reloading basics

[codygjohnson]

I checked a couple of sights on the internet to buy Hodgdons Titgroup and all are out of it. Any other places to look. They have H380 in stock. Any other brands or types? Also does .45 take small or large primers?

You aren’t going to want to order online if you can help it. The HAZMAT fee for shipping powder is usually higher than the cost of the powder itself, if you’re just ordering a pound. If you can’t find it local, it may be your only choice though.

 

[Dawico]

You aren’t going to want to order online if you can help it. The HAZMAT fee for shipping powder is usually higher than the cost of the powder itself, if you’re just ordering a pound. If you can’t find it local, it may be your only choice though.

Very true, hatmat is about $20 whether you order 1 pound or 10 pounds, so if you are positive of what you want, order in bulk and break the cost up.

 

[randmplumbingllc]

I checked a couple of sights on the internet to buy Hodgdons Titgroup and all are out of it. Any other places to look. They have H380 in stock. Any other brands or types? Also does .45 take small or large primers?

That is the problem right now. You can find powder, but maybe not exactly the powder you want. Winchester WST or WSF works okay for .45 ACP, but Titegroup is my favorite. I usually order a 8lb. jug each time.

Most .45 ACP use Large pistol primers (not magnum) Some use small pistol primers, but MOST are large.

 

[randmplumbingllc]

Very true, hatmat is about $20 whether you order 1 pound or 10 pounds, so if you are positive of what you want, order in bulk and break the cost up.

Exactly. I would order bulk powder and primers. "IF" you can buy local, even better. Even if it cost a little more locally, you save waiting, shipping and hazmat charges. Some areas don't have much for local purchase, so the net may be your only option.

One of the best thing about reloading is boasting about how little it cost you, per round, so try to watch your pennies.

I load .45 ACP 230 gr. FMJ for about $160.00 a thousand. I am sure there are others that are even cheaper. Using lead bullets or casting your own would bring that cost WAY down.

You (usually) can't shoot for free, but you can come close compared to Factory ammo. At prices now, it would cost, AT LEAST $400.00 for 1K of cheap factory .45 ACP. $160.00 is about 40% of the price of factory , IF you can find 400. dollars worth of .45 ACP to buy

 

[gerritm]

I set up my loader last night. I will finish installing it permanently on the table I am putting together. I don't have a lot of room and of course the garage is full, so I am setting it up on an old Black and Decker folding work mate. I set it temporarily on it and it works good and I can fold it up when done and hang it in the garage. I set up the dies on the 4-hole turret and adjusted them and did a couple of .45 with Nosler 185 gr bullets test shells with no powder or primer. I think I have the dies adjusted pretty close according to Lee's spec. One question that I can't seem to find an answer to. The final step is to crimp the shell casing. They tell you how to do a light or heavy crimp. What is the best or correct. It doesn't recommend one or the other. I did order a 1# bottle of powder and CCI large and small primers. They hit me with a $20 fee.

 

[Texas42]

You are always going to get a hazmat fee if you buy primers or powder (if you buy primed brass, or loaded rounds, no hazmat fee. That is just the way it is.) It makes going to Cabela's, Bass Pro, or the local gun shops more cost effective for the low volume. It starts to get cheaper online at around 5k primers, and many people here buy much, much more at a time.

I put a very light crimp on my 9mm (really just puts out the belling), and I think that 45 auto is the same, though I'd look elsewear for advice. I've never loaded 45 auto.

 

[robocop10mm]

That is the problem right now. You can find powder, but maybe not exactly the powder you want. Winchester WST or WSF works okay for .45 ACP, but Titegroup is my favorite. I usually order a 8lb. jug each time.

Most .45 ACP use Large pistol primers (not magnum) Some use small pistol primers, but MOST are large.

The only .45 ACP cases I have seen that use small primers is the Speer RHT (lead free non toxic frangible). That stuff is expensive so you won't see much in your scrounging unless you get it from the local LE indoor range.

I crimp auto pistols enough to "just" see about 1/16" of a mark at the mouth. You should not be able to see any belling, but still feel the edge of the case mouth. Do not crimp so hard that the mouth digs into and disappears into the bullet. Use your barrel as a gauge. The loaded round should fall into the chamber with out assistance. The base of the case should sit flush with the barrel hood or slightly ( very slightly) under it. The loaded round should then fall out of the chamber freely.

 

[randmplumbingllc]

The only .45 ACP cases I have seen that use small primers is the Speer RHT (lead free non toxic frangible). That stuff is expensive so you won't see much in your scrounging unless you get it from the local LE indoor range.

I know for a fact that , at least some, Fiocchi .45 ACP use small pistol primers I have not seen much of that either, just letting the OP know that it DOES exist. Many people are not aware it is out there.

 

[Texas42]

I know for a fact that , at least some, Fiocchi .45 ACP use small pistol primers I have not seen much of that either, just letting the OP know that it DOES exist. Many people are not aware it is out there.

Interesting. How would you change the load? Up or down? I'm thinking you would want to use quicker burning powders too, but I'm not sure.

 

[randmplumbingllc]

Interesting. How would you change the load? Up or down? I'm thinking you would want to use quicker burning powders too, but I'm not sure.

I am not sure either, but I am under the same opinion that you would want a faster burning powder.

 

[gerritm]

I found some Hodgdons Tite Group powder and large primers at the GRB gunshow this weekend. One more question. The Lee Factory said no, but do you need case lube on handgun loads. They said with their dies on pistol loads it was not needed. Also do you need to chamfer and or cut each case? Or just measure them to make sure they are within tolerances?

 

[dobarker]

If you're demanding on accuracy, trim them all the same. If you're just plinking, within tolerances works, of course reliability depends on the firearm.
As for the case lubing, always lube. Don't learn it the hard way. A straight walled pistol case will have a lot less friction exerted on it during the downstroke of the lever, but if you get one of those boogers stuck in there, be prepared to cuss.

 

[dobarker]

And for chamfering, yes, you still need to chamfer. Any burrs left on the cases could spell doom for the pistol or shooter in a number of different ways.