cut the plug, t-Tap it to the cig plug wires you got there and fuse it, that way you can still remove it when needed.
cut the plug, t-Tap it to the cig plug wires you got there and fuse it, that way you can still remove it when needed.
If by "T-Tap" you mean one of those type that you "clamp" on a wire where they cut through the insulation and into the wire itself...with all due respect kindly NEVER call yourself ANY kind of "electrician". Those things are infamous for shorting out and weakening wires, because they nick the wire you're tapping into, weakening it.
"T-Taps" have been the bain of real electrical people, because they're used in applications they should never get close to. Can't tell you how many wire harnesses I've had to go in and rework because some asshat used 'em.
ive done plenty T-Tap alarms and remote starts when i worked at best buy, then they converted to solder and tape only.
yes i know its because solder and tape is the best way to go, not saying it is not. all im saying is that for his aplication, and what he needs to use it for he should not have an issue. he could always buy another plug and solder that on also, that would be best. i was simply stating that t-taps were one option. i dont think t-taps make me an installer by any means, my mecp certification, and jobs i put out make me an installer. ive never had one alarm or remote start come back. hell i never actually use t taps now because the shop im at lets me solder and tape. best buy didnt allow us at first because of time restrictions. but the way hes got that wire straight to the battery, fused, he should not have an issue plugging it in while hes out hunting, so long as no bare wire is left explosed!And why do you think they went to solder an' tape only??? Because of the lawsuits an' damage claims they paid out when those POS t-taps failed. Sorry - but if you think havin' a pocket full of t-taps makes you an electrician, you do NOT understand electrical work. The only reason they have ANY marketability is because most places bet that by the time they fail, the poor schmuck they installed 'em for won't remember who did it. You put a t-tap on any of MY vehicles, you'd best be runnin' when I see 'em.
Sorry to be busting on you like this, but again - if you think they're ANY kind of "good" or "safe" product to use, you're sadly mistaken, and need to be educated on electricity. ANY splice is a potential source of problem, because a loose or corroded connection will become a source of heat. That heat is generated because of the resistance to electrical flow - and unless properly protected by a fuse, will result in a fire. The "fun" is trying to find a t-tap in a wiring bundle when you start popping fuses at night in the middle of a pasture.
I run all my own wiring harnesses - both at the house, on control panels, in my vehicles and bikes. Ask my boys about the wiring harnesses on my motorcycles.....my current Harley Ultra has over 250' of aftermarket wiring on it, with over a dozen extra circuits, each run on its' own fused sub-circuit. I run everything from LED strobes to stereo amps an' auxillary lighting with 'em. I've never had a circuit fail on any of 'em - they're ALL soldered or crimped, depending on current load and/or location/purpose.
that wire straight to the battery, fused, he should not have an issue plugging it in while hes out hunting, so long as no bare wire is left explosed!
im not saying run a high draw circuit off of the cig plug, thats probably what caused his problem in the first place. im saying to use those wires hes got sitting there, the ones hes got plugged into that cig plug he added. he could always use those screw on female/male plugs and run it directly to the battery, fused.Actually, he will - a lighter socket is one of the worst ways to run any high-draw circuit. And a 10-amp circuit is NOT one, IMO, which is suitable for a line-tap connection.
Now....I'm not mecp certified. The US Navy did decide that I could pass the BE&E school....and I've run everything from 27-circuit panels with lock-out relays to simple 24-circuit, 220 vac sub-panels. Helps that my Dad was an electrical engineer w/RCA for quite a few years, and figgered if HE knew it, I needed to, too!<G>
As long as the power wire to the battery is 12ga or larger (I would use 10ga personally) then all you should have to do is attach a connector type that is designed to handle the current you are asking of it and put the corresponding connector on cable from the light (make sure to check polarity before making the final connections) and you should be good to go.
If you want I'll make a drawing up and some quick directions on how to verify polarity without a multimeter after dinner and getting a few things done here at home.
Radioman
multimeter is your friend.