My AR Build

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  • itchin

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    Jul 15, 2011
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    Corpus Christi, Texas
    Great man. I bet you could do another and it will be easier. Once you figure out what works for you it will be an easy deal. I use a jewlers hammer to start my pins then finish them off with a punch. I think the hardest part is the pivot detent. You can make a tool out of a dowel. I have a trigger and hammer pin slave pin, and that make putting in the trigger group really simple. It came with a ssa-e trigger.
    Hurley's Gold
     

    RstyShcklfrd

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    Mar 23, 2011
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    That pivot detent nearly made me pull my hair out, as well as the roll pin for the bolt catch and trigger guard.

    No special AR tools used here. I'll need to get a hold of an AR15 wrench so I can tighten that castle nut on the buffer tube, but I have a Magpul sling attachment coming in, so I'll do that after.
     

    johnpuga1982

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    Mar 8, 2012
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    San Antonio
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1337744075.433616.jpg

    Easy little tap if you decide to do it.
     

    Big country

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    Mar 6, 2009
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    Cedar Park,TX
    Is there a special punch for that or will a plain old punch do it? I'm going to be attempting to put an ASAP on tomorrow or the next day.

    tap talked from a phone yeah im on my phone! it's crazy!
     

    johnpuga1982

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    Mar 8, 2012
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    Some people use a spring loaded punch, others just a punch and a hammer. Some people say one stake is enough and others say two stakes is better.

    I would say be certain of your end plate before staking.
     

    RstyShcklfrd

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    Mar 23, 2011
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    That's why I was debating just using some Loctite. With the way my mind has changed over the past 7 pages, nothing is ever permanent with me. lmao.
     

    LS1Nut

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    Jul 28, 2011
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    San Antonio
    It doesnt need staked.. doesnt even NEED loctite, but throw alittle blue on there if just for a warm fuzzy feeling, like M. said ^^ tighten it down correctly, it wont go anywhere.. you'll appreciate NOT staking it if you ever wanna switch stuff out back there. I am a big fan of making NOTHING permanent on an AR.. to many changes to make and new parts coming out everyday..
     

    TheDan

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    Nov 11, 2008
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    Do you believe that to be true for the carrier key bolts as well?
    I did say generally The carrier is subject to quite a bit more vibration. In addition to that, they were designed to not really be torqued at all but held in place with staking. The spec is 35-40in-lbs, which translates to about 3ft-lbs. That's nothing really. I bet if it had been engineered to be torqued to 80ft-lbs it wouldn't need to be staked, lol...
     

    M. Sage

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    Jan 21, 2009
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    I did say generally The carrier is subject to quite a bit more vibration. In addition to that, they were designed to not really be torqued at all but held in place with staking. The spec is 35-40in-lbs, which translates to about 3ft-lbs. That's nothing really. I bet if it had been engineered to be torqued to 80ft-lbs it wouldn't need to be staked, lol...

    LOL, they're not really hefty screws, hence the "low" torque spec.

    But the buffer tube isn't seeing insane amounts of vibration or torque. No reason to stake or Loctite.
     

    Younggun

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    Jul 31, 2011
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    When I swapped stocks around I loosened and tightened with a punch and hammer, not pretty but hasn't loosened up yet. No staking, no locktight. I recommend the proper tool if you care about the finish...
     

    M. Sage

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    Jan 21, 2009
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    I did mine with a punch and hammer. If you're careful not to slip and don't try to really crank the castle nut down further than you should, there's no problem with the finish.
     

    Younggun

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    Mine was originally staked from S&W, took a little "persuading" to get it lose.
     
    Every Day Man
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