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2022 Gardening Thread

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  • Younggun

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    My experience with Miracle grow is that it can be used to get plants going, but it tends to result in far more plant growth than fruit production.


    I’ no expert though. Just my experience.
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    Axxe55

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    My experience with Miracle grow is that it can be used to get plants going, but it tends to result in far more plant growth than fruit production.


    I’ no expert though. Just my experience.
    Actually, I'm going to use it very sparingly. Package says to use every 7 to 14 days. So I'll probably use it at the longer intervals of 14 days or longer. My father suggested using it and he uses his about once a month.
     

    Axxe55

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    Understood. But all the more reason to use organic potting soil and additives. Organic potting soils have much more minerals which translate into more nutritious vegetables with higher vitamins and mineral contents.
    I'll have to look into what Tractor Supply or Lowes carries. Last year I didn't use any additives on my vegetables and they did decently. Just cow manure mixed into the soil and added a few bags of potting soil to the mix.

    Our soil where I'm planting and using for the containers is pretty sandy. So far the only think I planted in ground are the corn and the potatoes, and some onions.
     

    BuzzinSATX

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    I don’t know the proper name for them but they are the small branches that grow/sprout from the axil or top of the junction of branch and stem.

    They provide nothing but rob energy from tomato production.
    Yes!

    But one thing you can do with suckers, especially if they are quite long (5” or more) is you can use them to grow a new plant.

    Get a small starter container (red solo cups work well) and fill 3/4 with vermiculite or seed starter soil. Water thoroughly

    Snip the sucker at the base and dip in root stimulator:


    Bury/plant the stem at least two inches in the container (deeper is better).

    Keep the potting mix damp. Your cutting will have roots in a week or so.
     

    2ManyGuns

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    I don’t know the proper name for them but they are the small branches that grow/sprout from the axil or top of the junction of branch and stem.

    They provide nothing but rob energy from tomato production.
    Removing suckers is not always "good" when working with determinate varieties of tomato. Removing them can reduce your yield, say when growing Roma tomatoes.
     

    2ManyGuns

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    With determinate varieties of tomato, I will normally prune the first 12-18 inches to prevent disease and promote airflow, in this space try planting bush-type beans or maybe some type of herbs to provide ground cover, the beans can fix nitrogen.
     

    2ManyGuns

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    I'll have to look into what Tractor Supply or Lowes carries. Last year I didn't use any additives on my vegetables and they did decently. Just cow manure mixed into the soil and added a few bags of potting soil to the mix.

    Our soil where I'm planting and using for the containers is pretty sandy. So far the only think I planted in ground are the corn and the potatoes, and some onions.
    To add minerals, try some azomite. When planting tomatoes, I will usually add a few handfuls of Epsom salts to a 4' X 8' bed, potatoes about 1 inch below the seed potato, 2 tablespoons 13-13-13, 2 teaspoon bone meal, and blood meal, this will give the potatoes a "boost:" A little goes a long way IF your soil is pretty good.
     
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    FNORD

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    Removing suckers is not always "good" when working with determinate varieties of tomato. Removing them can reduce your yield, say when growing Roma tomatoes.

    Determinate, that’s a term I haven’t heard in two coons’ ages.

    Yes, you’re right. We only grew heirloom varieties that were indeterminate. Hence,...

    Thanks.
     

    Axxe55

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    Removing suckers is not always "good" when working with determinate varieties of tomato. Removing them can reduce your yield, say when growing Roma tomatoes.

    With determinate varieties of tomato, I will normally prune the first 12-18 inches to prevent disease and promote airflow, in this space try planting bush-type beans or maybe some type of herbs to provide ground cover, the beans can fix nitrogen.

    Determinate, that’s a term I haven’t heard in two coons’ ages.

    Yes, you’re right. We only grew heirloom varieties that were indeterminate. Hence,...

    Thanks.
    I'm going to ask a dumb question because I haven't ever heard of "determinate variety", and what is that exactly?
     

    FNORD

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    Determinate varieties do not keep growing remaining more bush like not necessarily requiring to be staked.

    Indeterminate are more vine like require staking if space is a consideration.
     

    2ManyGuns

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    I would call it trellising more than staking, last year I tried some indeterminate plants, I had vines a bit over 20 feet by the time the first frost hit. Each has its +'s and -'s, both types produced very nicely for me, the indeterminate does require some TLC to keep them from becoming unruly, you can top the main vine; like you would a tree and stop the lengthening, but that can lead to a more "fan-like" shape because you will need to let new "branches" grow in order to continue producing.
     

    10-96inTexas

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    Our buckets are coming along. Squash are starting to show up. No jalapenos yet. Lots of tomatoes but I didn't know my wife got cherry tomatoes. Going to take a lot of them to make salsa.

    20220504_155223.jpg
     

    jordanmills

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    Determinate varieties do not keep growing remaining more bush like not necessarily requiring to be staked.

    Indeterminate are more vine like require staking if space is a consideration.
    Determinate grow until they reach a determined size (based on cultivar, climate, and other conditions) then set and ripen all the fruit at once. Indeterminate continue to grow and produce fruit as resources are available until killed by frost or disease.
     

    2ManyGuns

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    I would add to this thread, START ordering your seeds for Fall and Spring now! Hearsay is that there will be shortages. Gurney's (not affiliated, just order seeds from them and Burpee), has seed potatoes in stock, at reduced prices, get ready for your Fall season, Yukon Gold, Pontiac, and Lasoda, as of last night. Don't forget your cowpeas, and others to replenish the nitrogen in your soil, provide ground cover and of course, eat! If you have the area, plant a patch, and let it dry to make more pea seeds. Amazon has some Dent heirloom corn seed, for making cornmeal or corn flour, while not cheap, it will not break the bank either, drying corn can be a lifesaver. With corn, peas/legumes, and potatoes you can remain very healthy and get your nutrients.

    For seasoning, plant those herbs and peppers! I dried basil in the oven yesterday, and will do parsley this weekend and maybe some dill, I am short on herbs for cooking, this is an area I missed! Hot peppers can be dried and crushed, and garlic and onions can store for a long time.

    Make a trip to TSC, pick up some fertilizer like the 13-13-13, it is cheap now, 1# to a 100 sf can go a long way if needed. If you are clearing underbrush, make biochar, soak in a fertilizer/nutrient mixture to amend your soil, think terra preta, you tube this. Get your azomite, this has gone up $10 a bag since spring, bone meal, blood meal, epsom salts. Do not forget flower seeds to draw in the pollinators, Marigolds to deter some pests.

    Compost your lawn clippings, shrub trimmings, and food waste. If you do not have enough "greens" for composting, get the horse alfalfa cubes or pellets at TSC, mix a little of those nutrients mentioned above, even a small amount of the 13-13-13. If you have a wood chipper, make your own mulch.

    BE WARY of compost or manure at the big box stores, GRAZON, seems to have gotten into the supply chain, this is from people who have had the "shriveled" plants after applying those products, make your own.


    Try this Gurney's offer code, 0573016, it should be good for free shipping on orders over $50.
     
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