Question on AR handguard length

[Mexican_Hippie]

I've been looking at uppers and think I have figured out what I want. 16" barrel, mid-length gas / low profile block, pinned front sight at rifle length, free float rifle length handguards. I'm planning on keeping it with just iron sights, at least for a while; I like shooting iron sights.

PSA makes what they're calling a mock dissipator that looks very similar to what I want Palmetto State Armory 16'' 4150 Chrome-Lined, Premium Mid-length Mock Dissipator Upper

The only change I would make is to free float the handguards. All the ones I see with free float hanguards have either no sights up front or flip up sights on the rail, not on the barrel. I'd like to keep the front sight on the barrel and any slings, grips, etc. on the handguards.

My newbie AR question:
Could you replace the MOE handguards they have on it with a rifle length free float quadrail? Would it fit with length-wise the front sight on there? Are there certain brands that would work better to fit over the midlength gas block? I'm not scared to break out a dremel if it needs a little massage but don't want to make major alterations to a quadrail if I can avoid it.

 

[tussery]

12" free float hand guards will fit behind the front sight block.

 

[Texas42]

I don't know, but if you get it, would you please let us know how you like it? PSA has a lot of good looking stuff at a great price.

They have a complete rifle with an AIMPOINT PRO for $999. Thats a $400 optic.

 

[Mikewood]

You are building an odd duck for sure but any two piece free float quad rail would work.

 

[Mexican_Hippie]

I'm considering getting it as-is and maybe doing the free float later. I didn't want to get it if I didn't have the option to change the guards later. Yeah, it seems like they have great prices. The reviews I've seen seem like they're pretty good.

I'm buying parts as budget allows, so may be a couple months before I piece it all together. As soon as I do I will definitely post up a report.

Thanks for the response tussery, that's a big help. If all else fails I will break out a dremel and finish up with a little sanding and krylon. IMO, ARs and AKs (and Jeeps) look better a little "worn" anyway.

 

[TX0303]

What is the reason you don't want the front sight on the rail? I just built a 16" middy upper with a 13" Troy VTAC HG and put a Daniel's front sight on the rail. If installed at the end of the rail, this gives a rifle length sight radius.
I've heard Pametto is good about custom orders so they may sell you that upper without the MOE handguards.
One thing to ask them is, how is the handguard cap held in place on the FSB? Seems like it would have to be permanently attached since the gas tube does not go to the FSB.
Also, if you don't have the tools to remove a barrell, make sure the float tube you get can mount on the stock barrell nut. Some HGs use their own barrell nut.

 

[Angered_Kabar]

Lots of companies make rifle length free float tubes.

Samson looks relatively pain free. You'll have to pull the barrel and get rid of the delta spring assembly but it uses the original barrel nut.

Also wondering what you have against putting a front sight on the tube.

 

[Charlie]

My freefloat handguard made my AR a lot more accurate (I need all the help I can get!). I am now a firm believer in freefloat forearms!

 

[Mexican_Hippie]

My thoughts on the sight/rail are this...

1) When the barrel is subject to pressure from the handguard from slings, grips, or other potential items they are less accurate (hence free float handguards). If my front sight is sitting on that same part (itube) that can potentially move it will be less accurate from shot to shot as well.

Maybe I'm overthinking it?

2) I like the way the standard front sight looks. I know, I know, but there it is too. Something about them just make me feel all warm and melty inside. Maybe I watched Platoon or Apocalypse Now one too many times.

Edit: I'll buy whatever tools are necessary. Not a problem. I like to know how stuff works.

 

[Mexican_Hippie]

Wait, if I have to pull the barrel what type of trouble can I get into? I was thinking putting on free float handguards would be pretty simple to do. I don't want to have to redo headspace or cause some other major problem. I don't mind tinkering but don't want to do something that can blow up in my face if done wrong.

 

[bigflex]

You wouldn't need to pull the barrel. Just the delta ring and barrel nut. As for the guard. You will need to be sure it will accomidate a low profile gas block. A two piece rifle length will not work. They are designed for rifle length gas systems only. There are a few companies out there that make nice rifle length
FFHG's that will work with mid and carbine length gass systems. Take a look at my thread. I am using the UTG Pro ffhg in rifle length with a carbine length
gas system. I know many people turn there nose up at UTG products but after a lot of research and fondling different brands I honestly didn't see any good reason to spend the extra coin on the DD that I was going to get. The UTG Pro in my opinion is a great product unlike some of there other stuff. Good luck and I hope my insight will help you in your decision.

 

[Angered_Kabar]

AR barrels are headspaced when the barrel is made. All you need to do is make sure you torque the nut down to the proper range and align the little teeth on the nut for the gas tube to pass through them.

 

[bigflex]

Yes and yes except a ffhg uses a different barrel nut that has holes instead of notches. Not trying to bust balls here just giving info.

 

[shooterfpga]

with a mid length and a2 front sites, a 9'' rail is all youre going to get. unless you remove the FSB.

 

[M. Sage]

I'm considering getting it as-is and maybe doing the free float later. I didn't want to get it if I didn't have the option to change the guards later. Yeah, it seems like they have great prices. The reviews I've seen seem like they're pretty good.

Run it as-is. Magpul sells an "illumination kit" to mount a light and tape switch to those handguards. They've also got some options for mounting grips, including vertical grips that bolt directly to them. Outside of a grip and a light, what else could you want to put on your handguard?

 

[chubbyzook]

Yhm micro gas block, rifle length free float, drill and tap fsb, place infront of tube, use set screws and lock tite to hold in place. Now go shoot. Ive done this just make sure your barrel is an hbar, if not it can be profiled wrong.

 

[Mexican_Hippie]

Run it as-is. Magpul sells an "illumination kit" to mount a light and tape switch to those handguards. They've also got some options for mounting grips, including vertical grips that bolt directly to them. Outside of a grip and a light, what else could you want to put on your handguard?

Not sure I'll put much of anything on the handguard other than a sling mount, I mainly want the free float accuracy.

 

[M. Sage]

Not sure I'll put much of anything on the handguard other than a sling mount, I mainly want the free float accuracy.

What kind of ammo are you going to run? IMO unless you're going to run a scope and match ammo, it's not worth chasing that little bit of accuracy.

If you want it for accuracy, don't go with a free float rail. Save yourself some weight and get a free float tube instead.

 

[Tackleberry]

I've been looking at uppers and think I have figured out what I want. 16" barrel, mid-length gas / low profile block, pinned front sight at rifle length, free float rifle length handguards. I'm planning on keeping it with just iron sights, at least for a while; I like shooting iron sights.

PSA makes what they're calling a mock dissipator that looks very similar to what I want Palmetto State Armory 16'' 4150 Chrome-Lined, Premium Mid-length Mock Dissipator Upper

The only change I would make is to free float the handguards. All the ones I see with free float hanguards have either no sights up front or flip up sights on the rail, not on the barrel. I'd like to keep the front sight on the barrel and any slings, grips, etc. on the handguards.

My newbie AR question:
Could you replace the MOE handguards they have on it with a rifle length free float quadrail? Would it fit with length-wise the front sight on there? Are there certain brands that would work better to fit over the midlength gas block? I'm not scared to break out a dremel if it needs a little massage but don't want to make major alterations to a quadrail if I can avoid it.

I would talk to the guys at Palmetto to see if they can build exactly what you want. I will say this, I would have it built without the Delta Ring and spring and without a front sight block. The reason is that it will be easier to mount a free-float rail system. Most all free-float rails require the removal of the Delta ring and spring. I would use the 2-pc. free-float rails (I am partial to Midwest Industries) and use rail mounted flip-up sights.

Here is an example:

I had Del-Ton build the upper one this one for me. It has a 16" HBAR with a Carbine gas system and PRI lowprofile gas block. They omitted the Delta ring and spring so that I did not have to cut them off. I installed the MidwestIndustries 2 Piece Free Float Full Length Forearm (MCTAR-22), MidwestIndustries Same Plane Low Profile Flip Rear Sight (MCT-SPLP), and MidwestIndustries Flip Front Sight, Forearm Rail Model (MCTAR-FFR).

 

[Mexican_Hippie]

Appreciate all the input guys.

Sage brings a good point. What is the accuracy difference of freefloating?