Pressure question

[Whiskey_Rocka_Rolla]

Another question, and didn't wanna start a new thread for it:

Question...I recently reloaded some 38 Special casings, all with the same powder charge, which would be a mid range load for a 158 grain LSWC, using Unique. Some of the casings were originally +P's, but I still loaded them the same as all the others.

I am just wondering what the difference in the casings is. Or if there is any difference besides the powder charge, for a +P load.

The reason I am asking is because I got myself a new toy today:

Smith and Wesson model 36, made in 1981. I called Smith and Wesson directly because I wanted to be absolutely sure whether or not this gun was able to handle +P loads. Well, as I suspected, it isn't. He said DO NOT shoot +P's in this gun.

So I am now inclined to wonder just what the difference is, and if my handloads using casings stamped +P would be a hazard in this gun. Like I said, the powder charge is the same. I've already shot both in my GP100, but that is a 357 magnum.

Sorry if this isn't the correct forum for this question. I couldn't decide where it would be most appropriate.

Help is appreciated. I posted all this in an actual reloading forum, which had been a big help when I very first started learning about reloading, but lately have gotten little if any help from them. I see questions I asked a month ago that haven't been answered yet. I think I got the crimp thing figured out, and I plan on testing my first 9mm's tomorrow.

 

[Vaquero]

I see no issue using +p brass mixed with standard for mid to low power loads for .38 spl. I've been doing it for a few decades. Even in my old 1861 navy conversion.(replica)

 

[Dredge]

Not a problem using +P stamped brass for your loads. It's purely an identifying mark. The case dimensions are same as regular .38 spl.
You can trim .357 mag down 1/8" and load it at regular .38 special as well.
So long as you know how it's loaded for you gun.

 

[Whiskey_Rocka_Rolla]

So is there any difference at all in the +P brass, besides the stamp? And what is the difference in the load? Just more powder?

 

[Pilgrim]

Usually that and different powder mixes that yield higher pressures.

 

[Vaquero]

No physical difference that I am aware of in .38. +p is a higher pressure load for use only in firearms marked as such. They are also safe to fire in .357mag firearms.

 

[Whiskey_Rocka_Rolla]

Cool....just wanted to know. I have about 15 rounds left and they're all in +P stamped casings. Then I have about 60 rounds of 357 magnums. And about 20 of 9mm's (my first ones). I'll be going to the range to shoot all those tomorrow, and I am glad to know that I can test out my new snubbie without having to load more rounds or go to Wally World.

 

[Vaquero]

Pay close attention to those 9mm rounds. The smaller case capacity does increase pressures quickly with a small overcharge or deeper seated projectile. I ain't trying to scare you, just pointing out a significant difference in .38 and 9mm. Let us know how they function for ya.

 

[Whiskey_Rocka_Rolla]

Pay close attention to those 9mm rounds. The smaller case capacity does increase pressures quickly with a small overcharge or deeper seated projectile. I ain't trying to scare you, just pointing out a significant difference in .38 and 9mm. Let us know how they function for ya.

Yeah I plan on proceeding with EXTREME caution, especially since it's my first ones. What I'm gonna do is fire the 1st round with an empty magazine, just put that one round in the gun. Maybe do that for the first 2 or 3. Then I'm gonna load the magazine up and fire one round at a time, but VERY slowly. I may even pick up a box of factory FMJ's just for extra measure, and load my 10 round mag with 6 or so factory FMJ's, with 4 handloads underneath, shoot the factory rounds, then check the OAL on the hand loads to be absolutely sure I don't have any setback from recoil. And when I fire the handloads consecutively, I plan on going VERY slow to be sure that if I have a squib I can address it before firing off the next round.

 

[Vaquero]

Good plan. Confidence is a good thing when it is based on experience. Otherwise it can be a bad thing.

 

[Whiskey_Rocka_Rolla]

Let us know how they function for ya.

Functioned flawlessly. No issues with accuracy, feeding, or anything at all. Couldn't tell the difference at all from the ones in the white box sitting next to them. Except those were a little more shiny lol...I still don't have a tumbler, just been soaking the casings in the solution after cleaning primer pockets. So as soon as I get some free time I'll be loading up the rest of them, I'd say about 1K more 9mm's, then can start on my first batch of 40's.

 

[Vaquero]

Nice. Good going!

 

[Charlie]

Shiny doesn't make them do better, only makes them prettier until you shoot them! Get you a cheapo Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner (they look exactly like the ones sold by the reloading folks, probably all come from the Chinese sweat shop!) cheaper than one that says "Hornady", or "RCBS", etc. The best thing about them is they clean the primer pockets and the inside of the case in about 3 or 4 minutes. When I pull them out of the solution (1/2 water, 1/2 white vinegar, 2 drops of dish soap, and a !/2 teaspoon of baking soda) I use my air compressor and blow the water off of them and from the inside of the case and any soot still in the primer pocket. Just my two bits.

 

[Whiskey_Rocka_Rolla]

Shiny doesn't make them do better, only makes them prettier until you shoot them! Get you a cheapo Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner (they look exactly like the ones sold by the reloading folks, probably all come from the Chinese sweat shop!) cheaper than one that says "Hornady", or "RCBS", etc. The best thing about them is they clean the primer pockets and the inside of the case in about 3 or 4 minutes. When I pull them out of the solution (1/2 water, 1/2 white vinegar, 2 drops of dish soap, and a !/2 teaspoon of baking soda) I use my air compressor and blow the water off of them and from the inside of the case and any soot still in the primer pocket. Just my two bits.

Thanks, that helps.

 

[Gramps]

Good to hear Whiskey! We need to meet up at ASC and swap notes some day.

Oh, where did you shoot? None of the indoor ranges allow lead that I have found.

 

[andrew678122]

Instead of fussing with adjusting reloading dies to apply a proper crimp, I've invested in the Lee family of "Factory Crimp Dies".

They are made for practically every pistol and rifle cartridge.

Adds one additional step to the reloading process, but it sure works wonders with accuracy and reliability.

I second that, I have the .30-30 Lee Factory Crimp die and it couldn't make crimping any easier, more consistent and more accurate. I'm amazed that all die manufacturers don't make their own version of the Lee Factory Crimp die...

 

[Rifleman55]

All revolver rounds need some crimp, if you fail to crimp rounds like .44 mag the recoil will cause bullets to jump forward and tie up the gun, I have had it happen.
All auto pistol rounds need a slight taper crimp to feed properly and to help prevent setback. I picked up a part of a box of .45 acp at the range yesterday that had a lot of the bullets pushed back into the cases. I took them into my reloading shed and did a little measuring and found that the bullets are about .001 undersize. I could push them into the case with my fingers.