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Thread: 300 blackout

  1. #1
    Senior Member country_boy's Avatar
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    300 blackout

    Ok some members asked if I would post how to reload for the 300 blackout round. I can post pictures later, but its simple once you know.

    First You'll need the dies, Lee, redding, and forester makes a set. For the money I went with lee and they work just fine.
    Second, You'll need a trim guide pin from lee or a 30 cal pilot(depending on what your method of trimming is).
    Third You'll need brass.. Either 221 fireball or 223/556 if the brass has a split neck thats fine, as you wont need the neck.

    Now take the brass and cut the neck off(just below it). Dont go too low on the brass just right above the neck. I first used a pipe cutter on the test run but, I found the mini chop saw from harbor freight works perfect for this. A dremel or even a hacksaw will work if thats all you got. Also dillon sells their trimmer die system and a guy on the net sells the 300 black out trim die.


    The case length for this round is 1.368
    Overall length is 2.26 MAX SAAMI
    Small rifle primer
    Bullet diameter is .308

    Ok after you have cut the necks off the brass, set your sizing die by raising the ram all the way up and screw the die in till it touches the shell holder. Lube the brass and resize like a normal die. You'll end up with necked up brass. Trim the brass to 1.368 with your trimmer and your done.

    Bullets range from 110 to 208 grain.

    Do yall need the load data?
    Proud LIFE NRA and TSRA member that wears a brown stetson. :texas:

    Shelter me Lord, with my saiga 12!

    I am the chicom commbloc rifle expert in central texas, so says Big Country

    Smarter than the average redneck!

  2. #2
    Senior Member Mikewood's Avatar
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    Re: 300 blackout

    Quick question.
    When you cut the neck off what is a safe OAL to cut at and them have a reasonable pre trim length?
    Does the brass "grow" or lengthen when you run it thru the forming die?
    Can you simply form the 5.56 brass and then trim to max length or is the "chop saw" required?
    Thanks.

  3. #3
    Senior Member country_boy's Avatar
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    Re: 300 blackout

    Youll cut right under where the neck ends. I will form another and see if grows but, thats why I cut right under the neck that way your safe.

    I first tried forming it without cutting and it doesnt work that 22 is way too small. But heres what you can do. Just cut the 22 part off leave the neck, form it then trim.
    Proud LIFE NRA and TSRA member that wears a brown stetson. :texas:

    Shelter me Lord, with my saiga 12!

    I am the chicom commbloc rifle expert in central texas, so says Big Country

    Smarter than the average redneck!

  4. #4
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    Re: 300 blackout

    Quote Originally Posted by Mikewood View Post
    Quick question.
    When you cut the neck off what is a safe OAL to cut at and them have a reasonable pre trim length?
    Does the brass "grow" or lengthen when you run it thru the forming die?
    Can you simply form the 5.56 brass and then trim to max length or is the "chop saw" required?
    Thanks.
    You have to cut the neck off first otherwise the .30 caliber neck button will not fit inside a .22 caliber neck.

    A more expensive but faster way is to get a forming die from C&H, and use a Dillon trimmer. On my Dillon 650 I can turn .223 brass into .300 BLK brass as fast as I can pull the handle.
    Μολὼν λαβέ

  5. #5
    Senior Member country_boy's Avatar
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    Re: 300 blackout

    Thats on my wish list after I get my tax return
    Proud LIFE NRA and TSRA member that wears a brown stetson. :texas:

    Shelter me Lord, with my saiga 12!

    I am the chicom commbloc rifle expert in central texas, so says Big Country

    Smarter than the average redneck!

  6. #6
    Moderator scap99's Avatar
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    Re: 300 blackout

    Thanks for starting this thread.
    I'm going to have to look into that Dillon/C&H setup.

  7. #7
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    Re: 300 blackout

    I've got both the CH die and the Whidden die that is being sold online here:

    Trim dies BradsWarehouse.com - Custom made 300 AAC Blackout Brass

    I'll tell you right off the bat that the windows on the Whidden die are like portholes compared to the CH die. Having run them, the CH die is much easier to keep clean with the 1200B since there is very little place for the trimmings to get caught. Just something to keep in mind when buying dies. There was some discussion about whether CH was using the right specs and when I spoke with them, they confirmed they are and mark the die 300BLK now to denote that. FWIW

  8. #8
    Moderator scap99's Avatar
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    Re: 300 blackout

    I was browsing that website, earlier. I might just buy some brass off of him until things saturate the market a bit more. I picked up two more boxes of Remington 220gr yesterday, so I am getting a decent stock pile of factory once fired ( or almost fired ) in my collection.

    I definitely want to have my Dillon 650 set up to load for this one, since it's going to be a high volume round for me.

  9. #9
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    Re: 300 blackout

    I'm trying to decide if I want to process brass for customers or not, those prices are a bit high based on material and labor costs. I only bought the dies to test out the setup but I'm thinking long and hard about it given the 300AAC is a SAAMI spec now.

  10. #10
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    Re: 300 blackout


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