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  • Dawico

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    15   0   0
    Oct 15, 2009
    38,086
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    Lampasas, Texas
    Pfffft. This is how you test a truck.
    961ada61a23412def34c44e1b848e724.jpg



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    Wind resistance definitely trumps weight when it's that tall.

    18k total or just the trailer? Guessing total since it's two axles.

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    Dawico

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    I bet that load of wood weighs more


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    If he's legal (17.8k) then yes, the lumber was heavier.

    I weighed at a truck stop. 18k on the trailer axles and 32.7k total (bunch of boxes of nails in the bed of the truck).

    Didn't pull like it was that heavy. Stopped like it though.

    My 9' tall by 8'6 wide work trailer pulls much heavier than it's 10k weight though. Like pulling a parachute.

    Never pulled anything like that 5th wheel. I know they're tough on fuel gauges though.

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    pronstar

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    Jul 2, 2017
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    Dallas
    I had a 23-foot toy hauler that weighed 10,500 when it was all loaded up. Was double axles.

    Replaced it with a 42-foot fifth-wheel toy hauler that weighed 18.5k all loaded up. Had triple axles and an air ride pin.

    The big Fiver towed way better


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    pronstar

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    Jul 2, 2017
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    Looks like I’ve got a torque converter in my future…

    GM’s latest 6L80 is a good transmission that they paired with a garbage torque converter because reasons.

    I’ve spoken to many shops (including a local one that I trust), emailed several more, spoken to some folks on forums, and the consensus is unanimous: replace the torque converter before it takes out the rest of the tranny.

    Most shops actually reco replacement at around 100k even if no apparent issues, because it’s only a matter of time.

    Sucks because Mrs Pronstar’s Suburban has the same tranny and similar mileage.


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    Brains

    One of the idiots
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    Apr 9, 2013
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    You can likely solve the problem before failure, and eliminate the shudder without having to change any parts. Find a tuner shop and have them program out the allowed lockup clutch slip. To test the clutch itself, I think the procedure is put the trans in manual mode, 7th gear and let it lock up.

    It will be a bit more 'clunky' with the tune for lack of a better term, because when it goes into lockup it'll just apply and hold. They let it slip a little bit to keep NVH down.
     

    pronstar

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    Jul 2, 2017
    10,576
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    Dallas
    You can likely solve the problem before failure, and eliminate the shudder without having to change any parts. Find a tuner shop and have them program out the allowed lockup clutch slip. To test the clutch itself, I think the procedure is put the trans in manual mode, 7th gear and let it lock up.

    It will be a bit more 'clunky' with the tune for lack of a better term, because when it goes into lockup it'll just apply and hold. They let it slip a little bit to keep NVH down.

    6L80 not the 8-speed

    Yeah I don’t have the shudder at all.
    But I’ve had two occurrences of bad shift flare.

    Was creeping at a slow pace, put my foot into it and engine immediately started bouncing off the rev limiter, but truck didn’t move.

    Had to lift the throttle to get it to select a gear.
    Then it runs pretty normally.

    No glitter in the fluid, it’s serviced regularly and still smells new.

    I’ve got HP tuners and will be revising the lockup schedule once I put a new converter in


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    Brains

    One of the idiots
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    Apr 9, 2013
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    Oh shoot, totally brain farted that one, totally different trans lol.

    Circle D here in Houston makes badass converters if you're wanting an upgrade.
     

    pronstar

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    Jul 2, 2017
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    Dallas
    Oh shoot, totally brain farted that one, totally different trans lol.

    Circle D here in Houston makes badass converters if you're wanting an upgrade.

    Yeah I need to dig a little deeper and see what “heavy duty” torque converter the shop uses.

    I’m sort of a brand snob and will upgrade to a known quantity if I have to.

    Circle D is very proud of theirs, but might be overkill for my needs.

    And I need to determine if a single or dual disc unit is best for me.

    I think I’ll go with the factory stall speed, seems like a good match for my use.


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    mongoose

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    Sep 10, 2012
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    nm
    Yeah I need to dig a little deeper and see what “heavy duty” torque converter the shop uses.

    I’m sort of a brand snob and will upgrade to a known quantity if I have to.

    Circle D is very proud of theirs, but might be overkill for my needs.

    And I need to determine if a single or dual disc unit is best for me.

    I think I’ll go with the factory stall speed, seems like a good match for my use.


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    Suncoast converters.
     

    Brains

    One of the idiots
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    3   0   0
    Apr 9, 2013
    6,923
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    Spring
    Yeah I need to dig a little deeper and see what “heavy duty” torque converter the shop uses.

    I’m sort of a brand snob and will upgrade to a known quantity if I have to.

    Circle D is very proud of theirs, but might be overkill for my needs.

    And I need to determine if a single or dual disc unit is best for me.

    I think I’ll go with the factory stall speed, seems like a good match for my use.
    Yeah don't bump up the stall speed if you ever plan on towing, unless you're sure you have plenty of cooler capacity.

    The biggest thing the aftermarket converter guys are doing to improve durability is swapping the factory stamped cover for a billet cover and brazing all the fins instead of just folding them over and tack welding them. The guts inside are basically mixed and matched from OEM products, usually amounting to mixing stators and pumps to get the stall speed and torque multiplication they want.

    I've used Precision Industries converters in the past too, they worked and help up great.
     
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