Refinishing kits, opinions and experiences?

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by Jason, Oct 4, 2009.

  1. Jason

    Jason Well-Known

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    Apr 20, 2008
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    I used an Outer's Kit years ago on a revolver that I maimed before discovering bluing remover.

    I think it turned out ok, minus the butchered cylinder by me...

    I am about to do either just the barrel or the whole thing on a M-300 Sears & Roebuck 12 guage...

    The barrel is a must do, the receiver is... ehhh decent for original...

    Wanted to see what others have used and thought of the products available today for home kits.

    I might also do a little cleanup on the stock too, but it looks pretty good also.
     


  2. Jason

    Jason Well-Known

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    Bought a Birchwood Casey kit with the Perma-Blue liquid in it today at Cabela's... don't know when I will get to start on it, but I have the supplies now...

    Also bought a can of BC Gun Oil and a can of BC Barricade for it too...

    I can take it back it anyone has any other suggestions...
     
  3. treyw

    treyw Member

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    Oct 5, 2009
    Central TX
    High-Cap, could you give any more info on the DuraCoat? I'm about to build a long range .308, and I'm thinking of DuraCoating the barrel and action. Any problems or tips you could provide?
     
  4. Shorts

    Shorts TGT Addict TGT Supporter

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    Dad and I refinished an old 12ga with the Birchwood Casey blueing kit. It came out nice - of course it was real rough before. We even refinished the stock with the stock refinishing kit. It wasn't anything special but it refreshed an old shotgun.
     
  5. Its really hard to get cold bluing to come out right on a whole gun. It wont be even and will have some spots darker than others. If you do do it with cold blue, make very very sure you have all the oil off the parts and wear latex gloves. Get all the rust and stuff off the part and polish it as fine as you possibly can with progressively finer sandpaper and steel wool. The better your polish job the better the bluing will look. Apply bluing and let dry then buff with 0000 steel wool then add another coat, and repeat till its where you want it.

    As for wood, if its a nice type of wood I like the look of Tung Oil or Tru Oil on it without stain. If its birch or some other cheap wood, find a stain you like and stain the wood, then Tru Oil it.
     
  6. Shorts

    Shorts TGT Addict TGT Supporter

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    Definitely. And that's the downside to cold blue. Its really easy to do but seamless results are difficult to achieve.
     
  7. Jason

    Jason Well-Known

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    I was basically figuring that it couldn't get any worse... I have only done this once before and it was a revolver so a lot LESS metal to try and get it even...

    I do plan on polishing it real good before doing it and I might get a tube of the bluing paste to put on after a few coats of the liquid it it turns out decent...

    The piece is a M-300 Sears and Roebuck like I mentioned, so I don't know what kind of wood it is...
     
  8. treyw

    treyw Member

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    Thanks for the info Appreciate It
     
  9. cardenas

    cardenas New Member

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    Alvin
    I Duracoated my CZ 82. It is pretty easy to do just follow the directions, any questions and the Lauer website will help or you can call them.


    [​IMG]
     
  10. Jason

    Jason Well-Known

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    Wow, I don't remember this being as hard the first time I did it... this ol' Sears M-300 is a tough cookie!
     

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