Retro Carbine build: CAR-15 XM177E2

[RedArmy]

I've slowly started my attempt at building a clone of the CAR-15 XM177E2. This will be an early Vietnam version of the rifle carried by SOG and other elite groups. I've done a lot of research and I think I've got good information to get this carbine fairly accurate. I'm being held up by two hard to find parts, but I've got one of them on the way and I have a guy trying to get me the other so I should be able to get her done soon enough. One of the parts was a lock ring which I'm hoping they've sent me the correct one and the other is an early 6 hole handguard with an unshielded gas tube.

XM177E2

Here's a mock up of some of the parts I have for this carbine, a few originals with a lot of reproduction pieces. You could build an Ok carbine like this, but I'm going a little further to get it as close as I can to the original. I've stripped all components down for rework.

For a receiver I'm using Brownell's excellent early M16A1 receiver made by Nodac Spud. This is the correct unreinforced receiver for early M16 type rifles. It's currently at the gun shop for laser engraving. I hope they haven't screwed it up, the last one they did for me didn't take this long, lol.

I'm having the early colt pony and script along with the US Gov property marks and auto fire select engraved on the Brownell's receiver. Unfortunately Brownell's puts their model roll mark on it so no room for the XM177E2 designation, I can live without it though.

 

[RedArmy]

First correction, the XM177E2 didn't have a bayonet lug, it has to go.

I carefully removed it with a cut off wheel. I also decided to refinish the front half of the barrel from the front of the handguard forward with Cerakote.

I added a Meprolight tritium front sight, a small carbine like this is still relevant today and I plan on carrying it with me on occasion.

 

[Prisondoc210]

Very cool

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[RedArmy]

Original XM177 E2 receiver shown here, note that it doesn't carry the colt stamp or any forge designations. This works out well for me as I won't have to reproduce any markings here.

The upper is also made by Nodac Spud and carries their forge logo. I'll just remove it.

Erased.

Upper after Cerakote, I blasted all parts with aluminum oxide before application. Color is graphite black, it's as close as I've come to getting that black grey of the early M16 family.

 

[RedArmy]

Forgot to add that I lapped the receiver just for the heck of it. It probably won't add much to the accuracy, I've done it on all of my builds can't really say if it helped or not.

I also corrected the reproduction forward assist as it was too thick. I have an original upper on my M16A1 clone so it makes it handy to compare parts with.

 

[RedArmy]

Here is the reproduction aluminum stock, it looks like crap, lol. It's parkerized to hide all the mold marks and casting porosities. It'll have to be fixed.

It took lots and lots of sanding by hand to get the mold and cast marks out of it. Why can't I stick to simple bolt together projects, lol?

 

[RedArmy]

Here's an original CAR-15 stock, these had a shiny plastic finish on them about semi gloss black when new.

And after a lot of work here's my reproduction. I'm using the Brownell's reproduction two position buffer tube in the early phosphate like finish.

 

[Prisondoc210]

Do you have to cure that cerakote in an oven?

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[RedArmy]

I've got most of the small parts refinished and that's where I'm currently at. Waiting to find out if I'll get my 6 hole hand guard and hopefully the correct lock nut for the buffer tube comes in. As soon as my receiver comes back from engraving I'll have more to do. Cerakote recommends about six days for cure before handling parts so I'll hold off on the upper assembly. As soon as I get more done I'll update the thread.

If your were wondering what that donut is for on the barrel.

 

[Axxe55]

Pretty cool project. Subbed!

Looks good so far.

 

[RedArmy]

Do you have to cure that cerakote in an oven?

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C-102 Graphite Black is air cure. You can easily apply it and just about any coating at home, I can't tell the difference between air cure and oven cure in regards to abrasion or chem resistance, both are tough as nails if applied correctly. I do both air cure and oven cure at home, I'm limited to the size of parts for oven cure as I use a toaster for curing. I don't think it's a good idea to cure parts in an oven used for food preparation, the stuff is toxic. Make sure you wear a respirator when spraying coatings and aluminum oxide blasting. A real respirator not a face mask.

My home set up:

Passche air eraser for aluminum oxide blasting. NOTE: I don't recommend this one, there is an improved version out there, this one has feed problems, I don't like to buy stuff twice so I just put up with it. $65.00

Aluminum oxide fine, Amazon $24.00 for 5lbs. Caution, this stuff is highly destructive, don't use it around machinery like cars fans etc. You better have that respirator on too. I cover my compressor when I use this stuff and I always blast outside in small home made blast cabinet. I've also blasted in an empty cardboard box, just cover the top with clear plastic and cut two holes in the side to put your hands in.

Cheap Amazon HVLP gun with 0.3mm tip, I think Cerakote recommends a 0.8mm tip but mine works just fine. $49.99. Don't let the controls scare you, practice on a piece of cardboard you'll figure it out, anyone can do this.

Pancake compressor from Hobo Freight, $39.99.

For oven cure I use this extremely high tech gun coating curing device right here.

Here is my process:

Clean parts with brake cleaner first to remove all grease.

Prepare parts by blasting with aluminum oxide, you don't have to remove the entire finish, it just needs to be roughed up. Don't get too close with the blaster as you can damage aluminum and some metal finishes, also don't blast parts like slide rails etc, no moving or working parts, mask those areas.

Now blow all sand blasting media off the parts with compressed air. I also use a paint brush to brush it out of nooks and crannies.

Now put on rubber gloves, from here out you can't touch the parts with bare skin. Spray all parts with brake cleaner, then dry with a clean cotton towel. Use a clean unused paint brush to brush any areas that might have lint or dust, don't use the same brush you used with the aluminum oxide.

Now hang or mount the parts to something for spraying. I spray about two good coats of Cerakote and then wait about three minutes for it to tack up and then spray three more coats and I'm done. Sounds like a lot, but trust me it's really easy. The process does make a mess though.

Like I said air or oven cure is about the same as far as toughness. Here is my M16A1 clone also in Cerakote C-102, it's been about two years since built and no signs of wear so far. It doesn't care about Hoppe's No. 9 etc.

 

[SURVIVOR619]

Thanks for sharing your project and progress - looking good!!

 

[Axxe55]

Wives tend to get a little upset if you cook parts in the oven.

Don't ask me how I know this from first-hand experience!

 

[mp_tx]

Where are you getting the laser engraving done? I will be interested seeing it compared to the roll marks.


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[Coyote9]

First correction, the XM177E2 didn't have a bayonet lug, it has to go.

I carefully removed it with a cut off wheel. I also decided to refinish the front half of the barrel from the front of the handguard forward with Cerakote.

I added a Meprolight tritium front sight, a small carbine like this is still relevant today and I plan on carrying it with me on occasion.

I've got an early bakelite grip for trade

 

[RedArmy]

Where are you getting the laser engraving done? I will be interested seeing it compared to the roll marks.


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Elliot White Gun Shop, they did the Property of US Gov markings on my M16A1 shown in the Cerakote instructions just above this reply. A little shallow on that one, he said he's going to engrave deeper on this one.

 

[RedArmy]

I've got an early bakelite grip for trade

Thanks for the offer, but I already have one in almost mint condition. I am needing an original handguard, I suspect that will be the hard one to get. I have a surplus guy looking for me.

 

[Orbie]

Here’s my wife shooting something similar to what you’re building. Sendra lower with what I believe to be a Colt upper.

 

[MeatWagonExpress]

Subbing to this thread. There is just something awesome about "retro" builds.

 

[A1Oni]

ah a fellow homeboy with fine taste I see, gonna throw a single point optic on it or an oxford if ya can find one?

my very 90's Bushmaster Rebuild.