Car stops ~ but it NO GO

[Glockster69]

That's what I asked and he (writer) said no. He went on to say he wasn't exactly sure how the process went. Doh....

Just got a price from an independent. Started at @ $750 but when we discussed details he was short 2.5hrs compared to dealer and ended up @ $900.
He replaced a clutch in the Si soon after I got it.

 

[alexrex20]

A leakdown test is a compression check plus one extra step: see how much pressure leaks over a given amount of time. You'll have to Google to see what the acceptable limits are.

 

[scap99]

Both are available to rent at places like Vatozone.

 

[M. Sage]

Alright, I did some digging and asked some questions for you. First thing to do is take the valve cover off and make sure that the bolt that goes through the center of each cam sprocket isn't broken. I doubt it is, but that's step one. Step two, pull the plugs, look for silver marks in the piston tops. I'm at the point where I doubt they're there.

After, it's just "fix the bitch".

The nearest dealership said a leak down check could determine if the valves are damaged.
Yes/no? Is that something I can do?

$960 for chain, tensioner & gaskets
$300 of that is for parts

Skip the leak down test. Waste of time and money. Just get a small light like a Stylus Pro and look for silver crescents on top of the pistons.

The pistons are aluminum and have a thin layer of carbon on them. The steel valves sit at an angle, so the edges bite in when they get hit, gouging the piston tops.

Yes the leakdown test is basically the same as a compression check.

No, it's only similar in what part of the engine you test and that you're doing it through a hose screwed into a spark plug hole. They're very different.

That's what I asked and he (writer) said no. He went on to say he wasn't exactly sure how the process went. Doh....

Just got a price from an independent. Started at @ $750 but when we discussed details he was short 2.5hrs compared to dealer and ended up @ $900.
He replaced a clutch in the Si soon after I got it.

$900 is steep. IMO $750 sounds right. Book says labor time is 4 hours, assuming $100/hour shop rate, plus about $350 in parts, which was my guess at the parts cost.

A leakdown test is a compression check plus one extra step: see how much pressure leaks over a given amount of time. You'll have to Google to see what the acceptable limits are.

Errr, no. Leakdown gives you instant results. It's a flow rate measurement. And the test procedures are very different once you get past "remove spark plug, screw in tester hose."

 

[Glockster69]

Been distracted by other family matters this weekend, hope to get under the hood soon.

Sage: dealer said the job was 6hrs. And yes, both shops mentioned $100/hr labor.

Been trying to find out how at honda-tech forum but wasn't successful. How do I manually rotate the engine?

 

[robertc1216]

How do I manually rotate the engine?

Normally crankshaft bolt if you have room. Pull all the spark plugs for this.

 

[stdreb27]

I didn't read this whole thread, BUT you sure your alternator isn't dead?
Or battery my SI wouldn't run with a dead battery. Even jumped. It would start run then die. I thought it was fuel issue. But decided to check the electrical first. And sure nuff it wasn't all those other issues. C

 

[Glockster69]

You did miss a lot C, it is turning over but thanks.

Alright, I did some digging and asked some questions for you. First thing to do is take the valve cover off and make sure that the bolt that goes through the center of each cam sprocket isn't broken. I doubt it is, but that's step one. Step two, pull the plugs, look for silver marks in the piston tops. I'm at the point where I doubt they're there.

After, it's just "fix the bitch".

Skip the leak down test. Waste of time and money. Just get a small light like a Stylus Pro and look for silver crescents on top of the pistons.

The pistons are aluminum and have a thin layer of carbon on them. The steel valves sit at an angle, so the edges bite in when they get hit, gouging the piston tops.

snip.......

$900 is steep. IMO $750 sounds right. Book says labor time is 4 hours, assuming $100/hour shop rate, plus about $350 in parts, which was my guess at the parts cost.

snip.......

OK, valve cover off, sprocket bolts appear intact, normal, and all rotating with crankshaft. When hand rotating the engine I did notice a quick pop of slack in the chain occassionaly when everything was unloaded. Hope that makes sense.

I can't see any scuffing of carbon on any of the pistons BUT, I can only see the very center of each one and just slightly more than the diameter of the plug threads. Mainly because there is an @ 4" long extension tube pressed into the valve body that holds the coil for each plug. Also no evidence of any misc. metal pieces (shavings) visible in any bore.

Turned the engine over by hand many times and the sprockets do not align. When the arrow on the fore sprocket is pointing to the center of the aft sprocket, the alignment notch on the aft sprocket is almost straight up. In other words roughly 90^ out of alignment.

I'm not sure which is the #1 cylinder and how to find TDC.

 

[alexrex20]

Sounds like dead tensioner and jumped chain.

 

[alexrex20]

#1 cylinder is the one closest to the timing chain. TDC is top dead center. Just like it sounds, it's when the cylinder is at the top of the stroke. You can just do it by eye and look down the spark plug hole to see when it reaches TDC but remember it will hit TDC twice in a single cycle.

 

[Acera]

Let me know if you want a 4 door replacement. Got my mom's car for sale in the classifieds. Will do a good deal for you.

 

[Glockster69]

Let me know if you want a 4 door replacement. Got my mom's car for sale in the classifieds. Will do a good deal for you.

Thanks anywho, Dawico has got a free roller with all the parts I need

Would it make you feel any better to hear that I have a car just like that broke down in front of my house? Niece's friend needs to move his junk. Come get it, take the parts you need, and sell the rest. I didn't see anything............

 

[Glockster69]

#1 cylinder is the one closest to the timing chain.

Thanks

TDC is top dead center. Just like it sounds, it's when the cylinder is at the top of the stroke. You can just do it by eye and look down the spark plug hole to see when it reaches TDC but remember it will hit TDC twice in a single cycle.

I know what TDC means LOL, I just don't know if I'm on the intake or exhaust stroke. I guess it really doesn't matter since I've rotated the engine more than enough times to determine the cams are not aligned.

At this point my biggest concern is being able to see such a small amount of the piston crown and not knowing for sure if any have been damaged. A fiber optic camera sure would be handy about now

 

[orbitup]

How many miles do you have on this thing?

 

[Dawico]

Thanks

I know what TDC means LOL, I just don't know if I'm on the intake or exhaust stroke. I guess it really doesn't matter since I've rotated the engine more than enough times to determine the cams are not aligned.

At this point my biggest concern is being able to see such a small amount of the piston crown and not knowing for sure if any have been damaged. A fiber optic camera sure would be handy about now

I would think you would feel a rough/ tight spot when turning the engine if there was some valve interference or damage.

 

[Dawico]

Thanks anywho, Dawico has got a free roller with all the parts I need

Better hurry. They are supposed to get it tomorrow. But you know how that goes.........

 

[alexrex20]

I just don't know if I'm on the intake or exhaust stroke. I guess it really doesn't matter since I've rotated the engine more than enough times to determine the cams are not aligned.

Well you have the valve cover off. Look at the valves, see which ones are open and which are closed.

 

[Glockster69]

Better hurry. They are supposed to get it tomorrow. But you know how that goes.........

Ha! I ain't fit'ina come to u house in the middle of the night. You gotz bang toys.

 

[alexrex20]

I would think you would feel a rough/ tight spot when turning the engine if there was some valve interference or damage.

Not necessarily. The damage may have already been done by turning it over with the starter. It may have already bent the valves enough that there would be no binding when turning it by hand, until the cam skips another tooth and is further misaligned.

 

[Glockster69]

I would think you would feel a rough/ tight spot when turning the engine if there was some valve interference or damage.

I was using about a 20" long breaker/socket drive to turn it over. I felt resistance more at sometimes than others but the overall feel of the stroke was smooth. It was quiet outside also and I didn't hear ANY sounds that would indicate a problem.