This is why some people shouldn't own tools...

[Mexican_Hippie]

You'd think someone forking out the dough on a Wilson would know it's pinned. Although, I've done similar at least once "fixing" my busted down vehicles back in high school. Contrary to popular belief, WD40 and a cheater bar is not always the answer

 

[fuelfather]

Ah ain't the brightest bulb in the string, but when ah'm takin' sumthin' apart an' it fights me, it's time to stop and think!

Which is why it always smells like some burned the beans at your house.

 

[fuelfather]

You'd think someone forking out the dough on a Wilson would know it's pinned. Although, I've done similar at least once "fixing" my busted down vehicles back in high school. Contrary to popular belief, WD40 and a cheater bar is not always the answer

That is what they made 1" impact wrenches for.

Don't feel too vad. I found out the hard way in high school that engine head bolts are only good for one time torque.

 

[TexasRedneck]

Which is why it always smells like some burned the beans at your house.

<sigh> The older they git, the easier it is for 'em ta fergit who the boss is......

 

[codygjohnson]

Those threads can be cleaned up. Use a FH like Wilson makes that does not use a crush washer. I think it's called a Vortex? It keeps it self tight by design. The last remaining threads shout be enough to keep it tight.

I'm not a expert on the shorter barrel law but I'm pretty sure the FH needs to pined or welded to meet the 16 inch rule.

He wants to run one of his suppressors, so I'm using a QD suppressor mount, YHM in this case. It'll give me another 1/2" to play with, so I might just cut the shoulder back another 1/2" and cut some new threads. It will have to be pinned to make it "permanent" and stay >16".

The flash suppressor you're thinking about is the Smith Vortex. They are really good flash suppressors, got one laying around waiting on a project.

 

[ROGER4314]

I worked in a steel mill and rebuilt a unit called a "Hadley" many times. The Hadley was driven by a 50 horsepower motor through a large gearbox. It had two large rollers that embossed a pattern on the steel to make it less flexible (stiffer) without increasing weight. The huge bearings on the Hadley shaft were held in place by large threaded lock rings and those rings would lock up so tight, it was impossible to remove them by unscrewing. Sometimes they galled in spite of using anti sieze and sometimes the shaft would deform but the rollers were about $30K per matched pair and they HAD to come off the shafts or be scrapped.

Each maintenance guy had their pet repair techniques and my favorite was to make two deep cuts in the ring with an air cut off tool. Make a deep cut at 12 o'clock and another at 3 o'clock and make them about 45 degrees from the shaft centerline so the cut off tool could cut through without cutting the bearing. The bearings were not reused after a Hadley crash but they blocked the cutoff tool from cutting the ring completely with a straight cut. When both cuts are finished, you break the cut segment out with an air chisel. The cut ring would then relax and it could be unthreaded or broken off if it still refused to move.

Making the cuts 180 degrees apart to break the ring in 1/2 worked but it was much harder to break the ring that way. The bearings, shafts and lock rings were very large and cutting one or two of those rings could take a whole shift.

The technique would have worked perfectly on the suppressor in question. Once the threaded portion relaxed, the unit could be threaded off.

TXR is correct. If it isn't moving.....STOP and check it out! Applying more force will simply mess it up.

My question is that AR barrels are not real expensive. Why not just leave the flash suppressor on it and get a dedicated barrel for the "can"? The path of LEAST resistance usually works best for me.

Flash

 

[codygjohnson]

My question is that AR barrels are not real expensive. Why not just leave the flash suppressor on it and get a dedicated barrel for the "can"? The path of LEAST resistance usually works best for me.

Flash

He assumed that it would be an easy screw off one, screw on the other. He also assumed 80 ft/lbs was just about right for removing it...lol. The method for removing it is just about like you said. I just cut right through the FS and straight to the pin. Bust it with a chisel, then unscrew it by hand. Usually takes 15 minutes and most guys charge about $25.

 

[Rum Runner]

The FS was put in place, then a hole is drilled through the FS and just barely into the threads. A pin is put in place, the hole is welded over, then the weld is sanded smooth and refinished.

Over 9000 hours in MSPaint:

I get it. Thank you very much.

 

[TheDan]

Contrary to popular belief, WD40 and a cheater bar is not always the answer

Correct... You also need to heat it with a torch until it glows, and then whack it with a hammer

 

[Kyle]

Correct... You also need to heat it with a torch until it glows, and then whack it with a hammer

...More often than not, force and fire are the solution...

My A/C control unit on my car was cutting in an out... Today is the one month anniversary that my temper (the fire) and my Fist (the force) went loose and punched the dash repeatedly until the air kicked back on. Hasn't given me any trouble so far!

 

[country_boy]

Which is why it always smells like some burned the beans at your house.

then those beans burn down your cabin.. had a hired hand do that to me. Ive had some (good) gun repairs last year that were fun.