Then again....
What does it cost to get started in reloading?
- Thread starter Higgins909
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Aus_Schwaben
First to know - Last to care!
You can get started fairly inexpensively with the Lee Loaders. You can set them up in a couple of minutes on your kitchen table. I picked up three at a gun show in November for $5 each but they run $40 on Ebay.
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The Lee Breech Lock Hand Press takes all of the great features of the Lee Hand Held Press and adds Lee's convenient Breech Lock System that allows...
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GasGuzzler
Active Member
The people exaggerating the cost likely aren't hand loaders. Unfortunately, your question does not have an answer as it's too broad.
You can get started making small batches of one cartridge for $100 PLUS SUPPLIES. Hopefully you have your previously enjoyed brass so you will need powder and primers. Once you run out of bullets you can cast your own but that's a new ball game. A basic casting set up for one cartridge could also cost $100 or less.
You can get started making small batches of one cartridge for $100 PLUS SUPPLIES. Hopefully you have your previously enjoyed brass so you will need powder and primers. Once you run out of bullets you can cast your own but that's a new ball game. A basic casting set up for one cartridge could also cost $100 or less.
Lonesome Dove
A man of vision but with no mission.
Buy used , save tons, load for decades.
Face book market place has lots to choose from. RCBS or Hornady single stage would be all you need.
Face book market place has lots to choose from. RCBS or Hornady single stage would be all you need.
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To only answer your question simply is not simple. First, to get into reloading... Lee Loaders is a simple and effective way. It is a die that the brass is pounded into and primer inserted, the set includes a powder scoop that is sized for certain powders, the bullet is seated and poof a round exists (simplified version of events). Many people got started that way and some carry one on hunting trips with powder, primers and bullets just in case it is needed. One can go from there with Lee handloading presses, Lyman, Dillon, RCBS, and others that is basis machine, then dies are needed, lube pads, scale to weigh powder charges.
Also one of the most over looked but can save a blown up gun, is case sizing gauges, These allow you to drop a resized case into and quickly discover if you have not only the correct overall length, but in the case of bottleneck cases, if you set the shoulder back too far or not enough. This event can result in case separations or not allowing bolt to close. The over sized brass mimics bad headspace and can and will cause real problems. This simple tool is not to be ignored for bottleneck cases.
Micrometers to measure the overall loaded length, or the length of sized brass, the bullet diameter and other things is nice and in my experience essential. Powder, bullets and primers of course are needed.
You mention being around a source of lead. You do not mention what kind of lead. For GODS SAKE do not use automotive lead battery lead! Wheel weighs works fine, also lead flashing from roof is ok but needs to be alloyed with tin. Casting bullets is dangerous but not if you take simple precautions. STAY AWAY from water in casting area. A smelting pot, bullet molds, welding gloves and eye protection, I suggest leather welders apron to protect from splash and spills of molten lead. Casting thermometer, bullet lube and is wanted a bullet sizer lube machine.
First thig is a good manual on casting Lyman has several good intro books. For reloading, a relaoding manual from Lyman, RCBS, Sierra or others is a good place to start before even buying anything.....
Also one of the most over looked but can save a blown up gun, is case sizing gauges, These allow you to drop a resized case into and quickly discover if you have not only the correct overall length, but in the case of bottleneck cases, if you set the shoulder back too far or not enough. This event can result in case separations or not allowing bolt to close. The over sized brass mimics bad headspace and can and will cause real problems. This simple tool is not to be ignored for bottleneck cases.
Micrometers to measure the overall loaded length, or the length of sized brass, the bullet diameter and other things is nice and in my experience essential. Powder, bullets and primers of course are needed.
You mention being around a source of lead. You do not mention what kind of lead. For GODS SAKE do not use automotive lead battery lead! Wheel weighs works fine, also lead flashing from roof is ok but needs to be alloyed with tin. Casting bullets is dangerous but not if you take simple precautions. STAY AWAY from water in casting area. A smelting pot, bullet molds, welding gloves and eye protection, I suggest leather welders apron to protect from splash and spills of molten lead. Casting thermometer, bullet lube and is wanted a bullet sizer lube machine.
First thig is a good manual on casting Lyman has several good intro books. For reloading, a relaoding manual from Lyman, RCBS, Sierra or others is a good place to start before even buying anything.....
GasGuzzler
Active Member
I built a PID with a digital thermometer probe for my casting pot. It was only when I got rid of all that I started casting better bullets. Also don't need any bullet lube if you powder coat which is simpler and cheaper than lubing...and a toaster oven is cheaper than a lube-sizer. I have never worn gloves or an apron when casting bullets. The fastest and cheapest way to size bullets is with a Lee APP...which is fairly cheap. Not all cast bullets have to be sized depending on the gun and what diameter the mold drops.
I chuckle at a friend and fellow hand loader. He spends a lot of time polishing his used brass. It looks great but it has no benefits over brass that is dull. Used brass does need to be cleaned (I use an ultrasonic cleaner) but the extra time and effort of polishing the cleaned brass does nothing for the accuracy, etc.
I started reloading in 2017. I with the classic hornady kit which was around $300. Ive added about $5-600 worth of improvements such as a chargemaster and a powered trimmer. Not sure how much money I have spent on dies but its alot. Without those improvements reloading would be possible but would be a giant pain in the ass
I dont load in bulk so my return on this investment is sub moa hunting rounds. Id like to personally thank Ruger for giving me two Ruger Americans that group factory ammo like a modified choke shotgun spread because that is what started me down this reloading road
The biggest issue you are going to run into is finding primers. Id be more concerned with sourcing them first
I dont load in bulk so my return on this investment is sub moa hunting rounds. Id like to personally thank Ruger for giving me two Ruger Americans that group factory ammo like a modified choke shotgun spread because that is what started me down this reloading road
The biggest issue you are going to run into is finding primers. Id be more concerned with sourcing them first
scattergun6
Active Member
Lots of good recommendations here, some prejudices, and hopefully the beginnings of an answer to your broad question. Allow me to add my two cents:
I began handloading more than 40 years ago with a used RCBS press and dies, a new balance beam scale and powder measure, and a few accessories - lubricating pad, chamfering tool, etc.
In my opinion, the most important tool to start with is a current reloading guidebook. All of the major bullet and powder manufactures offer them - the recommendation for the ABCs of Reloading is a great idea. You can also find excellent information online from Accurate, Hodgdon, Hornady, Speer, Lyman, etc. Start by reading, learning the vernacular, and understand the required steps involved to create your own ammo.
Get a subscription to Handloader magazine, either in print or online. Excellent info.
I have possibly used every brand of reloading equipment offered. I have used Lee loaders - these devices, while cheap and robust, take a long time to effectively create loaded rounds. I've used them, appreciate what they can do, but quickly moved on to a bench-mounted press and never looked back. I've used many different brands of presses - currently settled on an RCBS Rock Chucker...stout, durable, almost foolproof. I've used Lee presses but find them to be lightweight and "flexy." I prefer something heavier. RCBS, Forster, Lyman, Redding, Hornady....lots of good equipment out there. Many of these brands offer a comprehensive reloading kit - will get you started and help you to learn while showing what additional accessories you want or need.
I have owned and used a Dillon progressive reloader, and it can make a lot of good rounds very quickly - Dillon makes excellent gear but it is comparatively expensive, takes time to set up, and will very quickly allow you to make a bunch of defective rounds if you aren't careful...(learned my lesson the hard way). I would not recommend starting with a high-speed progressive reloader until you are very familiar with the basics of reloading, and have a lot of experience with powder dispensing, primer seating, bullet selection and seating...lots of things to know.
I love Lee dies and use them along with RCBS, Lyman, Dillon and Redding. Lots of choices in dies. Read about case lubrication, carbide dies, collet dies and neck resizing vice full length resizing...
Case trimming can become very important if you are reloading bottlenecked rifle rounds...I've used a couple of types of trimmers, and highly recommend the Little Crow World's Finest Trimmer variations for different cartridge families. Fast, efficient, powerful.
Save your brass and reuse it - I'm reloading .45 ACP brass that I collected up many years ago...it's a low-pressure round and brass lasts forever. Brass must be cleaned in order to avoid damaging your dies - I tumble clean and also use a sonic cleaner to clean brass. I also tumble polish my brass to a bright shine - not necessary, as previously pointed out but I like my ammo to look like jewelry when I'm finished, it makes me appreciate the process and the product. Your choice.
I once purchased a lead melting pot, never used it, and sold it off, never really needing or wanting to cast my own bullets. Some guys love it, accumulating lots of bullet molds and accessories. It can be dangerous, is messy, and you should have a dedicated spot to do it where you can make smoke, drip molten lead, and stay safe while doing it...in my opinion, it is easier to buy bullets, jacketed or hard cast, swaged, and a "big thumbs up" for powder coated bullets. (Look at thebluebullets.com) There are others...
As mentioned earlier, the real challenge will be in finding components...powder, primers, some brass and some bullets...lots of vendors online offer reloading supplies and equipment. Keep your eyes open for components you may need, either now or in the future. Trading with other handloaders is also a great way to get what you need and help another enthusiast in the process.
I'm sure there are things I have missed. Get one or more reloading handbooks, or go online, and start reading...ask questions, find an experienced handloader and sit side-saddle to learn.
I'm an avid shooter and gun collector but have truthfully admitted that I sometimes shoot so that I can reload the brass with another powder recipe and bullet and try a different bullet seating depth, and....it is a hobby in and of itself, and once the initial cost of equipment is recouped, will allow you to shoot more for the same amount of money you now spend on factory ammo.
Best of luck with your exploration of handloading, and have fun!
I began handloading more than 40 years ago with a used RCBS press and dies, a new balance beam scale and powder measure, and a few accessories - lubricating pad, chamfering tool, etc.
In my opinion, the most important tool to start with is a current reloading guidebook. All of the major bullet and powder manufactures offer them - the recommendation for the ABCs of Reloading is a great idea. You can also find excellent information online from Accurate, Hodgdon, Hornady, Speer, Lyman, etc. Start by reading, learning the vernacular, and understand the required steps involved to create your own ammo.
Get a subscription to Handloader magazine, either in print or online. Excellent info.
I have possibly used every brand of reloading equipment offered. I have used Lee loaders - these devices, while cheap and robust, take a long time to effectively create loaded rounds. I've used them, appreciate what they can do, but quickly moved on to a bench-mounted press and never looked back. I've used many different brands of presses - currently settled on an RCBS Rock Chucker...stout, durable, almost foolproof. I've used Lee presses but find them to be lightweight and "flexy." I prefer something heavier. RCBS, Forster, Lyman, Redding, Hornady....lots of good equipment out there. Many of these brands offer a comprehensive reloading kit - will get you started and help you to learn while showing what additional accessories you want or need.
I have owned and used a Dillon progressive reloader, and it can make a lot of good rounds very quickly - Dillon makes excellent gear but it is comparatively expensive, takes time to set up, and will very quickly allow you to make a bunch of defective rounds if you aren't careful...(learned my lesson the hard way). I would not recommend starting with a high-speed progressive reloader until you are very familiar with the basics of reloading, and have a lot of experience with powder dispensing, primer seating, bullet selection and seating...lots of things to know.
I love Lee dies and use them along with RCBS, Lyman, Dillon and Redding. Lots of choices in dies. Read about case lubrication, carbide dies, collet dies and neck resizing vice full length resizing...
Case trimming can become very important if you are reloading bottlenecked rifle rounds...I've used a couple of types of trimmers, and highly recommend the Little Crow World's Finest Trimmer variations for different cartridge families. Fast, efficient, powerful.
Save your brass and reuse it - I'm reloading .45 ACP brass that I collected up many years ago...it's a low-pressure round and brass lasts forever. Brass must be cleaned in order to avoid damaging your dies - I tumble clean and also use a sonic cleaner to clean brass. I also tumble polish my brass to a bright shine - not necessary, as previously pointed out but I like my ammo to look like jewelry when I'm finished, it makes me appreciate the process and the product. Your choice.
I once purchased a lead melting pot, never used it, and sold it off, never really needing or wanting to cast my own bullets. Some guys love it, accumulating lots of bullet molds and accessories. It can be dangerous, is messy, and you should have a dedicated spot to do it where you can make smoke, drip molten lead, and stay safe while doing it...in my opinion, it is easier to buy bullets, jacketed or hard cast, swaged, and a "big thumbs up" for powder coated bullets. (Look at thebluebullets.com) There are others...
As mentioned earlier, the real challenge will be in finding components...powder, primers, some brass and some bullets...lots of vendors online offer reloading supplies and equipment. Keep your eyes open for components you may need, either now or in the future. Trading with other handloaders is also a great way to get what you need and help another enthusiast in the process.
I'm sure there are things I have missed. Get one or more reloading handbooks, or go online, and start reading...ask questions, find an experienced handloader and sit side-saddle to learn.
I'm an avid shooter and gun collector but have truthfully admitted that I sometimes shoot so that I can reload the brass with another powder recipe and bullet and try a different bullet seating depth, and....it is a hobby in and of itself, and once the initial cost of equipment is recouped, will allow you to shoot more for the same amount of money you now spend on factory ammo.
Best of luck with your exploration of handloading, and have fun!
I bought an RCBS press in 1978 and I'm still using it today. The beam balance scale was replaced with an electronic one and I've added a few accessories. Before purchasing equipment, it would be a help to read a reloading manual and find a reloader with a few years experience.
Don't forget!
Get a few good Manuals (used is fine). Watch some vids! (David Tubb, Brian Enos...etc) on reloading
Then? Watch for USED! Yard/estate/divorce SALES! The bulletin board at your gun club. My LGS get used reloading stuff regularly.
Hope this helps.
Get a few good Manuals (used is fine). Watch some vids! (David Tubb, Brian Enos...etc) on reloading
Then? Watch for USED! Yard/estate/divorce SALES! The bulletin board at your gun club. My LGS get used reloading stuff regularly.
Hope this helps.
Austinpilot69
Member
Lee turret kit is a great place to start - and if you realize you enjoy it, you’ll quickly upgrade your equipment and add more to fit your needs. I wish I could say how much it would cost to “get into it” but even after reloading for a while I’m constantly upgrading or swapping equipment to fit my changing needs.
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I see on your profile that you live in Hutto. I live in Mustang Ridge which is not too far from you. If you want to load some, you are welcome to try out my setup with your supplies before you make the plunge. I have single stage Rock Chucker and a Dillon 650. I would advise against a progressive press for your first. Learn each step, then you will be able to “run” at your own pace. Half Price books is a good source for used manuals. Best advice ever, get several manuals and read them.
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Brother, you are not alone.
As I have gotten older, picking up brass has become the worse part of reloading.
