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What have you done to your vehicle lately?

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  • SidewaysTA

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    Best answer I can give...it varies. It varies between differentials as they are not all the same literally (manufacturing tolerances vary) and it varies between the skill level and capabilities of the individual.

    You need some tools to setup properly. You need a way to measure bearing preload. This is done with a beam style or dial indicating torque wrench that can measure at least 50 in lbs.. I used a dial torque wrench.

    You need a way to measure backlash, this is typically done with a dial indicator like in my picture above.

    You need a way to measure your shims, so you could use a caliper or micrometer for that.

    There are other tools available that can help you set up gears but the ones above are pretty much the basic "specialty" tools. You also need a "regular" torque wrench to torque down fasteners and something to help you hold the pinion yoke while you torque the pinion nut.

    After you've made all the measurements and gotten everything "in spec" what ultimately matters is how the gears "pattern", how they mesh up together. At that point you simply have to put it together and take it apart to make shim adjustments (or adjust the adjuster nuts if you diff has those instead of shims) until you get a proper pattern (via marking compound, the yellow paint you see in one of my pictures above) and bearing preload.

    I suggest doing what I did. Research research research. There's a ton of information out there, Some of it is great information, some of it is bogus information. You have to weed through it and sort it out. There's also plenty of books on the subject as well. If you are anal like me and this is your first time, be prepared to put your diff together and take it apart several times before you get it setup properly.
    Lynx Defense
     

    rman

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    sounds like a job I would have tackled 10 years ago. Just too much going on and too much nagging wife lol.

    It might still be an option though, since I need to do front and rear, and paying (plus cost of a locker in the back) might be too much $$.
    I know that with my 35s my powerband isn't where it should be, and my next set of 37s will be worse.

    Sent from my SIG Sauer
     

    SidewaysTA

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    sounds like a job I would have tackled 10 years ago. Just too much going on and too much nagging wife lol.

    It might still be an option though, since I need to do front and rear, and paying (plus cost of a locker in the back) might be too much $$.
    I know that with my 35s my powerband isn't where it should be, and my next set of 37s will be worse.

    Sent from my SIG Sauer

    Most definitely 35s and 3.73s would suck. I have 35s on my jeep with factory 4.10s and it's ok but 4.56s or 4.88s would be much better.

    If you go 37s, I'm thinking you would be wanting 4.88s for sure if not bigger. Can't be sure as I don't know the power band of your vehicle but 37s on a jeep would necessitate 4.88s.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
     

    rman

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    Most definitely 35s and 3.73s would suck. I have 35s on my jeep with factory 4.10s and it's ok but 4.56s or 4.88s would be much better.

    If you go 37s, I'm thinking you would be wanting 4.88s for sure if not bigger. Can't be sure as I don't know the power band of your vehicle but 37s on a jeep would necessitate 4.88s.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
    6.0 powerstroke diesel... i think 4.30s would be closest to stock on 37s, it's been awhile since I did the research.

    4.56s would be badass but she already "screams" at 2k going about 70-75ish lol.

    Sent from my SIG Sauer
     

    SidewaysTA

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    6.0 powerstroke diesel... i think 4.30s would be closest to stock on 37s, it's been awhile since I did the research.

    4.56s would be badass but she already "screams" at 2k going about 70-75ish lol.

    Sent from my SIG Sauer
    Oh yeah, I was thinking gas motor. Diesel most definitely doesn't need as much gearing.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
     

    sharkey

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    Ok, not a mechanical question but thinking of adding some aftermarket wheels to the ATS. Mine is the base and silver color and the wheels are 5 spoke silver as well so it looks a bit plain. Thinking of going with a set made by Konig at Discount Tire in gloss black. Yea or Nay? Taking suggestions but for basically $100/wheel, I figured it would be a reasonably cheap way to kinda make it pop.
     

    rman

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    Ok, not a mechanical question but thinking of adding some aftermarket wheels to the ATS. Mine is the base and silver color and the wheels are 5 spoke silver as well so it looks a bit plain. Thinking of going with a set made by Konig at Discount Tire in gloss black. Yea or Nay? Taking suggestions but for basically $100/wheel, I figured it would be a reasonably cheap way to kinda make it pop.
    eh.... konig on a caddy is kinda ehhh...

    I'll admit, I'm currently scouring all the local classifieds for anything visually appealing a dirt cheap for my wife's navigator just for some rubber for the next 2 years before we get a new car... but if I were shopping for rims, for a newer car, I might pony up a bit.

    Might even be worthwhile to try to score the next trim model wheels, or some "premium" wheels off the ATS or another caddy with the same bolt pattern.

    Can always powdercoat as well to get it to "pop" a bit more.

    for instance hit craigslist, facebook marketplace, offerup, and find some ATS 2.0T (or whatever the top of line is called) wheels... instant upgrade and usually fairly affordable. Take it a step forward and send them to get powdercoated black or charcoal or something cool..

    Sent from my SIG Sauer
     

    mroper

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    I put some black rims with a chrome ring on my Silver STS. Most folks tell me they look good.

    Question alignment guys says my car can't be fully aligned because my struts are bad could this be true
    Gm is proud of those bitches
     

    texasnurse

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    Yep
    Check out www.rockauto.com
    0542232fc5ad4ad5d8dff4aa096b1bee.jpg

    Sent with my IPhone with electronics and fuzzy logic...
     
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    Reinstalled the ice cube tray looking thing back in under the hood vent. Without the tray rain gets to the front of the motor. With it and the rain gets channeled to the radiator area. When it stops raining I'll take it off and stick in it back in the trunk.
     

    SidewaysTA

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    Okay, so after the diff was together I buttoned up the rear suspension. Installed the new torque arm, panhard bar and anti-sway bar. The bump stops were rotten so I replaced them and added some spacers.

    20171126_160727_zpsstpeqp2a.jpg


    20171126_160706_zpsnzd22tiv.jpg


    20171126_160647_zpsfn1o6uej.jpg


    20171126_160119_zpsnh9iuui2.jpg
     

    pronstar

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    Lower front control arm bushings on my 99 Suburban were shot.

    Was cheaper to purchase new control arms, which include bushings and ball joints, than to press-out the old bushings and replace.

    She steers like a new-ish truck now, and rides better, too.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     
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    SidewaysTA

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    Yeah, I bought the car new in 2000 and it was my DD back in those days. Subframe connectors were the very first mod I did. Then a 3500 stall torque converter and a few bolt ons. :)
     

    SidewaysTA

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    So while upgrading the front suspension, I did a "Big 3" wiring upgrade. I upgraded the positive and negative battery cables and vehicle grounds to bigger wire. GM installed very dinky wiring on this car as seen in the pics. I also removed the original k-member and installed a tubular version. The motor mounts were removed and disassembled. I had the shells powder coated and then reassembled them with Prothane inserts. I removed the steering knuckle and upper control arm mount and strut assembly. I had those parts powder coated as well. The upper suspension mount had some rust on them, brushed the loose rust off and coated with rust converting paint, then etching primer then some paint. I reassembled the front suspension with tubular upper and lower control arms and new sway bar.

    Comparison of the old and new battery cables
    20171111_200348_zpstmsd2whf.jpg


    One of the new ground straps
    20171112_100603_zpsvpmvgp8o.jpg


    New wiring run in stock location
    20171112_100618_zpsoi2lhhz0.jpg


    K member removed
    20171028_200408_zps5idbj1ez.jpg


    Old K member and motor mount pedestals out
    20171029_160730_zpscagcx2pw.jpg


    Motor mounts removed, disassembled, powder coated and reinstalled with Prothane inserts.
    a457b1bc-dd19-4fd3-95dd-6dff68947684_zpswlxedqzq.jpg
    f4d7fa73-9b27-4e44-8a04-5844e600bdfc_zpsb8cogvzu.jpg
    b888c754-d602-4bb7-b10e-1ef24c7c1353_zpse0vzugni.jpg 9ef59322-4adf-4ff9-8d5b-cb95f0d0e6c8_zpsbwxajbyv.jpg

    More to come...
     

    SidewaysTA

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    Rust abatement on chassis
    Before, loose rust removed, rust treatment, primer, paint.
    3209ed27-852b-4a0d-bdae-bbc011d4b927_zpsjryz5xgi.jpg
    bff9d0f3-3fa5-4472-9edf-865a0535a080_zpsnhhuxvri.jpg

    4e8d550f-8353-4330-971c-2391b01afec3_zps4pbyn2nr.jpg
    f1f72eb0-ea06-4dcc-97c1-2d434afd5eee_zpsqg7bpuvq.jpg

    6543a18f-9c0d-45ba-9a1f-953ba6d5f7e4_zps9zlkphwh.jpg


    Steering knuckle and upper control arm mount powder coated.
    20171106_103406_zps6v32f6qu.jpg


    Tubular k member installed.
    20171111_131228_zpsp1nyz1fs.jpg


    Control arms, spring/strut and sway bars installed. Oh and new tie rods.
    20171112_232739_zps9o4xplgh.jpg

    20171124_164927_zpsmzwbholj.jpg

    20171124_164922_zpsd4oq8k5b.jpg

    20171124_164932_zpszlowf9ui.jpg

    20171124_164944_zpsjeozh1bv.jpg
     
    Last edited:

    Brains

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    Those sway bar brackets are a thing of beauty. The rest of the Spohn stuff looks great too, never used any of their gear, but was around for the drama shortly after the turn of the century ;)
     
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    From the days of 18yo children sticking 350 V8's in Chevy luv trucks.Somebody else running a 1967 cheville with a tunnel ram. Short bed Chevy bull nose pick up. 454.


    What a time. Now it's a 4gen firebird and camaro. It is beautiful.
     

    SidewaysTA

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    Those sway bar brackets are a thing of beauty. The rest of the Spohn stuff looks great too, never used any of their gear, but was around for the drama shortly after the turn of the century ;)

    Are you referring to del-sphere joint drama or is there some other drama I missed?

    My suspension parts are a mix of vendors actually, the sway bars, torque arm, trans mount and springs are BMR. The sway bar brackets came from UMI I believe. Everything else is Spohn.
     
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