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Can you put drywall over OSB ?

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  • popsgarland

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    Don't hire whoever did this:
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    View attachment 286831

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    This was in an AirBNB we used a couple years ago in the DFW area. Oh and the TV's were "mounted" to the wall using drywall screws and string, hung like a picture. It was great. Filthy dirty too.
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    popsgarland

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    Be aware that doing the tape, bed and texture isn't as easy as most people think.

    Instead of sanding the joint compound, mud as we call it in the business, use a wet/damp sponge. it will eliminate the sanded joint compound from getting all over the place.
     

    SQLGeek

    Muh state lines
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    Don't hire this guy either, this one is in my house. That's lamp cord, three different kinds of wire nuts, and little Chinese LED drivers tucked up into the space above the upper cabinets. Licensed electrician, so said the GC.

    Yes, I redid it.

    View attachment 286834

    House I owned in CA had wiring exposed like this under the counter....but it was 220 for the oven.

    Our neighbors said that the people we bought the house from were trying to make it a flip and had a contractor who came to work on the house on his bicycle.

    We ended up getting so many concessions based on our inspection report that I think we ate up all their profits. Three weeks after we moved in, we had to replace the sewer lateral that was completely failing and backing up sewage into the downstairs shower. That conveniently wasn't on the disclosures.
     

    G O B

    School of Hard Knocks and Sharp blows
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    I bought a house from "Bob". I knew the house was sound, but EVERYTHING that was ever done to it was "Bobbed". I got a great deal because everyone else ran away!
    how do you Bob a house?
    Glue used commercial carpet tile on the OAK floors and stairs for carpet underlayment.
    Tap off the stove to power an electric dryer. Put the electric dryer outlet on the leg of the oil tank.
    Add central air. Tap the feed from the dryer outlet on the oil tank. (still the dryer outlet!)
    Re-do the kitchen and use rough fake brick (porous and cannot be cleaned) make sure that there are NO cabinets deep enough to put plates or pots and pans in.
    There was a lot more, but it did well by me. The amount of money I put into it was still way less than what it was worth. In the time I lived there, I refid 3 times taking more than I originally payed. When we sold it we still made a good profit!
     

    Reb58

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    Tear it down and do it right. 1/2" is good. Buy, or rent, a sheetrock lift. Float and tape it, use wet sponge to "sand" the seams. Texture it.

    What I did rather than float and tape the edges at the walls was put up a type of crown moulding I found at Lowes. It was not typical crown molding but had 90 degree angle on back that fit well in the seam and looked great. It was only 2.5".

    Saved many many hours of floating, taping, sanding sheetrock edges and several more hours cutting in with paint brush at ceiling/wall joint.

    Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
     

    Coyote9

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    If I would be doing this for myself, I would put furring strips down and add the drywall over those, then do the joint work and texture. The old texture on the walls you probably could do a skim coat, lightly sand and then apply your pattern of choice.

    Depending on your HVAC and humidity situations the furring strips would be a good solution. The DIY easy path is T&G material (also breathes unless sealed with oil/poly)
     

    2ManyGuns

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    I'd go 1/2 ceiling rated drywall right on top of the osb. No need for 5/8's unless there's a 2nd story above for fire rating. Make sure you do 7 screws on each line. 2 on each edge and 5 in the field.

    Not sure why furring would be added unless it's super wavy.
    He said the joints had cracked, to me that implies some type of movement, 1x4 furring could be used to provide a substrate running across the current joints and add some stability. Think of it like the layers in plywood achieving strength because the "grain" is crossed when it is glued and pressure is applied, or using different woods in a door blank so that the wood moves in different directions lending "stability". Just my $.02.
     

    HKaltwasser

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    He said the joints had cracked, to me that implies some type of movement, 1x4 furring could be used to provide a substrate running across the current joints and add some stability. Think of it like the layers in plywood achieving strength because the "grain" is crossed when it is glued and pressure is applied, or using different woods in a door blank so that the wood moves in different directions lending "stability". Just my $.02.
    I took it as in they just mudded over the joints and didn't tape them, not even sure tape would stick to OSB, it's too rough for a smooth layer of mud for the tape to stick to. If OSB isn't making the joists rigid, I really don't think furring will, unless using 2x4 furring. Osb is used in shear walls and for structural integrity when drying the house in as sheathing. If the OSB was staggered on the ceiling, it really shouldn't move unless the joists aren't attached good. If there is one long seam where they didn't stagger the osb, you can easy do a runner or two in the attic to "strap" all of the joists together. This is the easier way anyhow.
     

    Dawico

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    He said the joints had cracked, to me that implies some type of movement, 1x4 furring could be used to provide a substrate running across the current joints and add some stability. Think of it like the layers in plywood achieving strength because the "grain" is crossed when it is glued and pressure is applied, or using different woods in a door blank so that the wood moves in different directions lending "stability". Just my $.02.
    Drywall mud doesn't stick to plywood or osb well. Plus wood and the mud expand at different rates.

    Yes, there is normal movement but at different rates causing the cracks.

    Even with tape it's going to crack.

    Offsetting the seams is the best bet but furring strips aren't going to make any difference.

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    2ManyGuns

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    if you are "cheap" mud will work on wall paneling if you do not feel like tearing it out, just an FYI, not related to the topic at hand.
     
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