Reloading novice

[Eastexasrick]

Thanks for all the replies! Only interested in reloading rifle rounds, specifically .257 Weatherby Magnum and 25-06.


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With the sparce factory selections available, and the obscene prices, those are two excellent rounds to load.

 

[lairdoglencairn]

With the sparce factory selections available, and the obscene prices, those are two excellent rounds to load.

Yeah, luckily I bought several boxes of both a few years ago but they ain’t gonna last forever!


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[Here4TheChix]

Isn't the Thought Police Google, Our Dear Leaders, shutting down reloading channels for completely legal ammo reloading as manufacturing?

With primers at an all time high, and (most) ammo at record-lows in the last 2 years, I think it is a bad time to start reloading, unless you have a really obscure (and priced) ammo you are planning on reloading...

If you ever can get a progressive like a Dillon XL650/750 from a dead guy's wife/kids, then swoop for a good price, no matter when, but I still think it is a bad time until primers come to a reasonable price again...

If you are moderately mechanically inclined... a progressive is fine to learn on, if you go slow and do not chase max charges...
while you figure it out... ask questions, and research problems.

 

[Havok1]

Yes I have both the older circular and triangular trays. I usually prime off press. My point was for the newbie that if he was going to buy a Lee kit like this that came with a Lee manual not to buy a separate Lee manual, just to save the money.I just ordered the Lee 6000 pro. Hopefully better than their AP pro.
Definitely recommend Lyman manual. Realize that when you but a manual like Hornady reloading manual they specifically are for Hornady bullets.

Yeah, I see what you mean. I just brought it up because if those items are problematic it may lessen the value of doing that. But if other people are having good results with it then no need to worry.

 

[RankAmateur]

Thanks for all the replies! Only interested in reloading rifle rounds, specifically .257 Weatherby Magnum and 25-06.


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Wow, esoteric much? (kidding of course). You couldn't jump into learning reloading on something like 9mm Luger? (again, kidding).

Understand your desire given the commercial availability of those rounds. I'm sure others will tell you to stock up on components when and if you find them as availability of LRPs and MLRPs are not great at this point, and costs are high. Also, you'll be burning ~60 - 70 grains of powder in each load, so about 100 rounds per pound. Don't know what bullet/powder you intend, but there are dozens of formulas available for loading .257 Wetherby Mag, and hundreds(?) for the 25-06, so finding something that will work should be "do-able", depending on what bullet you find appropriate for your application (I presume hunting).

For these rounds, you should absolutely focus on a single-stage or turret press, so it won't be expensive to start out. Dies can be had for somewhere in the $60 - $200/set range depending on brand and features, but likely "benchrest" series/quality dies are just not needed for your cartridges . Also, I'm going to assume that you are not intending very high volume reloading, so "convenience" features like priming on your press is not necessary, and you may actually get a better feel for priming with a hand priming tool.

I presume you've been collecting your brass. Although new brass is produced by several manufacturers, actual availability has been sparse. With pressures around 60K, you'll have to be very careful about inspecting brass for the sake of safety. Standard dies will overwork case necks and harden your brass (which can lead to increasing neck tension and splits). If you don't have a supply of new brass, or you intend to reload your cases as many times as possible, you might want to consider one of the bushing-type sizing dies.

Pure technical recommendation - cases like these, especially the belted magnum, will be a nightmare to remove from a die if they get stuck. Learning this on a 9mm straight-wall cartridge is frustrating enough. If you get a .257 case stuck, just throw away the die and buy a new one (kidding yet again, but if it happens, you'll understand). Invest in some sizing die wax (imperial or similar), and use a little more than "sparce". Applying it by hand to each case takes more time than sprays, but the result is much more reliable.

Good luck. Starting out reloading on large bottleneck rifle rounds is certainly do-able, but meeting up with someone who can do some coaching would be invaluable. Enjoy!!

 

[Byrd666]

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[bbbass]

Yah, I started by reloading 7mm Rem Mag. The process is the same for most rifle rounds, but keep in mind you will need a STRONG press for your magnum round. Don't cheap out with the lower versions that brands offer.

In the RCBS line, I like the Rock Chucker for reloading magnums. It is a double arm press and has a larger cylinder and frame.

There are many good turret presses, which speed things up by not having to swap dies at each stage of the process. You can also get a spare turret head to mount your other set of dies and make change over of caliber easier.

 

[RankAmateur]

OP, if not clear to you, you need to set up/adjust your dies for your cartridges/your rifles. You can adjust things like the length of headspace/amount of shoulder setback by either screwing the sizing die in or out. When you have the right setting, you lock that setting in place with the lock ring. Unfortunately, with most single stage presses, you have to screw in a specific die for each stage of the process, and then replace that die for the next. Most dies are supplied with lock rings that get "fixed" in place with a locking screw of some sort, so you can reproduce the position of the die when you remove it from the press and then reinstall it at a later time.

The need to remove/reinstall dies at each stage of loading can be eliminated by using a turret press that has several die positions in a single head. With these, you install and adjust your dies once, never remove them, and change stages of reloading simply by rotating the turret head to the desired die. Most turret presses are almost as strong as their single-stage cousins, and are not really that much more expensive. As @bbbass says, you could set up one turret head for the .257 and another for 25-06 and just change out the turret head (quick and easy) for the round you are loading.

Another time-saving approach is found in the Forster Co-Ax press. This is a single stage press favored by many precision loaders as you don't have to screw/unscrew dies in order to swap them in the press.

Quality reloads depend on "sameness" (exactly the same dimensions of the case, same powder amounts, same primer and primer position, same bullet and position of bullet into the case, same neck tension, etc.). Variations in any of these things can make each round you load perform differently to every other one you load (accuracy/precision on target, velocity, pressures, etc.). If your press flexes during any stage of reloading, you will introduce variation. So, @bbbass is right to mention strength. Cheap, low end presses can and do flex visibly when loading heavy ammo (not good), so stronger presses are needed. Most presses in the Rock Chucker line, the RCBS turret, the Forster Co-Ax, and other single-stage or turret presses from other manufacturers would also suffice, but the bottom of the line from any manufacturer should probably be avoided. Also, when considering turret presses, (and just because you are new to this so forgive me if you know this) there is a difference between turret and progressive presses. You probably don't want the latter for your purposes.

 

[popper]

Rockchucker or Lee classic cast. Good powder dispenser, handheld primer device. Good scale. RCBS die set. Good to go. Whatever gives quality reloads at minimum cost. Lots of fancy goodies for later but if your reloads hold MOA at what ever distance, you did good to start.

 

[paknheat]

Thanks for all the replies! Only interested in reloading rifle rounds, specifically .257 Weatherby Magnum and 25-06.


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Oh good, another quarter bore enthusiast. One thing to consider when you are looking to load these is your choice of powder.

With both of these cartridges being overbore, you may get away with only needing one, or maybe two powders to get you where you want to be.

They both work really well with slower burning powders designed to work with the magnum cartridge.

I would also recommend you look at Sierra’s loading manual. They have one of the widest selection of powders to choose from out there.


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[lairdoglencairn]

Thanks so much to everyone for all the excellent information. I'm not sure if I'm more or less inclined to take up reloading having read it!

The availability, and price of .257 weatherby magnum has really served as a catalyst. I've always been interested in reloading (and have been saving brass for some time) but the shortages over the last couple of years have me thinking about it way more seriously.

I think I'll stick to reading for the time being and keep my eyes peeled for a deal on one of the turret presses mentioned. If I stumble into a deal on some equipment any time soon I'll defintiely be looking for someone local to show me the ropes.

Thanks again everyone!

 

[lairdoglencairn]

OP, if not clear to you, you need to set up/adjust your dies for your cartridges/your rifles. You can adjust things like the length of headspace/amount of shoulder setback by either screwing the sizing die in or out. When you have the right setting, you lock that setting in place with the lock ring. Unfortunately, with most single stage presses, you have to screw in a specific die for each stage of the process, and then replace that die for the next. Most dies are supplied with lock rings that get "fixed" in place with a locking screw of some sort, so you can reproduce the position of the die when you remove it from the press and then reinstall it at a later time.

The need to remove/reinstall dies at each stage of loading can be eliminated by using a turret press that has several die positions in a single head. With these, you install and adjust your dies once, never remove them, and change stages of reloading simply by rotating the turret head to the desired die. Most turret presses are almost as strong as their single-stage cousins, and are not really that much more expensive. As @bbbass says, you could set up one turret head for the .257 and another for 25-06 and just change out the turret head (quick and easy) for the round you are loading.

Another time-saving approach is found in the Forster Co-Ax press. This is a single stage press favored by many precision loaders as you don't have to screw/unscrew dies in order to swap them in the press.

Quality reloads depend on "sameness" (exactly the same dimensions of the case, same powder amounts, same primer and primer position, same bullet and position of bullet into the case, same neck tension, etc.). Variations in any of these things can make each round you load perform differently to every other one you load (accuracy/precision on target, velocity, pressures, etc.). If your press flexes during any stage of reloading, you will introduce variation. So, @bbbass is right to mention strength. Cheap, low end presses can and do flex visibly when loading heavy ammo (not good), so stronger presses are needed. Most presses in the Rock Chucker line, the RCBS turret, the Forster Co-Ax, and other single-stage or turret presses from other manufacturers would also suffice, but the bottom of the line from any manufacturer should probably be avoided. Also, when considering turret presses, (and just because you are new to this so forgive me if you know this) there is a difference between turret and progressive presses. You probably don't want the latter for your purposes.

Really appreciate the tips! I would PM but I’m unable to for some reason!


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[BuzzinSATX]

Based on what you want to load for, I’ll just say for the money, you cannot go wrong with a RCBS Rockchucker. Get RCBS dies for it, a beam scale, and you’re pretty much good to go.

If you said you wanted to load 9MM or .45 in volume, my answer would have been much different.

 

[toddnjoyce]

Really appreciate the tips! I would PM but I’m unable to for some reason!


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Read the forum rules and you’ll understand why.

 

[Vaquero]

Calipers and powder scale matter more than the brand of press or dies.
Powder selection Is a close 3rd.
Case preparation tools will make things easier.

 

[Txmark]

For what it’s worth, find a mentor local to you. If you are just planning on loading for those two rifle calibers, you probably won’t shoot lots of rounds. Go to some of the ranges in your area and make friends with us old guys that already reload. I have let several people come to my house and use my equipment while I “supervise/ mentor” them. Bring your dies (if they don’t already have that caliber), supplies, brass and good attitude. A lot of old folks enjoy passing on their knowledge to people who want to learn. That way you can make sure that reloading is for you before you buy a lot of future garage sale items. You can also gain valuable information as well. Just my two cents worth. By the way, I fell way down the “rabbit hole” of reloading and now load 28 different calibers of pistol/ rifle on multiple presses.


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[TexMex247]

Well at least LR primers are back again at most Academy stores albeit at 9.99/100. You'll find bottle neck cartridges are definitely a little more complicated than straight wall pistol rounds. Proper shoulder set back is key. Make sure you chamber a few sized cases as you go to ensure your bolt closes easily.

You could probably also get away with just having 1 or 2 powders for both. H4895 comes to mind but it's scarce and pricey these days. Even at 10 cents a primer you should get significant savings over time in addition to tayloring rounds that your rifle will prefer.

Remember you can almost always load over book length if your chamber and magazine allow it. I regularly seat bullets a few thousandths over book length for my 280 Remington but it's seen enough rounds to have a bit of throat erosion.

 

[lairdoglencairn]

Well, it happened, I stumbled into a deal on a Forster Co-ax and a few other things. Don’t have everything I need yet but I’m adding things with an increased urgency!

The best part of it all was making a local contact who has been very generous with his time and advice. I’m looking forward to putting my first loads together in the next few weeks.

I’m going to start with .308 and go from there.


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[RankAmateur]

Well, it happened, I stumbled into a deal on a Forster Co-ax and a few other things. Don’t have everything I need yet but I’m adding things with an increased urgency!

The best part of it all was making a local contact who has been very generous with his time and advice. I’m looking forward to putting my first loads together in the next few weeks.

I’m going to start with .308 and go from there.


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GOOD FOR YOU! You may evolve your preferences as you gain experience, but you've started with a press that's plenty good enough to do whatever precision loads you'll ever want! Even more kudos for finding the local contact. Best of luck (and fun) to you!

 

[oldguy]

Try reloading, it's a great addition to the sport of target shooting, after 50 years of reloading I find it relaxing, I prefer to shoot my own loads over commercial.
Warning, with rifles you can become obsessed with accuracy causing additional
expense of powder and tools. Smile.