Rock River Arms Uppers - Any Good?

[Glenn B]

Sounds like a good opportunity to save up for a larue UU...

Op, do you have access to tools, primarily a vise and tourqe wrench?

I have some tools like a torque driver (not a orque wrench), no vise and am a klutz when it comes to putting stuff together. Yet, I have to put my lower together; once the upper arrives, I will commence assembling the lower.

 

[SQLGeek]

completely compatible and safe with both .223 AND 5.56 NATO.

Yep, you're good. Enjoy!

 

[rotor]

Am considering a build too. Do you guys use go and no-go gages on these builds?

 

[deemus]

never heard of them.

 

[rotor]

never heard of them.

Never heard of go, no-go gages?

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[deemus]

I have heard of headspace gauges.

 

[OLDVET]

I bought two RRA rifles about 15 years ago.
One is the RRA Tactical Entry and the other is the RRA National Match.
Back when I bought my two rifles, both brothers (owners of RRAs) were still alive. They made extremely well made rifles. My National Match is guaranteed to shoot 1/2" groups at 100 yards. The Tactical Entry is guaranteed to shoot 3/4" groups at 100 yards. These tolerances are displayed on the RRA website for each rifle. My National Match with my reloads used to shoot 5 shot groups less than 1/2". In fact on one great day when I was younger, I actually got all five to touch.
The brother that was the most attentive to details has since died. My RRA rifles are built to very tight tolerances.
I understand some of the later models are not so well made. Makes sense with the finicky brother dead.
I will vouch for the RRA products. Maybe not as good as before, but still good.

 

[zackmars]

Am considering a build too. Do you guys use go and no-go gages on these builds?

No, especially if you are using quality brands of barrel and bolt

 

[zackmars]

I have some tools like a torque driver (not a orque wrench), no vise and am a klutz when it comes to putting stuff together. Yet, I have to put my lower together; once the upper arrives, I will commence assembling the lower.

The lower is easy, just pay attention when installing the pivot/takedown/buffer detent springs

Uppers aren't too difficult, with proper choice in parts.

Might be a good idea to see if any neighbors have a vise and tourqe wrench you can use, a decent vise block isn't super expensive.

You really don't need anything else beyond very basic tools for basic assembly

 

[Glenn B]

I do not have to assemble the upper, as for the lower - I think I have everything I need.

 

[deemus]

I do not have to assemble the upper, as for the lower - I think I have everything I need.

Good way to start.

 

[shipwreck]

Over the years, I recall that I've seen some complaints about Rock RIver Arms - Either Not staking the bolt carrier group on their ARs, or staking it too lightly. But, those comments are several years old, so maybe things have changed...

 

[Glenn B]

It's completely personal preference. A2 vs Carbine lower is just what type of buffer assembly and stock you use. There are no issues with compatibility between upper and lower in this case.

As far as building your lower, this is a good video.

Just a hint, a clevis pin makes installing the pivot pin very easy.

Make sure the ears on the receiver for the trigger guard are well supported. Breaking one will turn your lower into a paperweight.

So, I finally got started on putting together the lower kit yesterday after having it for about 3-4 years and only having installed two components before yesterday. Got to the point of installing the selector switch plunger, spring and pistol grip and came to a screeching halt because the PSA kit uses a hex screw for the grip. Why - who in Hades can say - but screw who ever decided on that instead a a regular slotted screw or Phillips screw. That meant I had to stop because none of my hex wrenches are long enough to install the grip. A trip to Homer's Depot is coming up sometime today to get one that is long enough. I will be looking for a screw with a slotted head or Phillips head to change out the one with the hex head at some future date.

Wanted to comment on that video. It was helpful to some degree but I had to watch both it and one from Midway USA to make sure I was getting it right. Of course the one from Midway, besides being an educational video, was a sales pitch for the tools they sell and such. The best thing about the above video was that it referenced AR-15.com and the guide page for AR builds on that site. I was trying to figure out which springs went where and because it explained that the takedown detent spring and pivot detent springs were the same (2 included in a kit), I was able to rule out the selector spring when installing the pivot pin spring.

One thing about online how to gun videos - if you ever make one, try to keep your hands from blocking the camera when installing parts. Sometimes that is next to impossible but you usually can reposition your hands, turn the part on which you are working, or move the camera to get an unobstructed or less obstructed view. In both videos I used, the guys working on the lower receiver got their hands in the way of the camera at critical points (at least critical to me as a first time lower builder).

I have to thank SQLGeek for the video above and everyone else who has helped me along throughout this thread. Now, I am off to Homer's Depot to get a hex driver long enough to do the job.

 

[SQLGeek]

Glad you almost have it done. What approach did you go with to install the pivot pin?

 

[Big Green]

So, I finally got started on putting together the lower kit yesterday after having it for about 3-4 years and only having installed two components before yesterday. Got to the point of installing the selector switch plunger, spring and pistol grip and came to a screeching halt because the PSA kit uses a hex screw for the grip. Why - who in Hades can say - but screw who ever decided on that instead a a regular slotted screw or Phillips screw. That meant I had to stop because none of my hex wrenches are long enough to install the grip. A trip to Homer's Depot is coming up sometime today to get one that is long enough. I will be looking for a screw with a slotted head or Phillips head to change out the one with the hex head at some future date.

Wanted to comment on that video. It was helpful to some degree but I had to watch both it and one from Midway USA to make sure I was getting it right. Of course the one from Midway, besides being an educational video, was a sales pitch for the tools they sell and such. The best thing about the above video was that it referenced AR-15.com and the guide page for AR builds on that site. I was trying to figure out which springs went where and because it explained that the takedown detent spring and pivot detent springs were the same (2 included in a kit), I was able to rule out the selector spring when installing the pivot pin spring.

One thing about online how to gun videos - if you ever make one, try to keep your hands from blocking the camera when installing parts. Sometimes that is next to impossible but you usually can reposition your hands, turn the part on which you are working, or move the camera to get an unobstructed or less obstructed view. In both videos I used, the guys working on the lower receiver got their hands in the way of the camera at critical points (at least critical to me as a first time lower builder).

I have to thank SQLGeek for the video above and everyone else who has helped me along throughout this thread. Now, I am off to Homer's Depot to get a hex driver long enough to do the job.

Most LPK I have used have an Allen key for the pistol grip. Magpul even has their name on the bolt head of theirs, also an Allen. I don’t like Phillips or slotted for the grip screw, Allen works best.

 

[Glenn B]

Glad you almost have it done. What approach did you go with to install the pivot pin?

As per the Midway USA video you needed a certain tool to do the job right to hold the spring and detent in place until you psuhed in the pivot pin. Well, I improvised. One of my small jwelers like tools had a hole in it just the size I needs toget my smallest punch through it. The thing was the body of the tool would not slide through the pivot pin hole all the way because the tool had a head on it on the end near the hole. So, I used the punch to push down on the dtetent and spring through the perfectly sized hole in the tool, then held the detent and spring down with the blade of an SKS tool (don't know the name of it) while I pulled out the jeweler's tool the wrong way (it would oly go that way because of the head on it). While still holding down the detent and spring with the blade of the SKS tool, I inserted the pivot pin. Worked like a charm but if the SKS bladed tool had slipped, whoopsie - the detent and spring would have been launched to who knows where.

 

[SQLGeek]

Sounds like that worked. Instead of that special tool, a clevis pin will also work.

 

[Glenn B]

Sounds like that worked. Instead of that special tool, a clevis pin will also work.

Something I will have to pick up at Homer's Depot.

 

[zackmars]

I love magpul grip screws. I wish they sold them separately.

Short enough to work in andersons, slot and hex heads...

You don't (shouldn't) need a tool for any of the pins, the hole for the spring is just long enough to hold the spring and detent, press it in using the pin, push pin in, assuming properly spec'ed parts.

The tool does help if you got the lower in a vise though

 

[Glenn B]

Well, got the lower done today. Kind of screwed up the screw head on the screw that holds the stock in place because even after trying to get it tight three times it kept being loose. Fourth time was a charm and yes I did use the A2 spacer. Should have used a screwdriver with a wider blade though on that screw. Going to order a new screw so it looks nicer and not screwed up.

Slapped on the PSA upper a little while later, still needs the sights to be added and will get to that later.

Hope I got it all right; I think so and a a good sign is there are no parts left over! Next steap is to shoot it and hope it works and does not fall apart!

I was pretty surprised at the information given in a few different how to videos on building a lower. For instance: Midway USA' video says to use Loctite on the threads of the buffer tube, the video first recommended to me in this thread says to put grease on the threads and a video from Brownell's (which I found to be the most useful on the final steps only because that is the point when I found that video) did not mention putting anything on the threads. I left the threads bare and can always take it apart, apply Loctite if needed and reassemble. That was kind of fun, looking forward t doing it again if I can find a stripped lower and a parts kit at decent prices; I have a Stag 15 O.R.C. upper on order that should be delivered Tuesday.

I suppose the next build step would be to build an upper, no hurry for that though since the Stag 15 upper is on order.

I really appreciated everyone's input in this thread. Thanks to you all.