What gun stuff did you buy today?

[Vaquero]

^3.2/round is solid!

Nope. Says "hollow point" on the box.

 

[kbaxter60]

You're going to need some stuff to shoot it.
1.) Powder - You can use blackpowder substitute like Pyrodex, 777, etc. or real blackpowder.
The real stuff is getting difficult to find locally. I prefer real BP over the subs.
The only disadvantage, IMO, is clean up is a little more scrubby when using the subs.
2.) bullets - use pure lead roundballs. These are easy to find. They're a little pricey to buy.
Your gun will need .454 diameter balls.
3.) percussion caps - these come in several sizes. The most common sizes are #10 and #11. You'll have to figure out which one fits best on your revolvers nipples. You want a good snug fit. Buy a can of each size and see what works best. Cap fit is very important as it prevents chain fires(several chambers going off at once). I prefer the Remington brand caps because they're made from thicker metal and don't obliterate into tiny pieces on discharge. These tiny pieces can and do get down into the lockwork binding up and dead lining the gun. This requires a complete tear down to clean them out. The CCI brand caps are the ones to avoid.
4.) Lubricated wads - these are placed between the powder and ball when loading. All they do is keep the powder fouling soft and the gun running. If you shoot the gun dry, without lube, it will bind up after a few shots and require tear down to wipe off the arbor so the cylinder can turn. BP fouling is like gummy dirt. It builds up fast. Even with wads you'll have to wipe off the arbor after three or four cylinders fired. Another way to do this is to smear grease/lube over the mouth of each chamber after loading the balls. This works but damn it is messy as hell. Lube gets splattered everywhere. On you, in your hair, on your glasses, all over the table and any gear laying there.
5.) Nipple wrench - these are easy to find. Just get a couple of them. Before you even go shooting the first time, remove the nipples on your cylinder, lube the threads with copper anti-seize or shotgun choke lube, and re-install the nipples. Lots of old guns are kaput because the nipples are rusted in place. Use penetrating oil to work the nipples loose if they're stuck. Don't crank down on them either just a firm snug twist is as tight as they need to be.
6.) Powder measure - these are easy to find. Get an adjustable brass one. They're not expensive. They come in different sizes so get on for a revolver. A handy tip. Lets say your revolver likes a load of 37 grains of powder. Get a couple of rifle cases like a .223 or .243. Pour 37grains of powder into the rifle case. Mark the level on the case and cut it off with a hacksaw. Now you have a quick and easy powder loading tool.
Remember you will need to clean after each shooting session ASAP. BP residue rusts quick.
You need to clean with hot water and soap. Then dry completely and then oil with your favorite gun oil. Just remember to clean all the oil out before shooting the nest time.

Wow! Thanks @Moonpie for all the helpful info.
1) Yes, it came with a (looks unopened) full bottle of Pyrodex. Marked "P", "The FFFG Equivalent", whatever that means. Does powder have a shelf-life?
2) It came with some bullets. About half look new, cast. The others have a dull exterior, probably older. Does lead have a shelf-life?
3) Came with CCI size #10. I guess I can start with those and see how they work.
4) It did come with two types of wads. One says it is wool and has lube on it. The others, I am not so sure, but there is a little can of "patch grease", so maybe I can use that to add lube to them. It is made of sheep tallow and smells yummy. I guess we can eat it if the food runs out...
5) It has two tools and I think one must be the nipple wrench. The other is long, brass, and has a little pincer end on it. A spring-loaded latch on the other end.
6) I think I found the powder measure. It was already set on the second notch indicator and I am still trying to read the inscription. It left the other end with an opening about the size of a .380 case. I am looking for any instructions for this pistol that would say if that is the recommended setting. Let me say here that I don't intend to shoot this unti I am reasonably sure of what I am doing.

ETA: the inscriptions are "05" and "10" before that second mark. I would estimate it's set on about "12", as it's a tad past the second mark.

Remaining questions: I have heard of "chain fires", so I am wondering if, getting started, I should load and fire ONE cylinder only?
It's got a "half moon" cutout on the right side of the receiver. Is that for installing the caps?
It has the built-in "ramrod" (not sure if that's correct). I think it's for seating the bullet, but I don't know how much force you're supposed to apply? It's also got what looks like a handheld "ramrod". Does that have some other use? Clearing a squib? Attaching a cleaning brush? Just for when I might need it?

Thanks again for the help. This is completely new to me.

 

[jrbfishn]

The pincer tool is to put caps on the nipples for clumsy people. Most don't need it. Kind of a pain and I don't even have one.
If it is a .36 cal., 18-25 grns of powder are normal. For a .44, most shoot between 23grns and 30 grns. The brass cartridge looking tool with the graduated rod is your powder measure. I use 15grns of powder for a mouse load or snake shot.
Pics of the loose tools would help identify them.
Seating the ball..... measure and pour in the powder, place a lubed wad on top, place ball on in the hole and spin the cylinder to place it under the ram with the spru cut-off facing up. It takes a bit of pressure as it should shave a very light ring of lead. Seat it until it stops but you don't have to stand on it. As long as the powder is compacted enough to not be loose you are good. Once you have all 6, place a cap on each nipple. You are ready to shoot. Pyrodex and Black Powder use the same measurement. Tripple 7 uses 20% les by volume. 25grns of BP would equal 20grns of Tripple 7.
No, the balls are good. Other than color, you could use 100 yr old lead balls and be just fine.
They are messy and foul quickly. Lots of WD40 or hot soapy water for cleanup. I clean mine with WD40 and leave a liberal amount on it after it is clean to prevent corrosion. Other methods work too. Just make sure you do not store it dry. It WILL rust. Quickly.
They are fun though.

Sent by an idjit coffeeholic from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[Moonpie]

Wow! Thanks @Moonpie for all the helpful info.
1) Yes, it came with a (looks unopened) full bottle of Pyrodex. Marked "P", "The FFFG Equivalent", whatever that means. Does powder have a shelf-life?
2) It came with some bullets. About half look new, cast. The others have a dull exterior, probably older. Does lead have a shelf-life?
3) Came with CCI size #10. I guess I can start with those and see how they work.
4) It did come with two types of wads. One says it is wool and has lube on it. The others, I am not so sure, but there is a little can of "patch grease", so maybe I can use that to add lube to them. It is made of sheep tallow and smells yummy. I guess we can eat it if the food runs out...
5) It has two tools and I think one must be the nipple wrench. The other is long, brass, and has a little pincer end on it. A spring-loaded latch on the other end.
6) I think I found the powder measure. It was already set on the second notch indicator and I am still trying to read the inscription. It left the other end with an opening about the size of a .380 case. I am looking for any instructions for this pistol that would say if that is the recommended setting. Let me say here that I don't intend to shoot this unti I am reasonably sure of what I am doing.

ETA: the inscriptions are "05" and "10" before that second mark. I would estimate it's set on about "12", as it's a tad past the second mark.

Remaining questions: I have heard of "chain fires", so I am wondering if, getting started, I should load and fire ONE cylinder only?
It's got a "half moon" cutout on the right side of the receiver. Is that for installing the caps?
It has the built-in "ramrod" (not sure if that's correct). I think it's for seating the bullet, but I don't know how much force you're supposed to apply? It's also got what looks like a handheld "ramrod". Does that have some other use? Clearing a squib? Attaching a cleaning brush? Just for when I might need it?

Thanks again for the help. This is completely new to me.

 

[lastnline75]

Waiting on a few more parts in the mail and she will be done.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[GoPappy]

You're going to need some stuff to shoot it.
1.) Powder - You can use blackpowder substitute like Pyrodex, 777, etc. or real blackpowder.
The real stuff is getting difficult to find locally. I prefer real BP over the subs.
The only disadvantage, IMO, is clean up is a little more scrubby when using the subs.
2.) bullets - use pure lead roundballs. These are easy to find. They're a little pricey to buy.
Your gun will need .454 diameter balls.
3.) percussion caps - these come in several sizes. The most common sizes are #10 and #11. You'll have to figure out which one fits best on your revolvers nipples. You want a good snug fit. Buy a can of each size and see what works best. Cap fit is very important as it prevents chain fires(several chambers going off at once). I prefer the Remington brand caps because they're made from thicker metal and don't obliterate into tiny pieces on discharge. These tiny pieces can and do get down into the lockwork binding up and dead lining the gun. This requires a complete tear down to clean them out. The CCI brand caps are the ones to avoid.
4.) Lubricated wads - these are placed between the powder and ball when loading. All they do is keep the powder fouling soft and the gun running. If you shoot the gun dry, without lube, it will bind up after a few shots and require tear down to wipe off the arbor so the cylinder can turn. BP fouling is like gummy dirt. It builds up fast. Even with wads you'll have to wipe off the arbor after three or four cylinders fired. Another way to do this is to smear grease/lube over the mouth of each chamber after loading the balls. This works but damn it is messy as hell. Lube gets splattered everywhere. On you, in your hair, on your glasses, all over the table and any gear laying there.
5.) Nipple wrench - these are easy to find. Just get a couple of them. Before you even go shooting the first time, remove the nipples on your cylinder, lube the threads with copper anti-seize or shotgun choke lube, and re-install the nipples. Lots of old guns are kaput because the nipples are rusted in place. Use penetrating oil to work the nipples loose if they're stuck. Don't crank down on them either just a firm snug twist is as tight as they need to be.
6.) Powder measure - these are easy to find. Get an adjustable brass one. They're not expensive. They come in different sizes so get on for a revolver. A handy tip. Lets say your revolver likes a load of 37 grains of powder. Get a couple of rifle cases like a .223 or .243. Pour 37grains of powder into the rifle case. Mark the level on the case and cut it off with a hacksaw. Now you have a quick and easy powder loading tool.
Remember you will need to clean after each shooting session ASAP. BP residue rusts quick.
You need to clean with hot water and soap. Then dry completely and then oil with your favorite gun oil. Just remember to clean all the oil out before shooting the nest time.

I figured there was a reason I never got into BP guns. Now I know why.

 

[Moonpie]

Wow! Thanks @Moonpie for all the helpful info.
1) Yes, it came with a (looks unopened) full bottle of Pyrodex. Marked "P", "The FFFG Equivalent", whatever that means. Does powder have a shelf-life?
Blackpowder is rated by its granulation size.
Fg being the coarsest with FFFFg being the finest.
Typicaliy 3fg/FFFg is used in guns >.50cal. So your stuff is good to go.
If your powder was stored properly(not left open to air) it will last decades.
The subs do tend to clump up and have to be shaken to break the powder up.
2) It came with some bullets. About half look new, cast. The others have a dull exterior, probably older. Does lead have a shelf-life?
No. Unless they balls are covered with white corrosion dust they're usable as is.
3) Came with CCI size #10. I guess I can start with those and see how they work.
Stick a few of them on the nipples and pop them off. See how they fit. The CCI's are usable but may give you a few problems when shooting with the cap bits jamming in the cylinder. When you fire off the bare caps you'll get an idea of what I'm talking about. NOTE: do the cap firing outside. Its about as loud as a .22 when they go off. Wear eye and ear protection. Flying caps bits are a thing. Sucks to get one in the eye.
4) It did come with two types of wads. One says it is wool and has lube on it. The others, I am not so sure, but there is a little can of "patch grease", so maybe I can use that to add lube to them. It is made of sheep tallow and smells yummy. I guess we can eat it if the food runs out...
Good to go.
5) It has two tools and I think one must be the nipple wrench. The other is long, brass, and has a little pincer end on it. A spring-loaded latch on the other end.
Pincer thing sounds like a "Capper" or "Capping tool". Generally more of a pain in the ass than a useful tool.
Nipple wrench can be L shaped or T shaped. The notched end fits the flats on the sides of the nipple cones.
6) I think I found the powder measure. It was already set on the second notch indicator and I am still trying to read the inscription. It left the other end with an opening about the size of a .380 case. I am looking for any instructions for this pistol that would say if that is the recommended setting. Let me say here that I don't intend to shoot this unti I am reasonably sure of what I am doing.
Typically a .44cal C&B revolver of the type you have uses a 20-30grain charge of powder.
If your powder measure is made of brass, use some steel wool to sand of the plunger on the powder measure so you can read the graduations.
Common with use for the brass to tarnish/discolor where its difficult to see them.

ETA: the inscriptions are "05" and "10" before that second mark. I would estimate it's set on about "12", as it's a tad past the second mark.

Remaining questions: I have heard of "chain fires", so I am wondering if, getting started, I should load and fire ONE cylinder only?
This is why snug fitting caps are so important.
Chain fires are scary and dangerous. They're easily prevented with careful and proper loading.
It's got a "half moon" cutout on the right side of the receiver. Is that for installing the caps?
Yes. The cut out gives you room to install the caps with the cylinder still on the gun.
It has the built-in "ramrod" (not sure if that's correct). I think it's for seating the bullet, but I don't know how much force you're supposed to apply? It's also got what looks like a handheld "ramrod". Does that have some other use? Clearing a squib? Attaching a cleaning brush? Just for when I might need it?
The rammer will need a bit of oomph to push the ball down into chamber. Ideally you want to see a ring of lead shaved from the ball as its forced in. this insures a tight secure fit. Fit needs to be firm so the balls don't back out during recoil.
The rod is probably just a spare cleaning rod.

Thanks again for the help. This is completely new to me.

Go here. http://www.octobercountry.com/
Snoop around a bit. You can get a good idea of what you already have and what you might want.
As an old blackpowder guy I'll tell you this. Go down to Academy and buy a medium to large fishing tackle box. You'll need it to carry and store all the crap you WILL acquire. LMAO.

 

[Moonpie]

I figured there was a reason I never got into BP guns. Now I know why.

I bet you're fun at parties.

 

[kbaxter60]

Thanks for sharing that video. He does a good job, too. I hadn't considered paper cartridges, but it looks like a timesaver.
I realized that my "parts and tools kit" is a Cabela's Black Powder Pistol Starter Set. It seems to have most everything I need to get started (so to speak). I also found a digital version of the owner's manual. I am really getting excited to try this out.

 

[GoPappy]

I bet you're fun at parties.

Actually, I am.

I also like driving sports cars but don’t enjoy working on them. I equate BP guys to the guys who love working on their muscle cars.

There’s nothing wrong with that and, in fact, I wish I had the knowledge and skill to do it. But it’s just not for me.

 

[Armybrat]

Ordered a 200 round case of Speer 9mm Gold Dot +p 124 grain SD hollow points from SGAmmo. Gotta feed the two new Ruger SR9 pistols something besides 115 gr. fmj.

 

[SQLGeek]

@kbaxter60 you got some great advice from @Moonpie and @jrbfishn. I haven't shot blackpowder nearly as much as either of them but I did want to add a couple of things in terms of cleaning. A lot of blackpowder shooters like to make up something called moose milk which is a mixture of something like 20-30% Ballistol and the remainder water. This is used for intermediate cleaning while shooting and spraying down after shooting is over before you pack up.

As Moon said, do not wait to clean up.

Have fun making big smoke clouds!

 

[sixtysixFox]

Just picked up my new CZ Scorpion today. Now to save up some $$$ to turn it into a noice little PCC.

 

[GPtwins]

Ordered a 200 round case of Speer 9mm Gold Dot +p 124 grain SD hollow points from SGAmmo. Gotta feed the two new Ruger SR9 pistols something besides 115 gr. fmj.

View attachment 211002 View attachment 211003

Love my SR9. Carry it every day in a Kydex holster.


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[V-Tach]

One of the things I will miss when I retire.....

You never know what will walk through the door......A fellow called and asked if I would take a bucket of old shotgun ammo for free....said sure.....

Look at what I found in the bottom.....................

Cal. .30 AP M2 in En bloc clips.........Black tip....Score!!!!

 

[SQLGeek]

Damn!

 

[Moonpie]

One of the things I will miss when I retire.....

You never know what will walk through the door......A fellow called and asked if I would take a bucket of old shotgun ammo for free....said sure.....

Look at what I found in the bottom.....................

Cal. .30 AP M2 in En bloc clips.........Black tip....Score!!!!

View attachment 211899
View attachment 211900

 

[easy rider]

One of the things I will miss when I retire.....

You never know what will walk through the door......A fellow called and asked if I would take a bucket of old shotgun ammo for free....said sure.....

Look at what I found in the bottom.....................

Cal. .30 AP M2 in En bloc clips.........Black tip....Score!!!!

View attachment 211899
View attachment 211900

You mean things like that have you thinking about retirement?

 

[Kar98]

ZEV Pro trigger for my Glock 43 so I don't get stabbed every time I shoot it. Took less time and effort to install than the Hogue grips I put on my wife's Glocks.

 

[Tamlibtoim]

Received & installed a new Simmons 3x9x32 scope on my early 90’s Marlin 60ss. It originally came equipped with a Deerfield 4x scope which the reticle broke a few years back. I replaced it with a black FX-I Leupold that was really nice but didn’t fit the look of the rifle. I think Deerfield was made by Simmons back then (not sure) but it looks really good to me! Now gotta go get it sighted in! I know its a big step down in quality but its meant to be a fun low cost shooter.