Glock 19.....S&W 19......coincidence, I think not.
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Revolver rabbit hole!
- Thread starter CodyK
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Texasjack
TGT Addict
S&W came up with the K-frame pistols, starting with the Model 19, so that cops could have a light weight .357 to carry. They don't hold up to lots of shooting with the magnums, but do great with .38 specials. Great trigger and extremely fun to shoot. I bought a used one and just put some new grips on it. I love shooting it.
Ruger's GP-100 is a tough pistol that also has a great trigger. I don't know anyone who bought a GP-100 and didn't fall in love with it. I know that it took one shot from mine to put a permanent smile on my face.
It's nice to have .357 mag power available, if you need it, but for me .38 Special is far, far more fun at the range. With either the S&W or Ruger, you can shoot all day and enjoy every shot. Somewhere around half a box of .357, your hand begins to sting and it's just not as enjoyable as you might like it to be.
Taurus pistols use old S&W designs (under license), so they're not bad, but if you ever have a problem, you will find yourself very alone. Taurus quality control is not the best and support is among the worst. My suggestion is not to waste your time with Taurus. Pay the extra few bucks for the Ruger or S&W and you will never regret it. I should mention that Colt (obviously) makes some much-loved revolvers, but I don't have a Colt in .357, so I can't make a recommendation. I've heard some talk that people are having trouble with their latest "snake" pistols, but it's hard to tell how much of that is real and how much is just internet negativity.
I'll bet that 95% of the pistols sold these days are semiautos, and I can understand why. Lightweight, dependable, accurate, and they put a lot of lead downrange quickly. But the wheel guns are still around because they are still reliable, accurate, and super fun to shoot. Buy one and enjoy the fun.
Ruger's GP-100 is a tough pistol that also has a great trigger. I don't know anyone who bought a GP-100 and didn't fall in love with it. I know that it took one shot from mine to put a permanent smile on my face.
It's nice to have .357 mag power available, if you need it, but for me .38 Special is far, far more fun at the range. With either the S&W or Ruger, you can shoot all day and enjoy every shot. Somewhere around half a box of .357, your hand begins to sting and it's just not as enjoyable as you might like it to be.
Taurus pistols use old S&W designs (under license), so they're not bad, but if you ever have a problem, you will find yourself very alone. Taurus quality control is not the best and support is among the worst. My suggestion is not to waste your time with Taurus. Pay the extra few bucks for the Ruger or S&W and you will never regret it. I should mention that Colt (obviously) makes some much-loved revolvers, but I don't have a Colt in .357, so I can't make a recommendation. I've heard some talk that people are having trouble with their latest "snake" pistols, but it's hard to tell how much of that is real and how much is just internet negativity.
I'll bet that 95% of the pistols sold these days are semiautos, and I can understand why. Lightweight, dependable, accurate, and they put a lot of lead downrange quickly. But the wheel guns are still around because they are still reliable, accurate, and super fun to shoot. Buy one and enjoy the fun.
Texas jack is right on the money.
The SW M19/66 is known to split the barrel with heavy use of full power .357.
You couldn’t go wrong with a M27 or 28.
The Ruger is a tank. Solid as a rock.
Avoid Taurus.
The SW M19/66 is known to split the barrel with heavy use of full power .357.
You couldn’t go wrong with a M27 or 28.
The Ruger is a tank. Solid as a rock.
Avoid Taurus.
Maverick44
Youngest old man on TGT.
If you plan on shooting more than a handful of magnums, skip the K frame and go for the L frame. The model 19 is a great gun to carry, but it was not meant to shoot a ton of magnum rounds in.
If you want a really nice shooting 357 mag that you'll never wear out, get an N frame like the Model 27 or 28. The forcing cone on those is absolutely massive. The size and weight of the gun also makes it very pleasant to shoot full house 357 mag rounds in. 38 special feels like a .22 in it.
I'm a S&W fan. Ruger makes a good, durable gun, but they're not a S&W. Taurus is, well a Taurus. Some love them, some hate them. I've had enough trouble with Taurus models over the years that I don't have much interest in them anymore. I don't hate them, I just don't care for them too much.
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If you want a really nice shooting 357 mag that you'll never wear out, get an N frame like the Model 27 or 28. The forcing cone on those is absolutely massive. The size and weight of the gun also makes it very pleasant to shoot full house 357 mag rounds in. 38 special feels like a .22 in it.
I'm a S&W fan. Ruger makes a good, durable gun, but they're not a S&W. Taurus is, well a Taurus. Some love them, some hate them. I've had enough trouble with Taurus models over the years that I don't have much interest in them anymore. I don't hate them, I just don't care for them too much.
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Taurus just has too many serious negative reports to trust.
Member Tiberious right here on TGT had a Taurus .357 revo fail on him.
My own experience with them was negative.
I’d caution you away from them.
Good S&Ws, Colts, Rugers , even Dan Wesson’s are easily available.
Member Tiberious right here on TGT had a Taurus .357 revo fail on him.
My own experience with them was negative.
I’d caution you away from them.
Good S&Ws, Colts, Rugers , even Dan Wesson’s are easily available.
- Oct 7, 2015
- 3,702
- 96
I've had 2 taurus revolvers that ran fine (605 and 85). I bought them when I was just getting into buying my own guns. I definately wouldnt get one now. A new taurus isnt that much cheaper than a use s&w or ruger. I've had several family members and close friends decide they wanted their 1st firearm and wanted to get a Taurus due to costs. I usually end up helping them find a used s&w or ruger or just give them difference to get a new one. I wouldnt feel right letting someone get a taurus as their 1st and only firearm.
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TheMailMan
TGT Addict
If I wanted a 44 mag I'd start checking the sale section of the forum. A little birdie told me there will soon be S&W 29 and a Ruger Blackhawk posted.
How soon is soon? I believe a few of us have been waiting on the list for about 3 days.
- Dec 18, 2015
- 1,277
- 96
For pure relaxed fun, it’s pretty hard to beat a Ruger Super Blackhawk .44 magnum. Shooting .44 specials through it is like squeezing off mouse farts.
A SW model 29 would be real sweet! Thanks for all the help from everyone. Definitely gonna go with a Ruger or S&W.
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TheMailMan
TGT Addict
It will go up today. I'm still waiting on calls from a couple of people that are friends of the family. Not my family, the Veteran's family. They received my contact info no later than Monday, could have been Saturday.
I'm going to give a heads up to the wife of the Veteran and then post later today.
OlongJohnson
New Member
- Mar 8, 2015
- 8
- 1
Pick up a Ruger GP100 Match Champion with your choice of fixed Novaks or adjustable Ruger sights, and don't look back. It's the default easy answer for, "What revolver should I buy?"
I've had to send multiple Rugers and multiple S&Ws back to the factory for warranty. The Rugers come back fixed. The S&Ws don't. Taurus makes you pay the shipping if you have to send it back to them, which will be ~$80 for a handgun to have them look at it for "free" warranty service.
I've had to send multiple Rugers and multiple S&Ws back to the factory for warranty. The Rugers come back fixed. The S&Ws don't. Taurus makes you pay the shipping if you have to send it back to them, which will be ~$80 for a handgun to have them look at it for "free" warranty service.
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You've gotten some good advice but I'll add a bit more. I'm a Smith fan but you can't go wrong with either S&W or Ruger. I do like shooting the GP100s as well, especially in 10mm.
Smith & Wesson revolvers have a letter system for their frame sizes.
J frames are the small ones, usually snubnoses and generally 5 shots in .38 or .357. They're made more for carry than extended shooting.
K frames are, as said, the next size up and were made for carrying more than shooting but will do fine with a diet of mostly .38 Special. It seems their issues with forcing cones cracking are mainly with the lighter .357 loads like 125 gr. From my reading, it doesn't seem quite as pronounced with the 158 gr .357 loads. A modern production K-frame such as a new Model 19 shouldn't have this problem.
The L frames are the 586/686 and a bit larger. They were introduced to address the K frame issues. A good revolver for shooting and still carrying if needed. The 686 is a joy to shoot. The 986 chambered in 9mm is a blast but pretty expensive. You can also get the 686+ which holds 7 rounds of .38/.357.
If you want a hard hitter, you can get an L frame Model 69 Combat Magnum in .44 Magnum.
The N frames are the big ones. Model 27/28 in .357, Model 29 in .44 Magnum. Model 625 is in .45 ACP and fed with moonclips. The Model 610 is 10mm also fed by moonclicps.
Model numbers that start with a 6 are stainless steel. Without, they're blued. So a 586 is a blued L frame .357 while a 686 is a stainless L frame .357.
A Model 29 is a blued .44 Magnum N frame while a 629 is a stainless steel .44 Manum N frame.
I would try as many as you can. If you were to pick just one, it's hard to go wrong with a 686.
Smith & Wesson revolvers have a letter system for their frame sizes.
J frames are the small ones, usually snubnoses and generally 5 shots in .38 or .357. They're made more for carry than extended shooting.
K frames are, as said, the next size up and were made for carrying more than shooting but will do fine with a diet of mostly .38 Special. It seems their issues with forcing cones cracking are mainly with the lighter .357 loads like 125 gr. From my reading, it doesn't seem quite as pronounced with the 158 gr .357 loads. A modern production K-frame such as a new Model 19 shouldn't have this problem.
The L frames are the 586/686 and a bit larger. They were introduced to address the K frame issues. A good revolver for shooting and still carrying if needed. The 686 is a joy to shoot. The 986 chambered in 9mm is a blast but pretty expensive. You can also get the 686+ which holds 7 rounds of .38/.357.
If you want a hard hitter, you can get an L frame Model 69 Combat Magnum in .44 Magnum.
The N frames are the big ones. Model 27/28 in .357, Model 29 in .44 Magnum. Model 625 is in .45 ACP and fed with moonclips. The Model 610 is 10mm also fed by moonclicps.
Model numbers that start with a 6 are stainless steel. Without, they're blued. So a 586 is a blued L frame .357 while a 686 is a stainless L frame .357.
A Model 29 is a blued .44 Magnum N frame while a 629 is a stainless steel .44 Manum N frame.
I would try as many as you can. If you were to pick just one, it's hard to go wrong with a 686.
FYI - The range where you and I met has never stopped doing LTC classes.
