I'm Switching Motor Oils

[vmax]

I've run nothing but Mobil 1 & a Motorcraft filter on my last three Ford trucks.

I sold the 2007 F150 to my BIL at 140k, it has 175k on it now and going strong. He swears it runs like new.

My current truck is an F250 gasser with about 50k. Since it's first oil change (I perform them all) it's been Motorcraft filter and Mobil 1 - every 5k - easier to remember changing at the 5's!

Since I change at such short intervals, I'm thinking about switching to Castrol GTX High Mileage synthetic blend, and the same Motorcraft filter. The oil is about half the cost of the Mobil 1.

Any experience with the Castrol GTX? Thoughts?

Any high quality engine oil meeting API service category "SN" will work if you are only going 5000 miles.
As long as you use the correct grade for your engine.
My question is why are you only going 5000 in between changes? You are likely draining out oil with 2500 more miles left in it.
Unless you are driving under some very serious severe conditions, run it to 7500 (check your manual of course )

Mobil 1 Full synthetic, with an extended service filter is capable of going well over 10K miles in most cases.

If you want to save money..,keep the Mobil and just get your use out of it..

You might run some calculations, but getting an extra 2500 miles in between drains might be more savings that switching oils..

 

[Lost Spurs]

For anyone that is needing their fill of fluid info, check out this site. It is the catalog of all approved Mercedes fluids, globally. I have only had to venture here to research several times. Usually, it is in regards to some race car application. Or when the boss asks if xyz is compatible. Stateside, Mercedes is generally Mobil 1 only for engine oil. All other fluids are the "house" bottle. There are several specific cases where our limited slip diff and our dual clutch transaxle use castrol.

Mercedes-Benz Betriebsstoff-Vorschriften

Die Mercedes-Benz Betriebsstoff-Vorschriften zeigen eine Übersicht der Anforderungen der im Fahrzeug benötigten Betriebsstoffe und der empfohlenen Produkte. Betriebsstoffe sind alle zum Betrieb eines Mercedes-Fahrzeugs / Aggregats erforderlichen Flüssigkeiten bzw. Schmiermittel z.B. Kraftstoff...

bevo.mercedes-benz.com

A basic search if you are interested could be 229.51, which is one of our most common gas engine oils.

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[Vaquero]

Any high quality engine oil meeting API service category "SN" will work if you are only going 5000 miles.
As long as you use the correct grade for your engine.
My question is why are you only going 5000 in between changes? You are likely draining out oil with 2500 more miles left in it.
Unless you are driving under some very serious severe conditions, run it to 7500 (check your manual of course )

Mobil 1 Full synthetic, with an extended service filter is capable of going well over 10K miles in most cases.

If you want to save money..,keep the Mobil and just get your use out of it..

You might run some calculations, but getting an extra 2500 miles in between drains might be more savings that switching oils..

This is the "go to" lubricant guy.

 

[GasGuzzler]

Why not rebuild the 6.0 you have?

There's nothing wrong with it at all. If I sell the Yukon it wouldn't matter what engine is in it because it's so old. I'd like to keep the 6.0 for later.

 

[1911'S 4 Me]

There were very few quarts of any oil on the Walmart shelf this morning.

 

[dsgrey]

Maybe I'm not paying enough. A gallon of Mobil 1 and an OEM filter costs me about $30. I hear horror stories of whatever-out-of-a-barrel oil and unknown brand filter at the lube places costing $70 or more. Granted some vehicles take 5 or 6 quarts but a Mobil jug for $22-24 off the shelf at Walmart versus the cheapest brand name jug being $18-$19 isn't that much difference.

 

[Brains]

Just did an oil change on my car, and they didn't have any single quarts so I had to buy two 5 quart jugs. Takes 7 quarts.

 

[robertc1024]

Just did an oil change on my car, and they didn't have any single quarts so I had to buy two 5 quart jugs. Takes 7 quarts.

May be better in the long run cost wise. They seem to rape me on single bottle prices.

 

[BillM]

I've got an old Trailblazer with nearly 250k on it and it still runs good, although the trans went out. I always use Valvoline or whatever Walmart oil they have on sale. I think it has a lot to do with the way people drive for the most part.

 

[mroper]

I've got an old Trailblazer with nearly 250k on it and it still runs good, although the trans went out. I always use Valvoline or whatever Walmart oil they have on sale. I think it has a lot to do with the way people drive for the most part.

If it is pre-90's you might want to think about using Rotella t-4 it would appreciate the higher zinc

 

[BillM]

If it is pre-90's you might want to think about using Rotella t-4 it would appreciate the higher zinc

They didn't make them until 2002, I think. Those one is 2003.

 

[Fletcherjl]

I have been in the Auto service industry for over a decade. I will literally not run a vehicle with anything but Mobil 1 in it. Whe. We buy new vehicles every April the first thing I do is have the oil swapped over to Mobil 1. That being said we rarely keep a vehicle passed 30k miles so high mileage I can't speak to.

 

[Grumps21]

I have been in the Auto service industry for over a decade. I will literally not run a vehicle with anything but Mobil 1 in it. Whe. We buy new vehicles every April the first thing I do is have the oil swapped over to Mobil 1. That being said we rarely keep a vehicle passed 30k miles so high mileage I can't speak to.

Hmmm. Why go through the extra trouble and expense for something you do not intend to keep past the warranty period? Whats the benefit? Why not just use conventional Dino at whatever API, weight and frequency the manual calls for?

 

[skfullgun]

Hmmm. Why go through the extra trouble and expense for something you do not intend to keep past the warranty period? Whats the benefit? Why not just use conventional Dino at whatever API, weight and frequency the manual calls for?

Good questions.

I only fret over oil and filters because I usually keep mine well past 100k. I bought a 1996 F-150 with 40k on it back in '98. My sons and I passed it back and forth between us until it had about 260,000 miles on it. Then it was sold to a distant relative who drove it until they wrecked it. And that truck had the old straight six, 300 engine in it. We never babied it but it got oil & filter changes every 5k.

 

[Txhillbilly]

It's the lack of oil pressure at startup so the lifters aren't pumped up and you have excessive valve lash until oil pressure comes up, lifters extend and lash is gone.

Any "ticking " at startup is probably due to variable displacement stuff.

In a Ford engine, it's the cam phaser's causing the ticking 99% of the time.

 

[Brains]

Good questions.

I only fret over oil and filters because I usually keep mine well past 100k. I bought a 1996 F-150 with 40k on it back in '98. My sons and I passed it back and forth between us until it had about 260,000 miles on it. Then it was sold to a distant relative who drove it until they wrecked it. And that truck had the old straight six, 300 engine in it. We never babied it but it got oil & filter changes every 5k.

You shouldn't have bothered. The Ford 300 six can't be killed.

I had an '88 F-150, 300 six 5 speed, standard cab long bed. It had ... "lots" ?? of miles. I traded some computer stuff for it, probably around 400 bucks worth. It had a lot of miles already, and it came with the instruction that it leaked a lot of oil so put a quart or so in at every fill-up. Sure, ok. I did that for a bit, then I ... Well I just didn't. I'd drive it until the top end was rattling like marbles in a can because there was no oil pressure to pump up the lifters. Then I'd eventually find a couple quarts of oil, sometimes the same day even. You'd think it would have at least spun a bearing, but nope. That motor was too darned stubborn to die.

Sold it to a couple guys wanting a work truck for $800 cash.

 

[Strat942]

You know mobil 1 of today is natural gas based and not an Ester oil base. It's not the same oil Mario Andretti used to pitch. It's no better than your average syn oil. Save money and use the castrol magnatec. It's pretty cheap and it clings to the engine.

It is synthesized from natural gas, thus "synthetic" and not fractionally distilled from crude oil. It therefore has more uniform hydrocarbon molecule chain lengths. It is all I have used for years. Switched to it when I lived in Iowa where winter temperatures reached -20F and lower. Mobil 1, which I believe was the first synthetic oil on the market, maintained its viscosity at these temperatures and didn't thicken up making the engine crank much faster.

 

[ZX9RCAM]

It is synthesized from natural gas, thus "synthetic" and not fractionally distilled from crude oil. It therefore has more uniform hydrocarbon molecule chain lengths. It is all I have used for years. Switched to it when I lived in Iowa where winter temperatures reached -20F and lower. Mobil 1, which I believe was the first synthetic oil on the market, maintained its viscosity at these temperatures and didn't thicken up making the engine crank much faster.

Welcome to the Forum!

 

[DallasCMT]

As stated on another post, I’m moving to the Costco private label because it’s an even better deal. Oil is oil, and I’m not sure if there is that much more protection brand over brand

I've used Pennzoil Platinum for many years on 3-4 cars, but last year switched to Costco's Kirkland brand (by Warren Distribution) as well. Great oil ratings and price is/was great - it has gone up a bit, but hoping they'll still have occasional sales.

 

[pronstar]

He’s not the final word for oil, but search “Project Farm oil” on YouTube and you’ll see a bunch of tests he did with a bunch of different types and brands of oil.


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