TT-33 Curio and Relic

[Hawghauler]

[url]http://www.aimsurplus.com/acatalog/Romanian_TT-33_7.62x25_Pistol.html[/URL]

I have never shot one of these, but I do have the Cz-52 and the 7.62x25 is a stout contender for one of the loudest handguns I own. A good deal for you C&R holders as it will go up in value and the surplus ammo is very cheap. Aim Surplus is a great company.

 

[MadMo44Mag]

Thanks Hawg!

 

[Hawghauler]

Let us know when the BBT arrives with your treat!

 

[res1b3uq]

I don't think I have ever seen one of those that cheap, Not in that condition, anyway.

 

[Lobo_79]

[url]http://www.aimsurplus.com/acatalog/Romanian_TT-33_7.62x25_Pistol.html[/URL]

I have never shot one of these, but I do have the Cz-52 and the 7.62x25 is a stout contender for one of the loudest handguns I own. A good deal for you C&R holders as it will go up in value and the surplus ammo is very cheap. Aim Surplus is a great company.

I was beginning to think I was the last remaining person to own one of these beauties. This caliber develops some serious velocity/energy.

 

[Hawghauler]

I was beginning to think I was the last remaining person to own one of these beauties. This caliber develops some serious velocity/energy.

How does yours shoot?

 

[Lobo_79]

How does yours shoot?

Accurate, loud, and corrosive. These have to be cleaned well because the ammo is really corrosive.

It shoots like a 1911.

 

[Hawghauler]

Here are ips for cleaning corrosive ammo. This is from Dennis Kroh of Empire arms:

How to properly clean after using corrosive ammo​

This is how I do it... it's easy, it's fast, and it's effective. Best of all you can do it while still on the firing-line and thus not offend your significant other with the usually pungent stench of commercial cleaners in your home.
Dilute regular household ammonia (sudsy is best but regular is OK too) to 2/1 or 3/1 with water (it can be as much as 10/1 if the smell really gets to you). Keep in a small bottle to take with you to the range but label it well so you don't mistake it for contact-lens solution or something (yeeeowww!)
After you are done firing and while still at the range moisten (not dripping-wet, but sorta-soaked) a patch and run it down the bore and back once. This instantly will neutralize and dissolve the corrosive salt-compounds from the primers and start in on the copper and powder fouling with a vengeance.
Let stand for thirty seconds or so (just enough time to take off and throw away the ammonia-patch you just used and put a new, dry patch on your rod). Run the dry patch (or several) down the bore and you are most literally done.
DON'T OVERDO IT! More ISN'T better in this case...
You really don't want to slop ammonia (especially if heavily concentrated) all over the blued parts of the gun (as it will likely start to remove bluing after 30 minutes or so) and you also shouldn't leave the ammonia in the bore for an extended period of time (like hours, although I do know folks who do that anyway) as that may (not WILL, but MAY) cause "crazing" (microscopic pitting) of the metal. I also have to caution against slopping ammonia on the wooden parts of your rifle, as it will usually strip the finish down to bare-wood, BUT if you follow my advise on HOW MUCH ammonia to use (only enough to dampen, but not soak, a single patch per gun) you will not EVER experience ANY problems at all...
If you are worried about primer residue getting on the bolt-face you may want to quickly wipe it with the wet patch before throwing the thing away and quickly dry it. Same thing with the gas-tube in a semi-automatic rifle... don't go overboard, just wet it and dry it and get done with it.
As a final precaution (since the ammonia will also kill all lubricants and leave the metal very dry) you can run a patch of gun-oil down the bore and leave it like that for protection from the elements (just be sure to run a dry patch down the bore before shooting it again).
I've been cleaning guns this way (including *every* gun we sell) for nearly thirty years, and have never had rust form in any bore (even here in humid Florida).
However, if you are (like some folks I have met) completely obsessed about leaving traces of ANY powder or copper residue in the bore of your weapon, you can certainly follow up your "field-cleaning" with a detailed, strenuous, traditional cleaning once you are home (or in a week or month from then). But I warn you... your bore is much more be likely to be damaged from your over-enthusiastic scrubbing to get out that "last speck of copper" (which has no affect on the actual accuracy of your firearm) than it will with all the rounds you could possibly send down it during your lifetime.

 

[M. Sage]

Mr. Tokarev "borrowed" heavily from the 1911 for this pistol, so I wouldn't be surprised that it shoots like a 1911.

The biggest flash I've found is with Wolf ammo. It's not corrosive, either. BTW, the FMJ stuff will defeat most bullet proof vests.

ETA: I don't agree 100% with the above "how-to". You don't need ammonia to clean up after corrosive ammo. All you need is water, though it works better when it's hot and soap helps even more. Simply clean any part of the gun that sees powder residue with hot, soapy water, dry then clean and oil normally. You don't have to use ammonia, though ammonia does help a little with copper fouling.

The cause of the corrosion with this ammo is because of a compound used in the primers - potassium chlorate. When it burns, it gives up some chlorine and turns into potassium chloride, which is what they de-ice roads and destroy cars and trucks with up in the rust belt. It's simply a salt and therefore water soluble. Hot water allows you to dissolve more of it and makes drying easier, and soap destroys the surface tension of water, allowing it to clean into tiny and microscopic nooks and crannies more easily. The ammonia thing comes from the use of ammonia in old military cleaners, but that was only there for getting rid of copper and maybe lead fouling. Because old military ammo everywhere used corrosive primers (and before that blackpowder was used which is also corrosive), people have associated the ammo with the cleaner and jumped to a conclusion.

 

[Lobo_79]

Mr. Tokarev "borrowed" heavily from the 1911 for this pistol, so I wouldn't be surprised that it shoots like a 1911.

The biggest flash I've found is with Wolf ammo. It's not corrosive, either. BTW, the FMJ stuff will defeat most bullet proof vests. ...

I'll try some of the Wolf ammo. Thanks for that tip.

 

[M. Sage]

Wolf Gold is reloadable, too. As far as the FMJ vs Kevlar, that applies to pretty much any FMJ in that caliber, and probably the HP, too. All of the military FMJ I've found has been jacketed with steel plated with copper.