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Separating brass by brand.

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  • robertc1024

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    For plinking, I wouldn't worry about it . I loaded up tons of misc brass and had no issues hitting an eight inch plate at 200 yards with different shooters. When I'm trying to bughole groups, things change.
     

    AKM

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    The largest amount of my shooting would be considered plinking! And the rest would probably be misfires or accidental discharges! :green:
    When I shot more I was accidentally hitting 4" or so plates at 600, now I'm happy to hit a torso target haha.

    I was neck shooting the full size deer at ASC at 600 a few weeks ago which isn't bad
     

    robertc1024

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    When I shot more I was accidentally hitting 4" or so plates at 600, now I'm happy to hit a torso target haha.

    I was neck shooting the full size deer at ASC at 600 a few weeks ago which isn't bad
    You're on your way. Welcome to the dark side of precision shooting.
     

    Dawico

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    Military brass is thicker. The cases weigh more. There's more brass in the base(head) area. Thicker walls. Therefore, the internal volume is different then a thinner walled civilian case.

    Civilian cases are made with less brass. Compare the weight between a 5.56 WWB case to a NATO 5.56 case. Outside dimensions are the same. The internal isn't.
    This is a common misconception.

    Many brands of good brass weigh more than military brass.

    The only easy way to really tell volume differences is to fill them with water.

    For plinking ammo none of it matters anyways.
     

    orbitup

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    If you want to reliably hit a 4" plate at 600 yards then you need to sort. I put all of the military brass in one tub and then sort some of the commercial brands for more precision. I use the Federal brass when I need to knock a zit off of a gnat's ass.
     

    robertc1024

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    The really weird thing to me was when I started concentrating on MV, and bullet profile type for my particular rifle. I used high $ 55 g flat based bullets and super cheap ones. I'm no bench rest guy, but with the same powder loads, they were consistent groups.
     

    AKM

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    The really weird thing to me was when I started concentrating on MV, and bullet profile type for my particular rifle. I used high $ 55 g flat based bullets and super cheap ones. I'm no bench rest guy, but with the same powder loads, they were consistent groups.
    Honestly I'm buying pulled bullets to plink, they claim they have minimal marks. I'll buy better stuff for distance.


    But I can't load until I get some important equipment(which will be a while).
    -Trimmer
    -prep station
    -Powder dropper of some sort(want to bite the bullet and get an rcbs lite)
    -other stuff I'm forgetting..
     

    benenglish

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    None you can by. Army Marksmanship Unit hand loads for competitions.
    Except for the stuff that leaks out, of course. I cherish my box of .38AMU. I have no idea how it escaped from the Army Marksmanship Unit but I was happy to buy it when I saw it on a table at a gun show.

    There always seems to be an exception that proves the rule, doesn't there?
     

    toddnjoyce

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    Except for the stuff that leaks out, of course. I cherish my box of .38AMU. I have no idea how it escaped from the Army Marksmanship Unit but I was happy to buy it when I saw it on a table at a gun show.

    There always seems to be an exception that proves the rule, doesn't there?

    Yeah, that. My son is close friends with a former AMU shooter (Lee Dimaculamgan) who’s now an officer at Ft Lewis. DMac is great people who I know has gifted boxes away to folks.

     

    JDKinman

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    I've been sorting. Russ the last few days and got to thinking is sorting by brand really that important for plinking ammo?

    I know volumes and all can be different but with a load on the safer side of things is it really necessary?

    For my precision hunting loads, I not only sort by brand, but keep them separated by how many times loaded and fired before I annealed them. For plinking ammo or the powder puff loads I make for the 30-30, I mix and match and don't think twice. While I have a 5.56mm rifle, I really do not like the caliber and hate reloading for it, so I don't bother separating the brass.

    In handgun calibers, I keep my .44 Special brass separated by headstamp along with any other calibers that I load specifically for carry/self-defense ammunition. All else is for plinking and having the headstamps mixed affects nothing.
     
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