Question about building an AR!!!

[Nates0819]

Hey all, so let me give you the low down. I'm building 2 AR's. One for myself and one for my wife. For mine I am getting a complete battlers upper to drop on my complete lower. Easy I know.
For my wife's I took in a trade a brand new Daniel defense modular float rail. I believe it has everything it should come with. The nuts and screws needed to attach. I know I will need a gas system so I'm going to use direct impingement as I don't want to spend a fortune.
So I guess my question is what else will I need to make a barreled upper? I did some searching and couldn't find how to buy a gas system. Also not sure what size it has to be. I did research on the rail and it says to use a 16" barrel. That right? So I'm guessing I need an upper receiver, gas system, and barrel?
Here's a pic of what I have. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

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[Nates0819]

First paragraph should say barreled upper*

The rail is the Daniel defense modular float rail 12.0 btw



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[Leper]

Gas tube, gas block, barrel, upper receiver, charging handle, bolt carrier group, optic.

The gas tube length will be determined by the barrel you pick. I prefer rifle length gas, but that is hard to find in a barrel under 20"

 

[Nates0819]

How do I know how long of a gas tube I need?


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[Leper]

I was editing my post when you asked the question.

 

[grumper]

Barrel description when you buy the thing should say rifle, carbine, midlength, wutever.

 

[Leper]

And get a full auto bcg.

 

[TAZ]

You'll need a minimum 16" barrel to stay legal without having to pin or silver solder your muzzle device. When you order your barrel pay attention to what the description states about the gas system (rifle, intermediate, mid or carbine) buy the matching gas tube. Also pay attention to the gas block diameter required. Most are .750" but if you buy a light weight barrel they can come with .625. Also pay attention to what kind of upper receiver you buy. If it has M4 feed ramps, buy a barrel with a matching extension. Also find a book on Amazon on building it out and pick up one of the service branch armorers manuals. There are a lot of books to use. I got one by Walt Kulek and it had good pics and tips. It was pretty easy if you're somewhat used to working with your hands. Also get a crush washer for your flash hider in the pic.


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[Nates0819]

Thank you, building an AR is more stressful then buying a house!


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[Leper]

Thank you, building an AR is more stressful then buying a house!


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Not even close.

Hardest part is deciding what you want. That is pure personal preference. I like an 18" barrel with rifle length gas. An adjustable gas block will allow you to tune for a specific ammo. Couple that with the m16 bcg, and you really have a rifle that shoots easy and smooth. Get a muzzle brake that does what you want it to do.

 

[Leper]

For what you have now, I would by a complete upper from palmetto or somebody with a cheap hand guard, and swap yours to it. If you can wait 7 months, DSA has some real inexpensive stuff, that is still good quality.

 

[breakingcontact]

Not even close.

Hardest part is deciding what you want. That is pure personal preference. I like an 18" barrel with rifle length gas. An adjustable gas block will allow you to tune for a specific ammo. Couple that with the m16 bcg, and you really have a rifle that shoots easy and smooth. Get a muzzle brake that does what you want it to do.

(Insert dislike of AR here)

But...I like those 18" barrels!

 

[Nates0819]

For what you have now, I would by a complete upper from palmetto or somebody with a cheap hand guard, and swap yours to it. If you can wait 7 months, DSA has some real inexpensive stuff, that is still good quality.

So if I bought the "PSA 16" M4 premium complete upper, for $299 I could simply take off the hand guards that are on it and put on my rail I have? The front sight post will have to be moved forward I imagine..


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[TAZ]

So if I bought the "PSA 16" M4 premium complete upper, for $299 I could simply take off the hand guards that are on it and put on my rail I have? The front sight post will have to be moved forward I imagine..


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You'd have to pull the barrel. Remove the muzzle device, remove front sight post, remove handguard cap, remove barrel nut and delta ring assembly. Replace barrel with DD nut that comes with MFS handguard, buy new low profile has block and install where the FSP was. (You could also grind the FSP down to size). Replace muzzle device.

 

[GlockOwner]

As TAZ just referred to, make sure it is a "low profile" gas block. If you get one too big, the handguard wont fit.

 

[Leper]

So if I bought the "PSA 16" M4 premium complete upper, for $299 I could simply take off the hand guards that are on it and put on my rail I have? The front sight post will have to be moved forward I imagine..


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Get a low profile gas block or grind the sight down. You can't move it because it is also your gas block.

 

[XinTX]

Thank you, building an AR is more stressful then buying a house!

Not even in the same league. Try building an AK. An AR is an 'assembly' more than anything. If you want stressful, order a 1911 frame, slide, barrel, etc. That build will test your patience.

 

[Nates0819]

I'm debating selling my modular float rail. Seems like a hassle to do all the required steps to put it on that upper i plan on getting. It's for my wife, she doesn't need anything to fancy.


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[Texas42]

You can but a DD upper with a lo profile gas bock.

Daniel Defense 16 URG Mid-Length, Low Pro GB at G and R Tactical

you don't need any of this. I would try and get a lighter profile 16" rifle just to keep the weight down.

 

[smschulz]

Maybe you should just buy a completed upper.
You normally don't save much if anything building.
You will however be able to get the custom configuration you desire.
But if you are clueless in what parts go into a build, the is no point to a custom build.