That sent me down a research rabbit hole. Interesting. Looks like Smith & Wesson mismarked a bunch of 681s as 68-1.
The original Model 68 was a 6" K frame chambered in .38 for the CHP to handle .38 Special +P+.
Decided I “need” a revolver. First thought was to get a Taurus or something inexpensive (came close to ordering a Taurus .44 magnum off grabagun) but I really want a S&W or Ruger. Trying to study up on different models, but the Smith and Wesson .357’s have me going in circles! There’s the model 19, the 60, and the 686! There are K frames and L frames! This may take some book learnin’ before I figure out what to get.
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Make that a 686 Plus. You get an extra round for free.My vote would be for a 686.
Dude. Come to one of our meets when the lockdown stops. You will be overwhelmed. For myself, I prefer the S&W's for their refinement. But if I had to absolutely rely on one, if take my GP100. They're built like tanks.
You've gotten some good advice but I'll add a bit more. I'm a Smith fan but you can't go wrong with either S&W or Ruger. I do like shooting the GP100s as well, especially in 10mm.
Smith & Wesson revolvers have a letter system for their frame sizes.
J frames are the small ones, usually snubnoses and generally 5 shots in .38 or .357. They're made more for carry than extended shooting.
K frames are, as said, the next size up and were made for carrying more than shooting but will do fine with a diet of mostly .38 Special. It seems their issues with forcing cones cracking are mainly with the lighter .357 loads like 125 gr. From my reading, it doesn't seem quite as pronounced with the 158 gr .357 loads. A modern production K-frame such as a new Model 19 shouldn't have this problem.
The L frames are the 586/686 and a bit larger. They were introduced to address the K frame issues. A good revolver for shooting and still carrying if needed. The 686 is a joy to shoot. The 986 chambered in 9mm is a blast but pretty expensive. You can also get the 686+ which holds 7 rounds of .38/.357.
If you want a hard hitter, you can get an L frame Model 69 Combat Magnum in .44 Magnum.
The N frames are the big ones. Model 27/28 in .357, Model 29 in .44 Magnum. Model 625 is in .45 ACP and fed with moonclips. The Model 610 is 10mm also fed by moonclicps.
Model numbers that start with a 6 are stainless steel. Without, they're blued. So a 586 is a blued L frame .357 while a 686 is a stainless L frame .357.
A Model 29 is a blued .44 Magnum N frame while a 629 is a stainless steel .44 Manum N frame.
I would try as many as you can. If you were to pick just one, it's hard to go wrong with a 686.
I was lucky enough to get a Smith and Wesson Model 29 today. Go big or go home!! Gonna be at the range when they open in the morning.
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It’s a 29-2 (3T) 8 5/8” barrel. Just got home from the range. Smiling like a Cheshire Cat!!! What a cannon! I was wondering about the target trigger it has. Are they meant to shoot more double action? I started shooting single action, and I’m guessing the pull was less than a pound! Touchy as hell! For sone reason it’s not letting me post a pic. I’ll try again later.
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I've heard the 500 Smith is just a punisher and not pleasant to shoot.You left out the last one. Those hand cannons they forgot the wheels for. 460 and 500 Smith versions. I believe they are X frame.