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  • TX69

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    Dec 23, 2012
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    Actually it is

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

    I want to cage in the drivers seat/area as much as possible. Plate the door, under the seat, behind the seat back, floor boards. I am also looking at run-on tires too. :)
     

    vmax

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    Apr 15, 2013
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    1/2 inch mild carbon will just about last forever with pistols

    I use 3/4 or 1 inch for riifle

    I get scraps from a machine shop
     

    benenglish

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    Nov 22, 2011
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    The 3/4 and 1 inch don't create ricochet
    Yes, actually they do. In fact, the really thick stuff (if it's mild steel) is the worst. Pockmarks in the steel focus bullet fragments back toward the firing line. If you're going to shoot mild steel with high velocity rounds, use the thin stuff and just go ahead and poke clean holes all the way through it. Shooting 1" thick mild steel with, say, a .308 just creates a deep crater. The next projectile that goes into that crater will be focused right back at the firing line.

    I've been cut a number of time by bullets impacting pockmarked mild steel targets at 50 meters and then the bullet fragments coming straight back towards me. I won't shoot mild steel at under 100 yards (sometimes not even then) if the rifle guys have already had a chance to tear it up.

    Now, all that changes if you're shooting nothing but low-speed projectiles. Mild steel targets, of any reasonable thickness (at least 3/8") and even set pretty close, are good to go forever if you're just shooting .45 hardball. But once a single deep pockmark is put on the target, it's done. Move it way out yonder and finish destroying it with rifles.
     

    TX69

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    Dec 23, 2012
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    1/2 inch mild carbon will just about last forever with pistols

    I use 3/4 or 1 inch for riifle

    I get scraps from a machine shop

    What's needed to stop a bunch of 7.62 NATO?
     

    cbigclarke

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    Feb 24, 2009
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    cypress
    Yes, actually they do. In fact, the really thick stuff (if it's mild steel) is the worst. Pockmarks in the steel focus bullet fragments back toward the firing line. If you're going to shoot mild steel with high velocity rounds, use the thin stuff and just go ahead and poke clean holes all the way through it. Shooting 1" thick mild steel with, say, a .308 just creates a deep crater. The next projectile that goes into that crater will be focused right back at the firing line.

    I've been cut a number of time by bullets impacting pockmarked mild steel targets at 50 meters and then the bullet fragments coming straight back towards me. I won't shoot mild steel at under 100 yards (sometimes not even then) if the rifle guys have already had a chance to tear it up.

    Now, all that changes if you're shooting nothing but low-speed projectiles. Mild steel targets, of any reasonable thickness (at least 3/8") and even set pretty close, are good to go forever if you're just shooting .45 hardball. But once a single deep pockmark is put on the target, it's done. Move it way out yonder and finish destroying it with rifles.
    This ain't mild at all

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
     

    Shotgun Jeremy

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    Jul 8, 2012
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    Central Texas
    One trick you can do is basically making a double walled panel. By that, I mean you'll have your base layer of steel, and then there will be another layer about 2"-3" away from it. The idea here is the bullet will penetrate the first layer, causing it to deform and lose some velocity. Then, the deformed bullet will bounce off the second layer. The military uses a similar setup in protecting it's vehicles from RPGs, and I have also seen this work when I was testing out my failed blast tube. I can post a video later. Now, you'll want a way you can have the outer layer be exchangeable panels, but that's a way you can up armor a vehicle if you can't get your hands on AR 800 steel.
     
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