Need Help Getting Started

[orbitup]

I want to start loading .45 ACP and .308. I'll be adding .44 spcl and 9mm soon. I have an old Dillon 450jr that I got from someone a while back. It looks like it's been sitting around for a long time before I got it. It has .45 dies on it but I can't use it for the .308 so I am looking at getting another press. A Lee Classic Turret has been suggested. I also have these dies.

I have a ton of questions! Let me start with a few.

Do I need to buy a powder/expanding die for .45? The RCBS kit has an expanding die but no way to add powder. Should I just buy a 4 piece set?

Should I get the Dillon fixed up and use it for pistol calibers and just get a Lee Breech Lock press for the .308?

The .308 will only be going through my new bolt gun so I was thinking of getting the 2 piece Lee collet dies. Is that a good way to go?

 

[grasshopperglock]

First question is Yes. Unless you want have set the casings up one by one. Filling them one by one. Powder through die, does this as it bells the casing. No reason to buy a set, if all you need is a powder thro die.

Second question. Dillion is nice stuff. Id fix it up. I think cal conversions on those are expensive. If the lee is cheaper. Get lee for pistol. Dillion for rifle.

Third question. Have no idea. Never reloaded 308.


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[Younggun]

Lee classic turret.

Easy caliber changes and can be run as an auto index or single stage.

Works great when you start adding calibers.

 

[grasshopperglock]

This is what I used. Im not gonna try and sell you on it. Cuz it does the same thing as the classic.

The case feeding tubes ROCK.


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[grasshopperglock]

The die set you have will work. The forth die you sometimes see is a 'factory crimp die'. All it does is crimp the casing inward. Biting into the bullet land. Helps keep the bullet from being pushed back in the casing. Used for auto loading handguns.


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[orbitup]

The die set you have will work. The forth die you sometimes see is a 'factory crimp die'. All it does is crimp the casing inward. Biting into the bullet land. Helps keep the bullet from being pushed back in the casing. Used for auto loading handguns.


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The third die on my RCBS kit seats and crimps. I guess that's why I was looking at the beech lock press. I could powder off of the press and then seat/crimp after.

I like the turret too. Being new to this I want to pay attention with every step.

 

[grasshopperglock]

The third die on my RCBS kit seats and crimps. I guess that's why I was looking at the beech lock press. I could powder off of the press and then seat/crimp after.

I like the turret too. Being new to this I want to pay attention with every step.

After reloading 100 rounds....you sure do notice all the steps your taking.

After awhile, you start thinking how to make it quicker.

Powder off press....of course itll work. But returning all those cases back to the press for bullets?

Is gonna be a huge pain in the ass.

If you make it a station on the press, its over and done with.

The only steps you paying attention too.

Primer seating( is it deep enough).

Case flare. Is it flaring just enough to accept the bullet or really belling the casing out, stretching the brass, work harding it. Once the die is set. Its problem free.

Powder measure. Is each case getting a correct dose? You'll make friends with the machine. Build a little trust that powder is getting dumped right. Check every now and then. Prolly the most common thing you'll look over as you reload.

Bullet seating. Correct overall length. Again once the die is set, your inserting the bullet right, its trouble free.

And Crimp. Make sure its not too tight or not tight enough.

Then its just insert case, crank, set bullet, crank, insert case, crank, insert bullet, check powder feeder level, primers, crank


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[Younggun]

I would recommending setting the die so that it doesn't crimp since you will be firing from a bolt gun.

Match ammo doesn't have a groove and I get better accuracy from neck tension than a crimp.

Ok, back to the subject at hand. Lee classic turret.

 

[orbitup]

Okay okay, turret!

The set I have (.45) comes with an expanding die. That would be station #2. So I would just need to get a charging die.

On the .308, since I'm not crimping, I would have an unused spot on the turret. Right?

 

[rsayloriii]

Okay okay, turret!

The set I have (.45) comes with an expanding die. That would be station #2. So I would just need to get a charging die.

On the .308, since I'm not crimping, I would have an unused spot on the turret. Right?

On the .45, with Lee dies (for me, other brands can be different but similar), #1 is depriming (aka decapping), on the interchange between dies is the primer seating, #2 is case mouth belling and powder drop, #3 bullet seating, #4 (if there is) bullet crimp.

On rifle calibers, #1 depriming, interchange is primer seating, (for me, larger calibers are charged with powder off press) #2 is either powder drop or bullet seating, #3 is either bullet seating or crimp, #4 is either empty or crimp. Crimp depends on the cartridge, some have some don't. Nice thing about Lee dies, IMO, is that it is a taper crimp instead of a roll crimp.

 

[grasshopperglock]

On the .308, since I'm not crimping, I would have an unused spot on the turret. Right?

Yes. Rifle die sets are usually just a sizer and a bullet seat. That also snugs the casing to the bullet. Taper crimp.

*** youll see 5.56 dies sets with a roll crimp die. Same reason as the pistol roll crimp die. So the bullet don't set back, getting banged around and shoved up a ramp

Rifle rounds have to be lubed. Before sizing. Their length causes them to stick in the sizing die. Uber pain to remove too.

They make lube sprays and gels. Dry and wet


Thats why they make all the crap:

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[orbitup]

From what I've read, if I'm reloading for one gun only (.308) I only need to resize the neck. That's why I was thinking about getting the collet dies.

 

[grasshopperglock]

From what I've read, if I'm reloading for one gun only (.308) I only need to resize the neck. That's why I was thinking about getting the collet dies.

I believe a collet die just makes sure the neck is formed to spec. Its for certain types of rifle. I don't remember just why. Something about the chamber?

Anyway, no problem using them on your bolt.


Its not gonna hurt anything. Prolly be cool to reload with.


Reloading is more forgiving them people give it credit. Sure you have to be careful. But you don't have to be that anal, unless youre trying to shoot bench rest.

Unless it's 40 cal. That round takes a careful eye. Measured right. Or things go ka boom. Its loaded hot for what it is. Safe to say, not a beginners round to reload.

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[rsayloriii]

From what I've read, if I'm reloading for one gun only (.308) I only need to resize the neck. That's why I was thinking about getting the collet dies.

Correct, as long as that brass has only ever been loaded in the one gun. The case isn't the exact size of the chamber, and when you fire, the case is fire formed to the exact dimensions of the chamber. Every gun will be slightly different, even between same models. That is why you use a full length resizing die if reloading for different rifles of the same caliber. However, that does wear out the brass slightly faster. Neck sizing only saves the brass from wear and tear, and aids in the accuracy, somewhat.

 

[grasshopperglock]

Correct, as long as that brass has only ever been loaded in the one gun. The case isn't the exact size of the chamber, and when you fire, the case is fire formed to the exact dimensions of the chamber. Every gun will be slightly different, even between same models. That is why you use a full length resizing die if reloading for different rifles of the same caliber. However, that does wear out the brass slightly faster. Neck sizing only saves the brass from wear and tear, and aids in the accuracy, somewhat.

Ok, so it only forms the neck. Leaving the fire formed part of the casing alone?

Isn't that clever....



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[rsayloriii]

Ok, so it only forms the neck. Leaving the fire formed part of the casing alone?

Isn't that clever....



"Sent from a iBong6"

Correct.

 

[grasshopperglock]

Correct.

There not the thing to use in anything auto loading? Right? Bolts only?


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[rsayloriii]

There not the thing to use in anything auto loading? Right? Bolts only?


"Sent from a iBong6"

Generally, correct. You might get away with it in a semi, but for reliability, I'd full length size.

 

[grasshopperglock]

I have question myself.

How do you work up a certain load up for a gun? Say handgun.

Do you just start with so many grains of powder. Picking a load out the manaul?

Shoot, measure group. Add or subtract powder? See if it opens up or tightens?

Im lost here.




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[rsayloriii]

I have question myself.

How do you work a load up for a gun? Do you just start with so many grains of powder. Picking one out the manaul?

Shoot, measure group. Add or subtract powder? See if it opens up or tightens?

Im lost here.




"Sent from a iBong6"

In the most basic sense, yes. The Lyman manual has a "recommended" load which, in their testing, was the most accurate. The manual will you give you a range of certain powders which have been deemed "safe". Start with the minimum spec and work your way up by tenths of a grain until you get your most accurate load. I generally just go middle ground of what the chart says as I'm mostly in it for the plinking, not the high accuracy. Besides, I'm not THAT great of a shot to honestly tell the difference. The things you have to worry about are squibs (bullet stuck in the chamber from too little powder) and over pressure (primers start popping out) that can lead to blowing the gun up.