Spotlight Keeps Blowing Fuse

[bertizzie89]

cut the plug, t-Tap it to the cig plug wires you got there and fuse it, that way you can still remove it when needed.

 

[35Remington]

cut the plug, t-Tap it to the cig plug wires you got there and fuse it, that way you can still remove it when needed.

Is is possible to dumb that down a bit? I googled a t-tap, so I think I know what that is now. But when you say fuse it, do you mean add an inline fuse after the t-tapped positive lead and before the spotlight? What amperage? Spade-type fuses like I've been using ok? Do I keep the fuse that's near the battery and bump down to a 15amp?

Sorry for all the questions, just want to make sure I measure twice and cut once. Or I guess measure three times and cut twice, given the mistakes already made.

 

[Vaquero]

Keep the fuse under the hood, take it down to 10 amp. Make the best unfused connection you can in the cab while keeping it removable. The factory type polarized that TRN mentioned would be good, as long as the wire gauge is #16 or larger. (wire is like shotgun, higher # = smaller diameter)
A loose connection in the original lighter plug likely created the heat and led to a short in the plug/fuse holder.

 

[TexasRedneck]

cut the plug, t-Tap it to the cig plug wires you got there and fuse it, that way you can still remove it when needed.

If by "T-Tap" you mean one of those type that you "clamp" on a wire where they cut through the insulation and into the wire itself...with all due respect kindly NEVER call yourself ANY kind of "electrician". Those things are infamous for shorting out and weakening wires, because they nick the wire you're tapping into, weakening it.

"T-Taps" have been the bain of real electrical people, because they're used in applications they should never get close to. Can't tell you how many wire harnesses I've had to go in and rework because some asshat used 'em.

 

[TexasRedneck]

35 Remington - where are you located?

 

[Vaquero]

If by "T-Tap" you mean one of those type that you "clamp" on a wire where they cut through the insulation and into the wire itself...with all due respect kindly NEVER call yourself ANY kind of "electrician". Those things are infamous for shorting out and weakening wires, because they nick the wire you're tapping into, weakening it.

"T-Taps" have been the bain of real electrical people, because they're used in applications they should never get close to. Can't tell you how many wire harnesses I've had to go in and rework because some asshat used 'em.

+1

 

[bertizzie89]

never had a problem with a T-Tap, you simply make a slit in the wire and clamp it over. never had a car burn down or anything. if that were the case i doubt 3M would make them and sell so many. i also doubt custom sounds and most car shops would use them on remote starts or alarms. yes the best connection is a solder and tape, but he wants it to be removable, and with an inline fuse from the t tap to the light there is no problem. ive done plenty T-Tap alarms and remote starts when i worked at best buy, then they converted to solder and tape only. but yes i do know of people that cut the insulation off about an inch wide where the t tap just needs a slit to make contact, that could cause a wire to ground out, but if you use them correctly(proper size) he will be fine.

 

[TexasRedneck]

ive done plenty T-Tap alarms and remote starts when i worked at best buy, then they converted to solder and tape only.

And why do you think they went to solder an' tape only??? Because of the lawsuits an' damage claims they paid out when those POS t-taps failed. Sorry - but if you think havin' a pocket full of t-taps makes you an electrician, you do NOT understand electrical work. The only reason they have ANY marketability is because most places bet that by the time they fail, the poor schmuck they installed 'em for won't remember who did it. You put a t-tap on any of MY vehicles, you'd best be runnin' when I see 'em.

Sorry to be busting on you like this, but again - if you think they're ANY kind of "good" or "safe" product to use, you're sadly mistaken, and need to be educated on electricity. ANY splice is a potential source of problem, because a loose or corroded connection will become a source of heat. That heat is generated because of the resistance to electrical flow - and unless properly protected by a fuse, will result in a fire. The "fun" is trying to find a t-tap in a wiring bundle when you start popping fuses at night in the middle of a pasture.

I run all my own wiring harnesses - both at the house, on control panels, in my vehicles and bikes. Ask my boys about the wiring harnesses on my motorcycles.....my current Harley Ultra has over 250' of aftermarket wiring on it, with over a dozen extra circuits, each run on its' own fused sub-circuit. I run everything from LED strobes to stereo amps an' auxillary lighting with 'em. I've never had a circuit fail on any of 'em - they're ALL soldered or crimped, depending on current load and/or location/purpose.

 

[bertizzie89]

And why do you think they went to solder an' tape only??? Because of the lawsuits an' damage claims they paid out when those POS t-taps failed. Sorry - but if you think havin' a pocket full of t-taps makes you an electrician, you do NOT understand electrical work. The only reason they have ANY marketability is because most places bet that by the time they fail, the poor schmuck they installed 'em for won't remember who did it. You put a t-tap on any of MY vehicles, you'd best be runnin' when I see 'em.

Sorry to be busting on you like this, but again - if you think they're ANY kind of "good" or "safe" product to use, you're sadly mistaken, and need to be educated on electricity. ANY splice is a potential source of problem, because a loose or corroded connection will become a source of heat. That heat is generated because of the resistance to electrical flow - and unless properly protected by a fuse, will result in a fire. The "fun" is trying to find a t-tap in a wiring bundle when you start popping fuses at night in the middle of a pasture.

I run all my own wiring harnesses - both at the house, on control panels, in my vehicles and bikes. Ask my boys about the wiring harnesses on my motorcycles.....my current Harley Ultra has over 250' of aftermarket wiring on it, with over a dozen extra circuits, each run on its' own fused sub-circuit. I run everything from LED strobes to stereo amps an' auxillary lighting with 'em. I've never had a circuit fail on any of 'em - they're ALL soldered or crimped, depending on current load and/or location/purpose.

yes i know its because solder and tape is the best way to go, not saying it is not. all im saying is that for his aplication, and what he needs to use it for he should not have an issue. he could always buy another plug and solder that on also, that would be best. i was simply stating that t-taps were one option. i dont think t-taps make me an installer by any means, my mecp certification, and jobs i put out make me an installer. ive never had one alarm or remote start come back. hell i never actually use t taps now because the shop im at lets me solder and tape. best buy didnt allow us at first because of time restrictions. but the way hes got that wire straight to the battery, fused, he should not have an issue plugging it in while hes out hunting, so long as no bare wire is left explosed!

 

[TexasRedneck]

that wire straight to the battery, fused, he should not have an issue plugging it in while hes out hunting, so long as no bare wire is left explosed!

Actually, he will - a lighter socket is one of the worst ways to run any high-draw circuit. And a 10-amp circuit is NOT one, IMO, which is suitable for a line-tap connection.

Now....I'm not mecp certified. The US Navy did decide that I could pass the BE&E school....and I've run everything from 27-circuit panels with lock-out relays to simple 24-circuit, 220 vac sub-panels. Helps that my Dad was an electrical engineer w/RCA for quite a few years, and figgered if HE knew it, I needed to, too!<G>

 

[bertizzie89]

Actually, he will - a lighter socket is one of the worst ways to run any high-draw circuit. And a 10-amp circuit is NOT one, IMO, which is suitable for a line-tap connection.

Now....I'm not mecp certified. The US Navy did decide that I could pass the BE&E school....and I've run everything from 27-circuit panels with lock-out relays to simple 24-circuit, 220 vac sub-panels. Helps that my Dad was an electrical engineer w/RCA for quite a few years, and figgered if HE knew it, I needed to, too!<G>

im not saying run a high draw circuit off of the cig plug, thats probably what caused his problem in the first place. im saying to use those wires hes got sitting there, the ones hes got plugged into that cig plug he added. he could always use those screw on female/male plugs and run it directly to the battery, fused.

I wasnt throwing my mecp certification out there as a way to say i know more, because mecp honestly means horse doo doo, its all experience. hell you probably know a hell lot more than me! Im just saying when I had my f350 i ran spot lights tapped into the cig plug wires under the dash, why? because i had the same problem with the original plug blowing fuses and melting. so i did not want to loose my plug, mainly because of my cell phone charger. but when i did have the light plugged in i never had one problem after i cut that dang plug off! it wasnt a high powered spot light or nothin, just one that would light up the quarry's that we were working in!

 

[35Remington]

Speaking of live wires, I think we might need a fire extinguisher in this thread!

Just kidding. I'm drinking from a fire hydrant over here. Lots to process. Thank you all, esp TexasRedNeck and bertizzie89, for the help. TRN, PM inbound.

 

[Radioman93]

As long as the power wire to the battery is 12ga or larger (I would use 10ga personally) then all you should have to do is attach a connector type that is designed to handle the current you are asking of it and put the corresponding connector on cable from the light (make sure to check polarity before making the final connections) and you should be good to go.

If you want I'll make a drawing up and some quick directions on how to verify polarity without a multimeter after dinner and getting a few things done here at home.

Radioman

 

[35Remington]

As long as the power wire to the battery is 12ga or larger (I would use 10ga personally) then all you should have to do is attach a connector type that is designed to handle the current you are asking of it and put the corresponding connector on cable from the light (make sure to check polarity before making the final connections) and you should be good to go.

If you want I'll make a drawing up and some quick directions on how to verify polarity without a multimeter after dinner and getting a few things done here at home.

Radioman

That would be great. Thanks, man.

 

[35Remington]

multimeter is your friend.

I have a multimeter and will go poke around tonight. Can you tell me what I need to test for?