New to reloading

[gringogigante]

I was also thinking about getting one of the Classic Lee loader kits since they're an inexpensive beginning, but seem to contain all the necessary tools.

Excellent choice on a first loader. Don't get one with a turret that basically makes one bullet with each pull of the lever....at least to start out with. I bought a big fancy turret press and (with no experience in reloading at that point) could NOT get the thing calibrated and running. I then went and bought a Classic Lee Loader Kit for like $100 and had the time of my life. It's really fun. And it allows one to start by learning the basics and then getting a newer, fancier press later if they want.

Have fun, buddy. it's a real blast making your own ammo. Also, stock up now on reloading supplies. Once the election hits, things will get crazy and if Obama is elected there will be a run on all things guns related.

Not trying to get political. Just speaaking as an instructor, CHL instructor, and reloader.

Chris

 

[ROGER4314]

I looked and still have my Lee hand priming tool. My gosh, that stuff is 46 years old and still works like it was new!


Once the election hits, things will get crazy and if Obama is elected there will be a run on all things guns related.

I'm afraid it's already in full swing. I checked out several places where I've purchased primers on the 'Net. ALL non magnum pistols primers of any brand are sold out.


Flash

 

[andrew678122]

I probably should get one of those hand primer tools, it would save me messing around trying to find the solution to the problem I'm having with primers. But then again, sometimes the problem solving is as much fun as the doing...

 

[10mm and 45]

PM sent

 

[andrew678122]

I finally made it to the Ft Bliss Rod and Gun Club (El Paso TX) shooting range. I got out there not long after they opened, hoping I was going to be alone. But no matter how early I get there there's always someone already there and more people not far behind me. At the range I like to take my time, shoot a group of 3 and then walk down to the target thinking about what I did wrong and what I need to do to correct it, closely examine the group and walk back, still thinking. I find the time between groups and thinking about squeezing the trigger (and everything else) is more important than squeezing the trigger. When there are other people there I can't do that.

But anyway, I shot off 39 of my reloads (I saved the very first one I reloaded). I had one failure to fire. I looked closely at it and the only possible problem I could see was that the primer didn't appear to be seated all the way in the primer pocket. I manually loaded it into my rifle and it fired correctly. The primers I am using are some old ones that someone was selling at the El Paso gun show, could they be too old? Expired or whatever? While I was at the Ft Bliss gun club I bought a new batch of primers. The other 38 rounds all seemed to work great, They even seemed to feed better than the original Winchester Super X rounds. I was very pleased with the results.

I have also been working on a new scope mount (home made, about 4-5 hours of filing to a 'blank' picatinny rail) so the scope required a lot of attention. I was pleased that the only real adjustment I had to do was elevation. This did distract from me paying full attention to my reloading though.

I was able to shoot 1.3 to 2.5 inch groups at 50 yards. I am sure that I will be able to improve on that, just need more time...

 

[RobertP]

Good deal. Always good to hear a new reloader shooting their loads without major issues.

 

[andrew678122]

Good deal. Always good to hear a new reloader shooting their loads without major issues.

Thank you. I can see how people can get hooked on reloading, and it's not just the money (though ~$8 for a box of twenty is a pretty good reason (and that's buying Hornady LeveRevolution bullets!)). It was enjoyable shooting at the range know that every cartridge was one that I put together.

 

[RobertP]

I get hooked about every 6 months or so....then I slack off when I sweat more than shoot and pick it up again before deer season.

 

[andrew678122]

I completed my second batch of reloads, 40 rounds of .30-30 using 30.2gr of IMR4895 and 160gr Hornady LeveRevolution bullets. I was much more careful and precise loading these rounds. I cleaned the primer pockets using the Lee tool and made sure the pockets were chamfered. Then I used the Lee case-sizing tool and trimmed any over-spec cases and chamfered the case mouth, inside and out. When I was priming the 40 rounds, I had one primer go off as I was seating it (that's much better than the first time). I also got one of the Lee powder funnels, no more spilt powder! I used the business card method to level the powder dipper, being careful not to tap it and settle the powder. I then seated all the bullets to the same depth and crimped the cases, lightly and evenly.

At this point I've loaded 100 rounds total and enjoyed every minute of it. I've got enough powder and primers for another 100 rounds, just need the bullets. I know they're expensive, but I'll probably go with the Hornady LeveRevolution FTX 160gr, I'll get some more experience under my belt before trying anything else.

My plan is to go to the range tomorrow and see how my latest reloads do.

 

[skinman]

Excellent choice on a first loader. Don't get one with a turret that basically makes one bullet with each pull of the lever....at least to start out with. I bought a big fancy turret press and (with no experience in reloading at that point) could NOT get the thing calibrated and running. I then went and bought a Classic Lee Loader Kit for like $100 and had the time of my life. It's really fun. And it allows one to start by learning the basics and then getting a newer, fancier press later if they want.

Have fun, buddy. it's a real blast making your own ammo. Also, stock up now on reloading supplies. Once the election hits, things will get crazy and if Obama is elected there will be a run on all things guns related.

Not trying to get political. Just speaaking as an instructor, CHL instructor, and reloader.

Chris

I am speaking political...this is a blatant marketing scam put out by some gun dealers...they're just whipping up the same bullshit fear that they did 4 years ago to sell guns and ammo. A few months back, my local gd told me that by August, you would not be able to find an AR on the shelf but I see them everywhere...even Colts are in stock. I mentioned this to him the other day and he said, "...wait until October." I really hope they get stuck with a huge over inventory and have to sell low to move them...serves them right for trying to pull another bullshit stunt like this...and if you believe this is really going to happen like they are claiming, then remember...Fool me once, shame on YOU, fool me TWICE, shame on ME!

 

[andrew678122]

Well, I made it to the range and tried out my latest reloads. They weren't very impressive, in fact they were all over the place. The best I could do was about 3 inch group at 50 yards, the worst was really worse.

I also brought some Rem Core-Lokt SP 150 gr factory loads with me and shot this at 50 yards:

so I know the rifle and I are capable of it.

One thing I've noticed about my reloads is that they seem under-powered. Even though the Rem factory loads are 150gr they kick more than my 160gr reloads and have a louder report. There is no evidence of keyholing, but the Hornady bullet gets seated pretty far in the cartridge in order to crimp the case into the cannellure. Measuring the distance from the bullet to the rifling tells me that the bullet is about .100" too far in. Could that cause what I'm seeing?

I'm using IMR-4895 30.2 gr behind Hornady FTX 160 gr.

Any suggestions would be appreciatted...

 

[Whiskey_Rocka_Rolla]

I have a quick question and didn't wanna start a new thread for it..cause it's really specific...but I'm about to pull a few rounds that I messed up last time (and the only time) I reloaded. Then I'm gonna spend the next few days (the only "vacation" I get all year) patiently learning how to reload properly. Already run into a "what if".

Ok so the primers in the rounds are unused, but some of the casings are mis shapen, so they'll needa be resized. I'm wondering if it would be a possible hazard to run a casing with a live primer into the resizing/decapping die. Will the decapping pin pose a hazard to the live primer? Or by pushing it down into the tube (Lee Classic Turret)? Just want to be sure before I resize/decap these casings.

Actually the mis shapen part is close to the case mouth, so I doubt I'd need to run it all the way down anyway, but I'm just wondering if maybe I should toss these casings and chalk it up as a loss (of casings and primers).

If none of this is a hazard, and I can resize/decap a casing with a live primer, should the primer be re-usable? Or should I toss it? Thanks for the help.

 

[Pilgrim]

I do most of my reading about that kinda stuff online nowadays, but I have heard of some good books that I will get. I have no intention of buying something I don't need, I can't afford it anyway, I plan to start out with as little as possible and build up as I need to.

Be careful about what you read on the internet. I've found that a lot of the loadings I've seen often fall way out of manufacturer specs. A lot of homegrown loads that I wouldn't recommend if you're just starting out. Your best bet is to buy a reloading book from some of the best manufacturers out there and try to start 10% below max load then work your way up. It was a pretty scary time when I first got into it but it gets better as you gain more confidence.

BTW, one reloading book is good, two is better, more is mo' better!

 

[Deavis]

I manually loaded it into my rifle and it fired correctly

Most likely you didn't seat the primer deep enough. First time the firing pin seats it and the second time you hit it, it goes off. Use your calipers to get a feel for how deep you seat your primers, you are looking to be 0.003-0.005" beneath the case head. Depending on the brass and primer type, seating will vary, it is something that you learn. For instance a CCI primer into a winchester pistol casing will seat about 0.0015" while the same primer will seat 0.007" into a Speer casing with exactly the same setting on a priming machine. Use your calipers, adjust your force, and you'll get them into that zone in no time.

Measuring the distance from the bullet to the rifling tells me that the bullet is about .100" too far in

I'm not sure why you are measuring that when you are referring to underpowered loads. The fact that the bullet is "too far" in would actually raise the pressure of your load and conversely seating it out towards the rifling would reduce it. You can easily step up your load by increasing charge (if you aren't at maximum, maybe I missed a post) or by switching powders, there are plenty that will outperform IMR4895. Lever, CFE223, Varget, 748, and H335 are just a few that you could use instead.

You don't have to seat into the cannelure if you don't want to but for crimping, it is the best option.

Free data is available at almost every powder manufacturer, just go look: Cartridge Loads - Hodgdon Reloading Data Center - data.hodgdon.com

 

[Deavis]

Ok so the primers in the rounds are unused, but some of the casings are mis shapen, so they'll needa be resized. I'm wondering if it would be a possible hazard to run a casing with a live primer into the resizing/decapping die.

Take out your decapping pin and resize the brass as much as you want. If you don't want the primers anymore, keep your decapping pin in there and put on some saftey glasses. It's rare, but they do go off.

 

[andrew678122]

Most likely you didn't seat the primer deep enough. First time the firing pin seats it and the second time you hit it, it goes off. Use your calipers to get a feel for how deep you seat your primers, you are looking to be 0.003-0.005" beneath the case head. Depending on the brass and primer type, seating will vary, it is something that you learn. For instance a CCI primer into a winchester pistol casing will seat about 0.0015" while the same primer will seat 0.007" into a Speer casing with exactly the same setting on a priming machine. Use your calipers, adjust your force, and you'll get them into that zone in no time.

I have solved my primer problems, I'm now able to seat them correctly. Thanks for the input...

I'm not sure why you are measuring that when you are referring to underpowered loads. The fact that the bullet is "too far" in would actually raise the pressure of your load and conversely seating it out towards the rifling would reduce it. You can easily step up your load by increasing charge (if you aren't at maximum, maybe I missed a post) or by switching powders, there are plenty that will outperform IMR4895. Lever, CFE223, Varget, 748, and H335 are just a few that you could use instead.

You don't have to seat into the cannelure if you don't want to but for crimping, it is the best option.

Free data is available at almost every powder manufacturer, just go look: Cartridge Loads - Hodgdon Reloading Data Center - data.hodgdon.com

I'm new to reloading and consequently don't know what's important or what's not. I read something in ABCs and I checked on my reloads and it seems wrong (according to ABCs) so I was trying to find out if it was important. There are so many variables to juggle that I just don't know what to do, other than eliminate what variables I can, namely bullet and powder. To that end I have decided to use one bullet (Speer #2011) and one powder (Hodgdon H4895) and am going to stick with that 'til I get it working right, after that I will branch out into other powders and/or other bullets.

I'm always interested in hearing recommendations by people more experienced than me and I will take them all into consideration, even if I continue on the path I've already chosen. It all goes into my head and in the future will be considered for my next reloading recipe. Don't stop making suggestions, that's one of the ways I learn.

 

[andrew678122]

Latest episode:

I went to the range this morning, shooting 4 recipes of reloads, all bullets are Speer #2011 150gr FP:
The propellant was 31gr, 32gr, 33gr and 34gr of H4895:


The load with 32gr gave the best overall group but if I discount the one flyer in the group with 33grs it did even better. The group with 34grs seems all over the place. So, what I'm going to do is load up 10 rounds each of 32gr and 33gr and determine which performs best. Then I will vary the winner by .5gr and see if I can tweak it a little closer.