What have you done to your vehicle lately?

[G O B]

Putting the parking brake pedal assy back in the '88 Comanche in the avatar. Passed inspection all the way to the E-brake. The pawl quit at testing.
Been working on 'er - got everything free, new springs and repaired where the cable anchors on the assy, the hole had worn so big the cable was no longer anchored. Got her jacked up and the equalizer threads soaking in penetrating oil. Now to back it off so I can attach the other end and put th pedal back in the truck.
May the asshole who put that bolt BEHIND the fuse block BURN in HELL!

 

[V-Tach]

Put the new motor in the Club Car this evening.....runs like a new cart.......used a floor jack to help lift the heavy bastage into place......

 

[bigtex10mm]

4 new All-Terrain tires and front brake pads. 108,252 miles. Not too shabby.....expensive but not too shabby!!

 

[Coiled]

Soaking in WD40 over night, now the hard part.
Any tips on bit(s) to drill out the bolt? Looks like only the threaded section below the shoulder. I have a Dremel, too.
Only a Tractor Supply and small chain hardware store nearby for quick access.
Also, where to find such an odd shoulder bolt? 7/64" hex head.

 

[V-Tach]

I've never had any luck with easy outs. The are very hard and brittle. If you have access to a drill press or mill, chances of drilling it out are increased. Use a centerpunch in the middle of the bolt to help keeping the bit from walking. Jobber length bits (most common) will bend and try to walk. Once the hole is started off center......it is a more difficult job. If you have access to screw machine bits (shorter) it would be better.

Start with the smallest diameter and repeat with increasingly larger bits. If you do use an easy out, be very careful when applying torque to it and be as perpendicular as possible to the easy out. once one is broken off in the bolt it becomes an extremely more difficult task.

 

[Coiled]

It's been so long since using an easy out I can't recall the outcome but do remember a struggle.
Thanks for the tips / reminders V-Tach.

 

[Dawico]

Truck needed front brake pads and figured I'd rotate the tires since I had a big jack handy and could do both at once.

 

[TheDan]

Soaking in WD40 over night, now the hard part.
Any tips on bit(s) to drill out the bolt? Looks like only the threaded section below the shoulder. I have a Dremel, too.
Only a Tractor Supply and small chain hardware store nearby for quick access.
Also, where to find such an odd shoulder bolt? 7/64" hex head.


View attachment 314380

If you can find some tubing that snugly fits in the hole you can use that for a drill guide. If not, just eyeball it with a center punch. Get some left-hand drill bits. Order them if you have to... They'll be worth the wait.

 

[msharley]

Thursday, had the rear springs replaced on my old truck. '87 F 350.

10 leaf. W/ 4 leaf helpers.

Had it done at the Spring Shop..(been dealing with them for 50yrs...already)

All new hardware...

They said I had a bunch of busted leafs....(I saw two, when I put the summer tires on the other week)

 

[Prisondoc210]

Oil change on my F-150.

Sent from my SM-T720 using Tapatalk

 

[Alan R McDaniel Jr]

I have a 17 Tundra. 99,780 miles. I put gas in it...

Actually, about 6 mos ago I found that I had neglected the brake pads. I checked on how much to turn the rotors and it was $40 less than new rotors. So I just put new rotors on it (and new pads or course). If I'd have been paying attention it would have only required the pads...


Alan

 

[Coiled]

If you can find some tubing that snugly fits in the hole you can use that for a drill guide. If not, just eyeball it with a center punch. Get some left-hand drill bits. Order them if you have to... They'll be worth the wait.

Makes sense but I've never even heard of left-hand bits. I wonder if my impatience screwed me; we will never know.

Flooded with WD while drilling and very low speeds so minimal heat. I started the dimple with a tungsten Dremel bit. As you can see by the blue Tee at the bottom of the hole, I accidentally drilled all the way through and the easy-out only made the hole larger. Apparently the steel is galled to aluminum and it won't budge.

These are extremely low production, maybe 50 pair/yr, aftermarket highway pegs for the BMW K bike. I sent the designer / seller (he contracts machining) an email yesterday asking for help including shoulder bolt details and he has yet to reply.

Perhaps my next step is to find a machinist that can solve the problem.

 

[V-Tach]

I agree a machinist should be your next step.....

 

[F350-6]

Can you drill it out and use a larger bolt? Drill and tap the hole, lots of anit-sieze so it doesn't do it again.

 

[Salted]

2006 Magnum SRT8, just put new wheel bearing assemblies all the way around.

 

[TheDan]

2006 Magnum SRT8

When are you doing a Challenger nose swap?

 

[Salted]

When are you doing a Challenger nose swap?
View attachment 314989

Yoooooooo... Never seen that before. Time to break out my Google-fu and see how this works.

 

[Brains]

It quite literally bolts up, no massaging necessary.

 

[Coiled]

Can you drill it out and use a larger bolt? Drill and tap the hole, lots of anit-sieze so it doesn't do it again.

Maybe. I had a tap & die set before the big D some 20 yrs ago. It's likely around here somewhere but I'll have to dig for it since I haven't needed it until now.

Found out today the threads are 3/16" x 24 so a little progress.

 

[V-Tach]

This gentleman used a couple ideas that I will definitely try on the next broken bolts I come across....I had not seen these ideas before.....