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  • Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Jan 5, 2012
    18,591
    96
    HK
    Washed the motorcycle. Used a leaf blower to dry it. Some time this week Ill pull the one fork and see wtf is going on with the seal. Other then the fork leak it runs like a watch. Winter is over and its time to start riding.
     
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    Jan 5, 2012
    18,591
    96
    HK
    Time to do this

    769e7c419fa9b936b75184984c4bb38d.jpg


    fadb7897ca1bdedaeac8bece44efb3a9.jpg



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    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Jan 5, 2012
    18,591
    96
    HK
    Notice the spring on the inside seal lip. It popped off. Theres the problem.

    bd1ee9eabb5c365ae71e8cc38fa95adc.jpg


    Im gonna let the other parts drain. Then ill wipe it all down and put it back together. Suzuki says the oil level with the fork compressed is 6" from the top of the tube. I forgot if thats with the damper spring in the tube. Considering you can change the oil without removing the whole fork. Id suspect its with the damper spring in the tube.


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    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Jan 5, 2012
    18,591
    96
    HK
    Didn't you do this last year?

    Yep. The factory seal was replaced. I've let it leak for a year. It's the new seal throwing a fit.

    I was wrong on the oil level and the damper spring. Copied this off the Suzuki M50 forum...

    "The service manual says:

    Suzuki Fork Oil SS-08 (#10) or equivilent fork oil

    Front Fork Oil Capacity (each leg): 412ml / 13.9 oz.

    Front Fork oil level service limit: 177mm / 6.96 in.

    When adjusting the oil level, remove the fork spring and compress the inner tube fully."

    Ill fill it to a depth of 7".
     
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Jan 5, 2012
    18,591
    96
    HK
    Theres a specific tool for this. Only Suzuki has it. It compresses the damper spring while holding the damper plunger.

    I made a tool.

    0bcd4a8fc3e5ffae3b63068cf718ba9e.jpg


    The strings hold things in place. Using your third hand you can get to where you can screw the cap back on. Pull the metal thing I made out and the plastic thingy pops up to the cap after its screwed to the plunger. Then the cap is screwed to the fork tube. The strings get cut and pulled out after the cap gos on the plunger.

    Were almost done.


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    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Jan 5, 2012
    18,591
    96
    HK
    Strings removed. Cap is on and tightened. The lock nut on the rod is snugged up to the cap.

    07e22180e9a97d79ad388a819bbb6848.jpg


    5affcc7c90dfb5c0b8fefa8f1f3a8691.jpg



    6e760c9c16da20a01414f7dc7bb039ef.jpg


    One fork seal fixed. At least it better be. Ill tighten the cap a little better once its back on the bike.






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    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Jan 5, 2012
    18,591
    96
    HK
    I need to torque all this.

    These specs look close enough. The owners manual has the axle bolt and axle bolt pinch bolt torque figures. All I needed was the values on the triple tree.

    front axle: 72.5 ftlbs
    front axle pinch bolts: 16.5 ftlbs
    brake caliper bolts: 28 ftlbs
    clip on pinch bolts: 16.5 ftlbs
    lower triple tree pinch bolts: 16.5 ftlbs
    upper triple tree pinch bolts: 16.5 ftlbs


    I'm using an inch pound torque wrench. 16.5 foot pounds = 198inch pounds.
     

    spuds015

    Member
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Dec 28, 2016
    79
    11
    When I used to work on motorcycles I always dreaded for seals. Guaranteed giant mess haha. I'd rather do spark plugs in a zg1400.

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    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Jan 5, 2012
    18,591
    96
    HK
    When I used to work on motorcycles I always dreaded for seals. Guaranteed giant mess haha. I'd rather do spark plugs in a zg1400.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

    Better yet. The Suzuki M50 is famous for timing chain knock. Around 40k miles it go's to $hit. This particular motor has the timing chain in the middle of the engine. The whole Damn motor has to be taken apart to fix it. Other engines you can pull the side cover to get to the chain. Nope, not this one. That's when you throw the bike away and get another one. It's only the motor in the m50 boulevard. The C50(classic boulevard) engine is made different and doesn't have the same problem.

    If you ever hear this noise. Walk away.

     

    TxStetson

    Opinionated and Irritable
    TGT Supporter
    Lifetime Member
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    May 9, 2013
    10,067
    96
    The Big Country
    Better yet. The Suzuki M50 is famous for timing chain knock. Around 40k miles it go's to $hit. This particular motor has the timing chain in the middle of the engine. The whole Damn motor has to be taken apart to fix it. Other engines you can pull the side cover to get to the chain. Nope, not this one. That's when you throw the bike away and get another one. It's only the motor in the m50 boulevard. The C50(classic boulevard) engine is made different and doesn't have the same problem.

    If you ever hear this noise. Walk away.


    It sounds like a rod knocking.
     

    Shotgun Jeremy

    Spelling Bee Champeon
    Lifetime Member
    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0
    Jul 8, 2012
    11,247
    96
    Central Texas
    Do a search on Ceramic car wax. If the permanence and price isn't to your liking. Turtle wax for black paint. It'll stain your hands black for a day. Big bag of microfiber towels.

    Black&Decker orbital polisher and two buckets. One for soap and the other to rinse the mitt out. Use a leaf blower to dry it. Don't touch the paint and don't rub anything sitting on the paint.

    Nice truck....a hell of better then the blazer.
    Dude - check this out.

    A new car detailing place has opened up in town - Bulldog Auto Detailing. I see them constantly have some pretty sweet rides out side, so I stopped by to check them out. At one point, I brought up the ceramic wax and asked them for their opinion on it and a possible quote. He tells me about how good it is and all the perks, so I asked him how much it would run to do my truck in a 3 layer wax. He's humming and hawing, walking around and checking it out, so I mentioned it shouldn't be too much work since the truck is still new and the body is pretty smooth. He shouldn't even need to clay bar it first. He cuts me off and says "oh no, it's pretty bad - you see all those swirl marks?? That's going to take some work".

    So I play along because at this point, I'm already out but I'm still in for the entertainment. Ok man, so tell me how much you think it will run me to work through all those swirl marks and make it look smooth again. "Yea man, I can get those out. By the time i'm done, you'll be able to read street signs a 1/4 mile away in the reflection." I say are you sure about that? The paint job already has a ton of orange peel in it from the factory. The clear coat is smooth to the touch, but underneath it is the orange peel probably because the factory rushed the paint job - It's common. I'm not going to hold it against you, but I'd be surprised if you actually get it that smooth and deep. "You know, I don't like to put myself up on a pedistool or anything, but yea -I'm just that good. You'd be surprised what I can do. But that's why I charge the way I do - it's worth it" Ok, ok, so again - how much am I looking at paying?? "Man, I could probably get you in at $1,400. You know, this is top of the line service I do. I've been full of cars coming to me to get ceramic wax done. Just last week I had a car in that was so nice, I couldn't post it on FB because the owner didn't want anyone to know it was here. It was one of those we had to drop it off and pick it up at 2 in the morning kind of deals. We just have a lot of good work that comes out of here"


    Dude....I was done. LMAO $1,400 to wax my truck???? Swirl marks are going to take some work to get out with wax???? GTFO!!!!!
     
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