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  • TheDan

    deplorable malcontent scofflaw
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    I saw the Hornady Lock-N-Load Ammo Plant at Cabelas over the weekend. Now that's the reloading setup I want! I would just need to set up a motor and crank or something similar that could work the handle automatically while I go do something else
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    Leper

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    Dillon 550. Simple to set up, simple to change. I loaded on a 550 for years before I started looking at the 650 and 1050. I traded for my 550 and got the better end of the deal. I always see people say to start with a single stage, and I do not agree with that. I think the 650 and especially the 1050 are much more complex to setup and keep running than the 550. And at two grand, you better be damn sure you will be reloading for a while if you are looking at a 1050.
    The only thing I have come to dislike about the 550 is that you manually index the shell holder. It takes me 17 minutes to run 100 9mm and I think I could knock five minutes off of that if it auto indexed. That is why I am looking for a used 650. Problem is, I never see one used because people keep them even if they get a 1050
     

    deemus

    my mama says I'm special
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    I have a Lee 4-hole turret press. I like the 4-hole because you can get a turret plate for each caliber you load. THat way when you get your dies set, they stay put. No off and on stuff that way. You just pull the entire turret plate with the dies on it out of the press, and place the next caliber to load on it. Its about as easy as it gets IMO.

    The 4 hole holds: resizing die, powder charging die, bullet seating die, crimping die. I usually do primers by hand while watching TV in the casa. So that step isn't on the press, although it could be. I just love the Lee Auto-Prime. And I prefer the sensitivity to doing it by hand. If there is a problem, you know it quick.


    And ditto on the bench. I have a 2" thick plywood that I use. Better too heavy than too light.
     

    Deavis

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    Now that's the reloading setup I want! I would just need to set up a motor and crank or something similar that could work the handle automatically while I go do something else

    Then buy a 650 or a 1050 and get the P/W drive and you are done! Still won't be able to walk away, but it is nice.
     

    ROGER4314

    Been Called "Flash" Since I Was A Kid!
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    I wouldn't have an interest in an automatic loader. The fun for me is to use the tricks I've accumulated in loading since 1967 in crafting better cartridges than the factory makes. I had a Ransom Rest to test pistol ammo and chronographed my loads, too when I was really set up in Tulsa. The shop was heated and air conditioned, insulated and there was lots of room. In my present home, I'm converting an unused bedroom into my loading area.

    CW, you might consider the heat in your garage setup. The heat & humidity will definitely make the powder charges vary.

    In Oklahoma, it got very dry and static electricity was always a problem. Static cling would mess up the powder measures. Take the measure apart and rub the parts with clothes dryer sheets like Bounce and it will keep static cling at bay. Removing all traces of oil could make them rust so keep monitoring your gear.

    A lot of this is personal preference and you'll find what's best for you. The best advice I've heard here is make the workbench thick and stout. Keep your powder measures or powder containers off of the bench as you reload. The measures provide powder volume which then converts to powder weight. If you vibrate the powder as you process the brass, it packs down, becomes dense and you'll get charge variations.

    Flash
     

    TheDan

    deplorable malcontent scofflaw
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    Then buy a 650 or a 1050 and get the P/W drive and you are done! Still won't be able to walk away, but it is nice.
    I had to look that up. Neat... Didn't know anyone actually made something like that.

    I've got a single stage for making special rifle loads here and there, but I just can't see the benefit to reloading handgun and high volume rifle calibers like 5.56 on any of the personal reload presses available right now. Now, my own personal ammo factory where I can just dump components into hoppers and let her rip? Hell yeah I want that.
     

    DaRedneck

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    CW - This is more about the bench than reloading but if you are still looking for a work bench you might check out one they have for sale at Harbor Frieght. I picked one up about a month ago for $160. It says it is rated for 250 pounds but I know for a fact I've had a helluva lot more than that on it. It was a little short for me so I built some 4x4 feet for it and it is perfect for what I do. I am pretty sure I've seen the exact same bench posted on these forums from another member's setup. I think it may have been hkusp1. Maybe if he reads this he can give you his opinion of the bench. Anyway, here is a pic of mine and a link to their site.

    BMCBench.jpg


    60" Hardwood Oak Workbench w/ 4 Drawers
     

    Clockwork

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    Man, I knew I could count on you guys for some great info!

    So is that 550 a single stage press or progressive? This is all new to me so learning the process single stage makes a lot of sense to a guy that's a strong tactile learner.

    @DaRedneck - That's a sweet bench! What kinds of rails are on the drawers for that bench? Is that metal on metal or is it ball-bearing/roller assisted?

    @ROGER - Been house hunting! How else could I score a sweet ass garage to set up a reloading station? :)

    I'm pretty sure the garage is actually part of the central A/C of the home. I'll have to verify but that's a good point about the environment for the reloading.

    Really appreciate all the input from all of you!
     

    Deavis

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    Now, my own personal ammo factory where I can just dump components into hoppers and let her rip? Hell yeah I want that.

    You mean like one of these babies


    ALW.jpg


    They are pretty awesome, but changing calibers is a real pain.

    You can build you own bench farily cheap using 2x4s and 3/4" plywood. Use 3" screws and lags and you've got a real sturdy bench. No matter waht, bolt it to the wall to prevent movement unless you have weight on it.

    The 550 is a progressive like the RCBS Pro2000 without auto-advance. You can get real quick with advancing and get into a nice rythym on that type of press. That being said, having a casefeeder on a LnL or 650 means your attention is purely focused on the operation and the bullet seating. I feel that it actually helps you focus on what you are doing by removing your interaction with the press. It is even easier with you run a big press like the Ammoload since your entire focus is on observing, sampling, and feeding components.

    Don't be shocked by the parts count on progressives. Some would argue that there is just more to go wrong, when in fact 95% of the parts you never mess with. On a 650XL you replace the case feed spring, the shellplate return spring, and almost nothing else. Calibers changes are simnple, pull pins, remove toolhead, insert new toolhead, remove shellplate bolt, swap shellplate, rebolt, and swap ancillary casefeed parts (usually 4).
     

    Texastransplant

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    Definately go basic at first. Why? Because it will help you learn the steps. A single stage would be best, you can always use that later. That way you will have less of a chance at making mistakes or be overwhelmed. For under $200 you can have all you need and things you will need later. Then when you happy, go to a progressive. Starting out it can be overwheelming if someone is not looking over your shoulder.
     

    scap99

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    Definately go basic at first. Why? Because it will help you learn the steps. A single stage would be best, you can always use that later. That way you will have less of a chance at making mistakes or be overwhelmed. For under $200 you can have all you need and things you will need later. Then when you happy, go to a progressive. Starting out it can be overwheelming if someone is not looking over your shoulder.

    I completely disagree. I started with an XL650 and used it for 10yrs before I got a single stage to load precision rifle.
    I've loaded thousands of rounds of forty and 9mm, and have never had an issue.


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    cleric

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    You can go basic buy getting a progressive and starting with a easy round like 45acp. Then move to more complex ideas.

    I would not recommend the ammo plant to anyone for a first press. But a hornady lnl ap is how I started. After I did a few thousand rounds I got a case feeder.
     

    OldCannon

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    Pflugerville
    I saw the Hornady Lock-N-Load Ammo Plant at Cabelas over the weekend. Now that's the reloading setup I want! I would just need to set up a motor and crank or something similar that could work the handle automatically while I go do something else

    That will probably yield suboptimal results :)

    The Ammo Plant setup is nice. I have a similar setup in my office so customers can see what it looks like (I resell Hornady, RCBS, and Redding), but I generally don't advise getting the bullet feeder. If you want the bullet feeder, but want to save yourself about $300, get the bullet feeder die. It's tall enough to hold about 5-9 bullets, depending on the caliber, and with a smart insertion of a clear PVC tube, you can stack several more. The benefit is that you don't have a second motor grinding out noise and the bullet feeding process doesn't require sticking your hand in the "work area" with precisely the right timing, so it's nicely undistracting. I would say that without a case feeder, you're losing one of the biggest benefits of an Auto Progressive press.

    Personally, I resize and prime BEFORE I run them through the LnL (yes, primed cases chugging away up in the case feeder rotor. Yes, it's ok to do that, although Hornady will never agree ), although when I use the demo LnL, it's all set up in the "official" way, with the exception of the RCBS powder lock-out die.

    So, my suggestion, if you're going to use a LnL: LnL AP, Case Feeder, and Caliber Kit (Shell Plate, Dies, Bushings, and Bullet Feeder die). Skip the bullet feeder, unless you really, REALLY don't like dropping bullets into the bullet feeder die.
     

    skinman

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    I started reloading .357 and 30-06 MANY YEARS ago using a Rockchucker and Lee dies. Fast forward to a few years ago, I got back into shooting and .45 acp and 30-06 ammo soon got damn hard to find so reloading was the only way I could insure that I had an ample supply of ammo. I had long ago sold the Rockchucker and .357 dies but still had the old Lee 30-06 dies. I did not have $1000 to spend and after much internet research, videos, and reading the books, I decided to start out with the Lee Classic Turret 4-hole and the 4 die .45 acp die set. There was a learning curve and one squib before I got all the right accessories such as the Pro Disk Powder Measure and riser, adjustable charge bar, Safety Primer Feed, electronic scales, and calipers, and set up my routine and checks to minimize the chance for errors and maximize efficiency. I have since set up for 9mm and .223/5.56 and I have cranked thousands of rounds out of this setup that I have less than $500 invested in. I may not be able to crank out 250 rounds/hour but that is not my goal. 500 rounds each of pistol and rifle rounds per month is all I need and the setup I have works damn well for that.

    Now, I was not exactly a true beginner when I bought the Lee Classic Turret, but it had been a long time and I was not well versed on the modern equipment and components. I am very pleased with my choice and I would recommend this setup for anyone just starting out. The press can be operated like a single-stage press which is how I reload 30-06. This press is somewhat small, like the Rockchucker, but it works well and didn't break the bank to get started. Maybe someday I will go with a more expensive progressive setup like the ones profiled here, but for starting out reloading pistol ammo for an auto, the Lee Classic Turret and 4 die pistol set is an excellent choice.
     

    OldCannon

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    Now, I was not exactly a true beginner when I bought the Lee Classic Turret, but it had been a long time and I was not well versed on the modern equipment and components. I am very pleased with my choice and I would recommend this setup for anyone just starting out. The press can be operated like a single-stage press which is how I reload 30-06. This press is somewhat small, like the Rockchucker, but it works well and didn't break the bank to get started. Maybe someday I will go with a more expensive progressive setup like the ones profiled here, but for starting out reloading pistol ammo for an auto, the Lee Classic Turret and 4 die pistol set is an excellent choice.

    I completely agree! In fact, I would say that for most folks, a Lee Classic Turret is the ONLY reloading setup you would ever need. You can easily pump out enough rounds for most needs, rifle or pistol. It is as beautiful in design as it is in operation. As with the Hornady though, I don't recommend priming with presses -- I use an RCBS hand primer and I get correct seating every time, then I just resize w/o decapper and chug along as normal.

    FYI, a GREAT place to buy a nice Lee turret setup is at Kempf's Gun Shop in Indiana. They sell a very nice "starter package" here:
    https://kempfgunshop.com//index.php...n=com_virtuemart&Itemid=41&vmcchk=1&Itemid=41

    P.S. - Get the Lee Classic Turret, not the Lee Turret. The Classic model has higher space between the base and the turret for pistol AND rifle reloading. The standard Lee Turret doesn't. It's about $40 more expensive, but worth it. Also, if you're buying from Kempfs (above), be sure to select the Pro Auto Disk powder measure upgrade. It's really a "must have".
     

    Clockwork

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    Well, guys - I got myself a Dillon XL 650 with a 45ACP conversion for only $500. Brand new. Couldn't turn a deal like that down. :)

    Picked myself up 200 rounds of Federal 45ACP and as soon as I shoot those and pick up the 45 dies I should be in business! Can't wait to get started on this.
     
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