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Polishing the ramp price

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  • Skip

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    There is a guy here local that says he will polish the ramp, and look around for anything that stands out that may cause FTF's in my Crimson Pro Carry for 45 bucks. Is this a decent price? He is a certified Glock Armorer, but also works on other makes. This is a side business for him, he owns a animal groomers business here in Helotes. Thanks, Skip
    Texas SOT
     

    Charlie

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    Polishing a ramp is not difficult. I've polished several with Fitz polish (and some other brands) using a felt tip on the dreaded Dremell tool but it can be done with just a soft cloth also. Price seems a little steep but he is in business. Just my two bits.
     

    bryonbush

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    i did my 1911 myself and its cake. go to the automotive section in walmart and get yourself some wet/dry sand paper in like 1200 grit or better. wrap the paper around your finger and keep it wet and go to town. finish it up with some metal polish to make it really neat. i used some wheel polish i had for cleaning them rims on the truck. total cost: Maybe $10 bucks.
     

    orbitup

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    Waxyscratchy
    I'm no expert, but from what I've read it's not a good idea to polish the feed ramp on an aluminium Kimber. On regular 1911's the feed ramp is part of the barrel, on yours it's the frame.

    What is your round count? What is it doing exactly?

    Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk
     

    Texas1911

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    There is a guy here local that says he will polish the ramp, and look around for anything that stands out that may cause FTE's in my Crimson Pro Carry for 45 bucks. Is this a decent price? He is a certified Glock Armorer, but also works on other makes. This is a side business for him, he owns a animal groomers business here in Helotes. Thanks, Skip

    Skip, it's really easy to polish the ramp.

    Just take some 3M metal polishing compound and work it by hand. You don't want to use a power tool as altering the geometry is going to give you problems.

    If the chamber is really rough you can take OOOO steel wool and wrap it around a bronze bore brush, cover it in oil, and spin it in the chamber. You don't wanna go crazy with it, just smooth it out a bit.
     

    Angered_Kabar

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    So you said you were getting failure to extract or failure to ejects?

    A rough or sharp feed ramp would be more in line with failure to feeds.

    Back in the day when someone said to polish the feed ramp on a 1911 they meant to POLISH (not changing any angles or dimensions) the ramp on the barrel only. Somewhere down the line people started sanding the loving crap out of the feed ramps on both the barrel and the frame and doing that only made problems worse.

    If I was going to remedy feeding problems in a 1911 I'd try different magazine first.
     

    ZX9RCAM

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    So you said you were getting failure to extract or failure to ejects?

    A rough or sharp feed ramp would be more in line with failure to feeds
    .

    Back in the day when someone said to polish the feed ramp on a 1911 they meant to POLISH (not changing any angles or dimensions) the ramp on the barrel only. Somewhere down the line people started sanding the loving crap out of the feed ramps on both the barrel and the frame and doing that only made problems worse.

    If I was going to remedy feeding problems in a 1911 I'd try different magazine first.

    Good catch.....great point!
     

    Skip

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    NW San Antonio
    I'm no expert, but from what I've read it's not a good idea to polish the feed ramp on an aluminium Kimber. On regular 1911's the feed ramp is part of the barrel, on yours it's the frame.

    What is your round count? What is it doing exactly?

    Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk


    The round count is around 400, and the problems are FTF's and sometimes the slide being just shy of full battery. From what I am reading (when I talked about this in the past), I may not be using near enough oil when I run it. Next time I go shooting I swear I am going to dunk the whole thing in WD-40...lol
     
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