that too!... Mine shoot cci sv the best, but shoots pretty good with minimags also. I have not really tried target rounds in it , cus its a varment rifle not a target rifle. But Im sure it would cycle the subs pretty good.

 

[thegoaty]

ooh i want to know how to get a light trigger pull , i was on another site and the talked about weakening a spring and a blow of jb weld. that did not sound like the hot set up to me, so please do share. i thought he trigger was ok untill i shot it!

 

[Lastshot]

The bit o fJB weld they are talking about is to reduce the creep, does not really have anything to do with lightening the trigger. actually wha tI did was to slightly bend the sear release toward the trigger strut with a pair of needle nose pliers. this takes up the slack and does not require the JB weld. NOW, there are three things that make the trigger hard.

1. sear spring
2. hammer spring
3. sear hammer interface

one by one:

1. two schools of thought on this one, but I subscribe to the "detension" group. well... come to think of it both are detensions, so what I did was to bend the sear spring just a tad. remember it has to remain safe , so do bump tests after modifying. Another scholl is to redrill the hole that the sear inserts in the side plate. both achieve the same thing.

2. Hammer spring, This is the big spring that is compressed when cocked. I took 1 coil off of this spring.

3. Hammer sear interface: I polished this area to remove any machine marks and made sure its smooth as a babys butt. then added a tad of white lithium.

bump test.

Also, while you have the trigger group apart, polish everything you can, especially metal to metal interfaces. I polished then entire insides of the two side frames, and all the pins.

I could pick my 60 up by the trigger before I started, now It has about 3 lbs pull... perfect.